C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

'94 LT1 hard to start - help

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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 05:03 PM
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Default '94 LT1 hard to start - help

My '94 with 116k miles on it started acting funny recently. When I go to start it in the morning it's fine, but after it's been running (even after sitting for a few hours) it's hard to start. It acts like the timing is way retarded because it's turning over fast and starts spinning up faster but never quite getting where it needs to be. Takes a good 5-8 seconds to start. I'm pretty sure this is a coincedence, but it started doing this immediately after I took it to get two new tires on so my first thought was that the guys jacked it up and crushed a fuel line or something but I got under and didn't see any problems. Any insights?

Thanks.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 05:13 PM
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Have the ICM tested. It is possible for it to behave diiferently when it warms up. The ICM is located just above the coil. O'reillys can test these.
93cruiser
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 12:15 PM
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Pressure check your fuel system. You might also have a leaking injector(s).
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 12:28 PM
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Or a leaking fuel pressure regulator(starting to sound like a broken record). They tend to rupture the diaphragms and let the vacuum source draw fuel into the intake. Pull the vacuum line, plug the intake side, and start it a few times. You should see the quick restart return and no doubt some fuel from the vacuum line connected to the regulator.

G/L
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Old Dec 22, 2008 | 02:59 PM
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Originally Posted by onedef92
Pressure check your fuel system. You might also have a leaking injector(s).
get a FP gauge on there and check that you have adequate pressure, I can't remember but I am thinking around 40psi.

You should first check for error codes. Easy procedure you can do yourself. There are so many things that can cause problems like this, and your computer can store a plethora of error information. All you need is a short piece of wire to short 2 of your ALDL pins together, and error codes will display on dash:

http://www.corvettebuyers.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

How doe's the engine run once you get it going? Any change in performance now as opposed to when you did not have this long cranking problem?

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Old Dec 25, 2008 | 11:11 PM
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Update?

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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 12:00 PM
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Hi, have a similar problem, is it fixed now?
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 12:55 PM
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Originally Posted by ukpete
Hi, have a similar problem, is it fixed now?
Yea me too. Was the opti
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 01:33 PM
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Wow, CF never sends me updates for some reason that there were more posts. I just checked the module and it was good (at least at that moment). Since it's an intermittent problem I wouldn't be surprised if it was at fault though. Guess I'll check fuel pressure now. I'd be surprised if that is the problem though since I can turn the key and let the pump stop and it'll still do it.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 01:35 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
get a FP gauge on there and check that you have adequate pressure, I can't remember but I am thinking around 40psi.

You should first check for error codes. Easy procedure you can do yourself. There are so many things that can cause problems like this, and your computer can store a plethora of error information. All you need is a short piece of wire to short 2 of your ALDL pins together, and error codes will display on dash:

http://www.corvettebuyers.com/c4vettes/codes.htm

How doe's the engine run once you get it going? Any change in performance now as opposed to when you did not have this long cranking problem?

Engine runs fine now as well as then. No change there. Will go pull codes now.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:04 PM
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No codes thrown. What is the correct procedure to test the fuel system for either a leaking fuel pressure regulator or leaking fuel injector (I assume it will be pressure fuel system and see if pressure drops in some time x).

Thanks.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 02:12 PM
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Originally Posted by cresus
No codes thrown. What is the correct procedure to test the fuel system for either a leaking fuel pressure regulator or leaking fuel injector (I assume it will be pressure fuel system and see if pressure drops in some time x).

Thanks.
Put a gage on the schrade valve

Turn the key on check pressure

Turn the key off watch the gage see if it falls and how fast

or you can just smell the FPR vacuum line for gas if you smell it it is toast.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 04:27 PM
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Ok. Checked fuel pressure. Turn the ignition to on (not running) and pressure pegs to 40psi. Turn off and it has lost about 10psi in 5 minutes. How do I determine where the leak in the system is? Is there a way to isolate whether or not it's the fuel pressure regulator or an injector?
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 04:45 PM
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Pull the vacuum line from the FPR if it smells like gas it is bad. If not then you need to pressurize the rail and pinch the line at the gas tank to eliminate the FP check valve if it still drops then it is probably a stuck injector.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 06:22 PM
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Originally Posted by cresus
Ok. Checked fuel pressure. Turn the ignition to on (not running) and pressure pegs to 40psi. Turn off and it has lost about 10psi in 5 minutes. How do I determine where the leak in the system is? Is there a way to isolate whether or not it's the fuel pressure regulator or an injector?
If your FPR checks out OK, it is very easy to pull your injectors and fuel rail off in one piece.

1) remove plastic injector covers on each side
2) remove fule rail retaining bolts
3) carefully wiggle fuel rail and injectors upward until all eight injectors pop out of their ports.
4) put something under fuel rail assembly to suspend it above intake
5) put glass container under each injector to catch fuel
6) Ignition on to prime system to 40psi
7) Ignition off ....... Observe to see which injector(s) are leaking fuel

Note: 10psi drop in 5 minutes is too much, something is bleeding down too fast, either injector(s) or FPR.

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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4

Note: 10psi drop in 5 minutes is too much, something is bleeding down too fast, either injector(s) or FPR.

Or FP check valve but in this case due to symptoms my bet is FPR.

You can use a 5 gal white bucket and stick the injector assembly into it to check for leakage short sweet and neat.
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Or FP check valve but in this case due to symptoms my bet is FPR.
What are the symptoms of a failed FPR? In my head, I'm able to convince myself it's a fuel injector due to it being hard to start after it's been sitting allowing fuel to drip into a cylinder. Is it because you're drawing fuel in through the vacuum hose?
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To '94 LT1 hard to start - help

Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by cresus
What are the symptoms of a failed FPR? In my head, I'm able to convince myself it's a fuel injector due to it being hard to start after it's been sitting allowing fuel to drip into a cylinder. Is it because you're drawing fuel in through the vacuum hose?
When the diaphram in the FPR ruptures fuel is pumped via the vacuum line into the intake after shut down. Since it is flooded at that point when you try to restart before the fuel evaporates it will spin up and almost fire for a few seconds. A leaking injector will act a little different but similar because 1 cylinder is flooded unless you have multiple injectors leaking. Very Rare
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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 07:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Redeasysport
Pull the vacuum line from the FPR if it smells like gas it is bad. If not then you need to pressurize the rail and pinch the line at the gas tank to eliminate the FP check valve if it still drops then it is probably a stuck injector.
Have done the vacuum "sniff" test on your FPR yet ??????

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Old Dec 30, 2008 | 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
Have done the vacuum "sniff" test on your FPR yet ??????

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