Emissions problem 87 TPI
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Missouri
Emissions problem 87 TPI
I had an Intake manifold/oil pressure sender nightmare this summer and my vette has sat since then. Reason being is the guy I hired to come out and fix it tore up all of my vaccum lines and AIR(said i did not need it) and EGR. Since then i think i have become more of a competent mechanic to take care of the car myself, but lacking any of the AIR components, secondary catalytic converter and the EGR crossover pipe, I would rather just remove both AIR and EGR from the system and run minimal vacuum lines.
My problem lies in the fact I am confused on how to make my vette run properly(a little warm and a check engine light is fine) with no secondary catalytic converter, no AIR and no EGR. Is there a vacuum diagram I can follow for this process? Is it just straight forward block off plates and cap the secondary vacuum source? Thanks in advance!
My problem lies in the fact I am confused on how to make my vette run properly(a little warm and a check engine light is fine) with no secondary catalytic converter, no AIR and no EGR. Is there a vacuum diagram I can follow for this process? Is it just straight forward block off plates and cap the secondary vacuum source? Thanks in advance!
Pro
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: Lubbock for now, headed for Oklahoma
well you will need an air pump delete kit if you plan on removing the pump. I would put the EGR system back together as there are not a lot of components and it is better to have it on the car.
Actually if you have most of everything left I would just get a service manual for it and put all of it back on. Your engine light being on effects all kinds of things in your car. It's not just a glowing bulb in the dash. With as much work and parts that are required to delete all these things you would probably be better off by all means to just put it back as it should be.
If your interested in doing this there are several very well versed people on this board that could nearly walk you through it on that car. My experience on the 80's Vettes is not as good as many of these guys, but most of them would agree I think that you are better off to just put it back where it belongs.
Actually if you have most of everything left I would just get a service manual for it and put all of it back on. Your engine light being on effects all kinds of things in your car. It's not just a glowing bulb in the dash. With as much work and parts that are required to delete all these things you would probably be better off by all means to just put it back as it should be.
If your interested in doing this there are several very well versed people on this board that could nearly walk you through it on that car. My experience on the 80's Vettes is not as good as many of these guys, but most of them would agree I think that you are better off to just put it back where it belongs.
Team Owner
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 34,873
Likes: 487
From: Lacey WA RVN 68-69
NCM Sinkhole Donor
Deleting the AIR pump and EGR will not really give you a lot of increase in HP and torque and deleting the EGR will set the CEL and set an error code. The ECM will react to that and may cause the car to run worse.
Also removal of the main cat, AIR pump, and EGR will cause you to fail anybody's emission test. If you need a sniffer or visual test to get your plates renewed, you will fail.
Removal of the AIR pump requires that you get a removal kit so that the serp belt will sit more or less in the factory position. The belt will rub against itself between the alternator and PS pulley hubs if you don't.
If you don't have a Factory Service Manual (FSM) you should get the set of books. You can sometimes find them in the C4 Parts For Sale section, on eBay or going to www.helminc.com and buying a set.
BTW, it's a good idea to fill out your profile to include describing your car (year, model and tranny type) along with where you live in your profile. You could find that other members live nearby and might be able to help you out with problems.
Also removal of the main cat, AIR pump, and EGR will cause you to fail anybody's emission test. If you need a sniffer or visual test to get your plates renewed, you will fail.
Removal of the AIR pump requires that you get a removal kit so that the serp belt will sit more or less in the factory position. The belt will rub against itself between the alternator and PS pulley hubs if you don't.
If you don't have a Factory Service Manual (FSM) you should get the set of books. You can sometimes find them in the C4 Parts For Sale section, on eBay or going to www.helminc.com and buying a set.
BTW, it's a good idea to fill out your profile to include describing your car (year, model and tranny type) along with where you live in your profile. You could find that other members live nearby and might be able to help you out with problems.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Missouri
the AIR system and pump ect ive figured out on my own.
Third I would like to hear from someone WHO HAS ACTUALLY REMOVED THEIR EGR SYSTEM not people telling me to keep mine and how THEY ran their vacuum lines. If you read my previous post you would notice I am missing certain parts and would just rather delete it since I have emissions exemption and a chip burner/tunercat. Thank you in advance.
