Torque plate
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 1
From: Zagreb, Croatia
Torque plate
I'm in process of gathering all the stuff needed to rebuild my
engine. Since SBC V8 engines are realy rare over here,
I'll have torque plate machined for my engine.
Do you have any suggestions on how thick should it be and
what bore size should I make on plate?
I'll bore block .020 over, but I'd like to be able to reuse this
plate for some future applications. Would it still work good
if I make it with 4.100 bores?
engine. Since SBC V8 engines are realy rare over here,
I'll have torque plate machined for my engine.
Do you have any suggestions on how thick should it be and
what bore size should I make on plate?
I'll bore block .020 over, but I'd like to be able to reuse this
plate for some future applications. Would it still work good
if I make it with 4.100 bores?
Racer
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 302
Likes: 0
From: South Haven Michigan
Are you talking about the plate that is bolted to the engine in place of the heads when the block is being bored & honed? If so, I would check with the machine shop you are planning on using as this isn't something you can use on your own, unless you have the boring machine or own the machine shop yourself. It will be pricey to make one I would think since it is a good chunk of metal and will need quite a bit of machining itself before it is usable. The ones I have seen are a couple inches thick and I don't think the diameter needs to match the block exactly.
This is probably a dumb question, but have you thought about importing a fully machined bare block? By the time you have the torque plate made and have all the machining done, it may not be all that much more money.
This is probably a dumb question, but have you thought about importing a fully machined bare block? By the time you have the torque plate made and have all the machining done, it may not be all that much more money.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
I'm in process of gathering all the stuff needed to rebuild my
engine. Since SBC V8 engines are realy rare over here,
I'll have torque plate machined for my engine.
Do you have any suggestions on how thick should it be and
what bore size should I make on plate?
I'll bore block .020 over, but I'd like to be able to reuse this
plate for some future applications. Would it still work good
if I make it with 4.100 bores?
engine. Since SBC V8 engines are realy rare over here,
I'll have torque plate machined for my engine.
Do you have any suggestions on how thick should it be and
what bore size should I make on plate?
I'll bore block .020 over, but I'd like to be able to reuse this
plate for some future applications. Would it still work good
if I make it with 4.100 bores?
Or, buy a BHJ used small block chevy torque plate off e-bay if it is easier.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 610
Likes: 1
The size isn't crucial. The concept is just to have all the head bolts torqued into place, thus deforming the block in a similar way to when it is fully assembled.
You aren't thinking about doing this by hand, are you? I'm not saying it can't be done but the likelihood of ending up with a set of ice cream cones is rather high.
You aren't thinking about doing this by hand, are you? I'm not saying it can't be done but the likelihood of ending up with a set of ice cream cones is rather high.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 1
From: Zagreb, Croatia
Originally Posted by M. Schumacher
The size isn't crucial. The concept is just to have all the head bolts torqued into place, thus deforming the block in a similar way to when it is fully assembled.
You aren't thinking about doing this by hand, are you? I'm not saying it can't be done but the likelihood of ending up with a set of ice cream cones is rather high.
You aren't thinking about doing this by hand, are you? I'm not saying it can't be done but the likelihood of ending up with a set of ice cream cones is rather high.
And no, I'm not doing it by myself. I have a friend who'll do it for me
on CNC machine. I just have to make a CAD drawing for him!
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 1
From: Zagreb, Croatia
Actually, now that you mentioned it, it's not a bad idea.
It looks like they sell for $100 plus on e-bay, and I'm sure that
I can have them done much cheaper.
We'll see.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 1
From: Zagreb, Croatia
Originally Posted by Pete K
Also, the BHJ plate are machined at the bolt holes to permit using the standard length bolts. Something you may want to change before you mill it.
This is what I found for bolt length:
3 3/4".......14 pieces
1 3/4".......16 pieces
3"..............4 pieces
This is for both heads. If I'm right, 4 middle length (3") ones are in middle row
on corners?!
One more thing. How much of thread goes into block?
If I make it 3/4", would it be enough?
.
Last edited by Sliding; Dec 28, 2008 at 11:03 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
I'd like to do it that way also , but I need a few infos for that.
