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Hey guys, just need some quick help here. I finally got my hands on a good scanner and I've been tinkering with it...here's what I've got so far.
IAC at idle is ~144
tps is .50
maf is about 13g/s
My problem is that idle when cold is rough....first start of the morning always dies...have to use the throttle a little to keep it running for the first 15 seconds or so...car runs rich, always.
Now: I need some help with the numbers that I'm seeing. Blms, injectors pulses, etc. I need sense made out of them.
The two alarming things I have picked up are the O2 constantly toggles in and out of closed loop and goes back and forth from lean to rich quite often, and, no spark advance...None! not even at 6500 rpms!
Can someone shed some light? I would have posted in scan and tune, but that section has become pretty dead of late.
When you first start the car when cold it is in open loop. It ignores the O2 sensor. When it warms up some it goes into closed loop and reads the O2 sensor.
I think you need to adjust the screw for the throttle blades. Maybe turn it in a 1/4 of a turn and see what happens. Your IAC must be close to wide open at 144 steps. So when the car starts to stall and the computer wants to open the IAC some more there is no more.
It also could be the passages in the IAC circuit are dirty and need cleaning. Just some thoughts.
I actually believe my lack of spark advance is to blame for the rough running when cold. The IAC is brand new and everything is good and clean in there. Idle is already at 1200 in park and 850 in gear, don't want much higher than that.
Hey guys, just need some quick help here. I finally got my hands on a good scanner and I've been tinkering with it...here's what I've got so far.
IAC at idle is ~144
tps is .50
maf is about 13g/s
My problem is that idle when cold is rough....first start of the morning always dies...have to use the throttle a little to keep it running for the first 15 seconds or so...car runs rich, always.
Now: I need some help with the numbers that I'm seeing. Blms, injectors pulses, etc. I need sense made out of them.
The two alarming things I have picked up are the O2 constantly toggles in and out of closed loop and goes back and forth from lean to rich quite often, and, no spark advance...None! not even at 6500 rpms!
Can someone shed some light? I would have posted in scan and tune, but that section has become pretty dead of late.
Thanks!
Well man it would be better is we had all the parameters from your diagnostic. There is a lot of information there that would be helpful with these numbers.
I will guess that the car was warmed to operating temp. and at idle considering the TPS is at .50 volts. That presents some problems with the IAC count at 144. That shows that the Idle motor is wide open and trying to lean the system. The O2 should be "cross counting" it is representative that the ECM has fuel control. It will lengthen and shorten the injector pulse width and IAC to keep the O2 traveling between .200 volts and .800 volts as long as they are up to temp. This is the RICH/LEAN flag change that you are seeing. The mass air flow is high for idle. What is your idle speed? If you can take a capture of the engine at idle and at 2500RPM and post them. If you have to just write everything down JUST as it is shown on the tool.
As for the timing you need to verify that with a timing light and then check your EST connectors.
Hope some of that helps. Get me all the info and we'll be able to see what is going on.
I actually believe my lack of spark advance is to blame for the rough running when cold. The IAC is brand new and everything is good and clean in there. Idle is already at 1200 in park and 850 in gear, don't want much higher than that.
Is that idle where you set it or is it just happening?
There is a procedure for setting up the idle from scratch. I don't have the procedure handy but someone may have it. It involves setting the IAC to zero counts, disconnecting the computer timing and adjusting the throttle blade stop. Things may have gotten out of whack on your car.
There is a procedure for setting up the idle from scratch. I don't have the procedure handy but someone may have it. It involves setting the IAC to zero counts, disconnecting the computer timing and adjusting the throttle blade stop. Things may have gotten out of whack on your car.
Yeah this is common. Some you have to ground a terminal on the ALDL, others you just have to turn the ignition on and wait ten seconds.After the engine is at operating temp! At that point disconnect the IAC and the EST. Start the engine and wait for it to stabilize. At that point adjust the idle screw to factory idle spec. Shut the engine off and reconnect the EST and IAC. Start the engine and let it idle through two fan cycles(10-15min.) and you should be good. This is all easier if you have a diagnostic system and can monitor live data. That way you can watch your idle counts and just adjust to bring them back to 35-40counts at operating temp. idle.
Yep there is a procedure to install the IAC that must be followed for it to be set correctly. Probably in the FSM for his year.The IAC goes from 0-255 counts and should be ~30 at idle(at least it is on my car)
Ok guys I have a dumb question. What is a IAC and how does it work? Also what is EST& FSM? I am use to fuel injected alcohol Sprintcars these computer car stuff I'm just learning.
Ok guys I have a dumb question. What is a IAC and how does it work? Also what is EST& FSM? I am use to fuel injected alcohol Sprintcars these computer car stuff I'm just learning.
Okay
IAC - Idle Air Control motor. It is a variable polarity motor(can turn both ways) that is controlled by the computer. It has a small pintle on the end of it that is driven inwards or outwards depending on the direction the motor is turned. This pintle rests inside of a passage that goes around the throttle plates in the throttle body. The computer controls the position of the pintle in the passage to vary the amount of air the engine gets at idle. This in turn controls the engine speed and air fuel mixture(with the fuel injector pulse width).
EST - Is the Electronic Spark Timing. It is the computers method of controlling ignition timing.
start reading up on it:
rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean-rich-lean
is what you want. but it should stay in closed loop. try a heated sensor.
I thought it was the ECM's that dropped them out of closed loop at idle? That is to say that it was a time/temp thing and not the loss of o2 cross counts.
I guess this is why I am not programing chips
Last edited by BluRay; Dec 28, 2008 at 10:14 AM.
Reason: edit