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WAIT! If the car is that loud with no mufflers and gutted cats it may very well be tripping the knock sensor! you will get a code set most likely, but you can try disconnecting it and starting up the car.
When you say "get a code" what exactly do you mean? How do I see what code it is?
What I mean is that having the sensor disconnected may cause the ECM to set a code for the open circuit and turn on the SES light. No big deal it will just default the timing I believe. I have also experienced them not setting a code until certain load values are achieved.
Either way, disconnect the sensor and the negative battery post for a few minutes. Reconnect and start it up. see what happens
I took off the knock sensor plug and it seemed to help just a bit but not alot. I also replaced the fuel filter which helped just a bit. It is still doing the same. Seems like I am getting more rpms though. I cleaned the MAF again and still did not work right. It runs better with the mAf unplugged. I think I need a new one.
well there are a few options. As it was stated earlier you need to verify that your number 1 piston is at TDC when your timing mark says that it is. The balancers can slip. You need to verify fuel pressure and volume(it's not always just pressure), and then yes of course the MAF.
Think I just ran into a bigger problem... Noticed white smoke coming from the exhaust.Must be a head gasket.
yikes. could be but white is oil. What you are seeing may be steam. Check your oil to see if it is milky. Means there is water in it. Then after the car has cooled completely you can pull the radiator cap to see if there is carbon on top of the coolant.
Of course a compression test is one of the best ways to find out.
When you unplug the MAF your car goes into a "limp home mode" of sorts. Open loop. The car is running better because it is running on preset parameters when the MAF is unplugged. Your MAF is likely fine. I was going to say you might have a bad misfire or plug wires crossed or something of that nature. A bad head gasket could let so much coolant in the cylinders that they are misfiring and not letting your revs climb, but that would be a really bad blown headgasket. Possible though.
typically this is a sign of bad valve seals or a leaking intake manifold. The intake causing this is pretty rare but does happen. Also I have seen valve covers leak and run into the exhaust if it is not sealed well.
but hey, at least that makes a head gasket much less likely
Okay, so forget that. I am getting that the engine was just rebuilt. What went into the engine? Any not stock spec.? Where was it built? Wa it crate style fully assembled when you got it or did you have to assemble everything but the long block?
This is getting to the point that we need some background and fuller information
I got the car and the heads were on the short block and thats it. I had to put on the intake and above. It was rebuilt but was sitting for about 2 years. The only thing not to spec is the heads are a small dome and roller rockers.
I got the car and the heads were on the short block and thats it. I had to put on the intake and above. It was rebuilt but was sitting for about 2 years. The only thing not to spec is the heads are a small dome and roller rockers.
well sitting that long may have let the valve seals dry out. If they do not swell back up and seal you may end up having to replace them.
Better yet...tomorrow I will perform a leak down test on the coolants system. That should tell me if I have a cracked head, block, or head gasket right>?