This is what I found for bolt length:
3 3/4".......14 pieces
1 3/4".......16 pieces
3"..............4 pieces
This is for both heads. If I'm right, 4 middle length (3") ones are in middle row
on corners?!
One more thing. How much of thread goes into block?
If I make it 3/4", would it be enough?
.
I will get you the valve guide info this afterneen as well.
If all works well, sell me a plate perhaps?
Last edited by Pete K; Dec 28, 2008 at 11:09 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 1,625
Likes: 1
From: Zagreb, Croatia
You are correct. Middle row ends are the location for the medium bolts. I will measure a head deck thickness (to the spot where the bolt seats) when I head out to the garage. This way, you can have a ***** on number.
I will get you the valve guide info this afterneen as well.
If all works well, sell me a plate perhaps?
I will get you the valve guide info this afterneen as well.
If all works well, sell me a plate perhaps?
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
Likes: 19
You are correct. Middle row ends are the location for the medium bolts. I will measure a head deck thickness (to the spot where the bolt seats) when I head out to the garage. This way, you can have a ***** on number.
I will get you the valve guide info this afterneen as well.
If all works well, sell me a plate perhaps?
I will get you the valve guide info this afterneen as well.
If all works well, sell me a plate perhaps?
1/2 sounded a bit shallow, and my measurement confirms that.
Regarding the valve guide in the 113 head, I was unable to come up with a good measurement. The head I have does not have oem guides, but have oversized Brodix guides installed.
Sorry I did not come through on that measurement.
Drifting
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,360
Likes: 3
From: NORTHEAST
The BHJ plate we use on the 350 engines has a 4.075 bore and we have on for the bigger bore and we have the harden washers installed on all our plates we use.
And we have found a differance in cylinder disortion using different head gaskets and hardeware.
When guys measure cylinders the should measure with a plate or install a head and measure up from the bottom as cylinders should be round with the heads or plate on not round if the heads or plate if off!!!
We have done leak down tests on newly built engines and have seen 16% which is not good ring seal on a new engine!!
If they are not using a good hone it it should be bored and plate hone with a plate as the cheap hones with sone shoe that are 90 degrees apart do do much as rounding up cylinders, The Sunnen machine we use has one stone that is 10 degrees a head copared to the other stone which will true up a cylinder if you leave enough to hone out.
Last edited by BLOCKMAN; Dec 29, 2008 at 07:34 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,517
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If you go 4.200 thats fine if your using a 4.200 gasket but where its a 4.020 bore it would be a loose of good compression going to a 4.200 bore gasket.
The BHJ plate we use on the 350 engines has a 4.075 bore and we have on for the bigger bore and we have the harden washers installed on all our plates we use.
And we have found a differance in cylinder disortion using different head gaskets and hardeware.
When guys measure cylinders the should measure with a plate or install a head and measure up from the bottom as cylinders should be round with the heads or plate on not round if the heads or plate if off!!!
We have done leak down tests on newly built engines and have seen 16% which is not good ring seal on a new engine!!
If they are not using a good hone it it should be bored and plate hone with a plate as the cheap hones with sone shoe that are 90 degrees apart do do much as rounding up cylinders, The Sunnen machine we use has one stone that is 10 degrees a head copared to the other stone which will true up a cylinder if you leave enough to hone out.
The BHJ plate we use on the 350 engines has a 4.075 bore and we have on for the bigger bore and we have the harden washers installed on all our plates we use.
And we have found a differance in cylinder disortion using different head gaskets and hardeware.
When guys measure cylinders the should measure with a plate or install a head and measure up from the bottom as cylinders should be round with the heads or plate on not round if the heads or plate if off!!!
We have done leak down tests on newly built engines and have seen 16% which is not good ring seal on a new engine!!
If they are not using a good hone it it should be bored and plate hone with a plate as the cheap hones with sone shoe that are 90 degrees apart do do much as rounding up cylinders, The Sunnen machine we use has one stone that is 10 degrees a head copared to the other stone which will true up a cylinder if you leave enough to hone out.