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Since your problems occur only during "closed" loop operation, have you considered your O2 sensors ? (even though no codes are thrown in this direction) ......
I'm really watching this because I'm having similar issues.
I've changed/done about everything mentioned here already. Mine doesn't run that warm though. It just seems to have to run for about 10-15 minutes and then it starts. It's more of a lope when it is in drive sitting still. Turning the AC on makes it stop. It doesn't idle bad when in neutral. Sometimes changing a part seems to fix it but it just comes back later on.
BTW, What you describe is EXACTLY what mine has. Like I say, I have plugs, opti, cap, rotor, and wires sitting here in the same room with me. I just haven't gotten out there to put any of it in yet. It would seem proper that mine would be the opti since I know that I got mine wet once. Car barely ran for about a day and then started clearing up to where it is now.
BTW, What you describe is EXACTLY what mine has. Like I say, I have plugs, opti, cap, rotor, and wires sitting here in the same room with me. I just haven't gotten out there to put any of it in yet. It would seem proper that mine would be the opti since I know that I got mine wet once. Car barely ran for about a day and then started clearing up to where it is now.
To be honest, I've replaced almost every thing I can that may be causing this except the opti. That I know of anyway. I went through 2 cans of Either looking for vacuum leaks. I found one around the IAC because the O ring had cracked. Fixed that and it seemed to help for a while then it returned. I did have the PCM reprogrammed for performance. I'd like to get my hands on another ECM just to make sure it's not that before tackling the opti. The car runs fine, it's just irritating at stop lights and such.
To be honest, I've replaced almost every thing I can that may be causing this except the opti. That I know of anyway. I went through 2 cans of Either looking for vacuum leaks. I found one around the IAC because the O ring had cracked. Fixed that and it seemed to help for a while then it returned. I did have the PCM reprogrammed for performance. I'd like to get my hands on another ECM just to make sure it's not that before tackling the opti. The car runs fine, it's just irritating at stop lights and such.
May sound silly but tap on your MAF with the handle of a screwdriver. Do the same with the MAP and IAC. Sometimes it's the dumbest things that will help. One other thing that I can think of would be the brake booster or the inline vacuum diode.
After the engine has reached operating temp. to exhibit problem, have you tried unplugging 1 injector at a time ? I know you have replaced them from FIC, but you never know..You may have a "dripper" at idle. Turning the AC on bumps up your idle to compensate for slight power drop, and this may be enough to mask the lower RPM hiccup.
May sound silly but tap on your MAF with the handle of a screwdriver. Do the same with the MAP and IAC. Sometimes it's the dumbest things that will help. One other thing that I can think of would be the brake booster or the inline vacuum diode.
First off I want to apologize to the OP. I didn't mean to hijack this thread. I was just going to listen. Perhaps some of this has helped him though.
I'll give these a shot. That would be something wouldn't it!
Originally Posted by MikeC4
After the engine has reached operating temp. to exhibit problem, have you tried unplugging 1 injector at a time ? I know you have replaced them from FIC, but you never know..You may have a "dripper" at idle. Turning the AC on bumps up your idle to compensate for slight power drop, and this may be enough to mask the lower RPM hiccup.
How many miles are on your Opti ??
No I haven't tried unplugging them....at least not this set anyway. I did on the Bosch III's I had though. No difference.