Third I would like to hear from someone WHO HAS ACTUALLY REMOVED THEIR EGR SYSTEM not people telling me to keep mine and how THEY ran their vacuum lines. If you read my previous post you would notice I am missing certain parts and would just rather delete it since I have emissions exemption and a chip burner/tunercat. Thank you in advance.
Last edited by im2gq4u; Dec 29, 2008 at 09:54 AM.
Pro
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 658
Likes: 0
From: Lubbock for now, headed for Oklahoma
the AIR system and pump ect ive figured out on my own.
Third I would like to hear from someone WHO HAS ACTUALLY REMOVED THEIR EGR SYSTEM not people telling me to keep mine and how THEY ran their vacuum lines. If you read my previous post you would notice I am missing certain parts and would just rather delete it since I have emissions exemption and a chip burner/tunercat. Thank you in advance.
Third I would like to hear from someone WHO HAS ACTUALLY REMOVED THEIR EGR SYSTEM not people telling me to keep mine and how THEY ran their vacuum lines. If you read my previous post you would notice I am missing certain parts and would just rather delete it since I have emissions exemption and a chip burner/tunercat. Thank you in advance.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 20
Likes: 0
From: Springfield Missouri
well, just finished up and took her around for a lunch run.
Thanks guys, running without EGR, AIR or CAT on a 2 1/2 back from the manifolds. I have not eliminated EGR from the computer system yet and on the AIR pump I used the smash method and now...its an idler haha!
The car previously on the Gtech(I know not accurate) put down 211 for horsepower. Today after EGR it put down 214...probably not a gain since it is colder now then before when I ran it on the Gtech, but does not seem to be down on power after driving for 30 plus minutes in a variety of conditions. Car runs the same as before, no stuttering or overly warm operation on highway or city driving(about 15 miles highway, 10 miles city one way to lunch) No CELs, nothing. Id like to say it actually has better throttle response, but that is probably just placebo effect from not driving it for a while. Looks like its time to let the top back and enjoy the 40 degree weather! HAHA
cliffs notes: Eliminated EGR and AIR the free/low cost(fab own blockoff plates) way and nothing went wrong on startup and driving. My car may be different somehow, do at your own risk.
Thanks guys, running without EGR, AIR or CAT on a 2 1/2 back from the manifolds. I have not eliminated EGR from the computer system yet and on the AIR pump I used the smash method and now...its an idler haha!
The car previously on the Gtech(I know not accurate) put down 211 for horsepower. Today after EGR it put down 214...probably not a gain since it is colder now then before when I ran it on the Gtech, but does not seem to be down on power after driving for 30 plus minutes in a variety of conditions. Car runs the same as before, no stuttering or overly warm operation on highway or city driving(about 15 miles highway, 10 miles city one way to lunch) No CELs, nothing. Id like to say it actually has better throttle response, but that is probably just placebo effect from not driving it for a while. Looks like its time to let the top back and enjoy the 40 degree weather! HAHA
cliffs notes: Eliminated EGR and AIR the free/low cost(fab own blockoff plates) way and nothing went wrong on startup and driving. My car may be different somehow, do at your own risk.
Last edited by im2gq4u; Dec 29, 2008 at 03:06 PM. Reason: forgot some cliffs
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Corvette Engines RANKED by Peak Torque (70+ Years of Muscle!)
Joe Kucinski
Corvette ZR1X Will Be Pacing the Indy 500, And Could Probably Race, Too!
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Corvettes Coming to Mecum Indy 2026!
Brett Foote
Top 10 C9 Corvette MUST-HAVES to Fix These C8 Generation Flaws!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Revolutionary 'Corvette Firsts' Most People Don't Know
Joe Kucinski
5 Reasons to Upgrade to an LS6-Powered Corvette; 5 Reasons to Stay LT2
Michael S. Palmer
2027 Corvette vs The World: Every C8 vs Its Closest Competitor
Joe Kucinski
10 Most Common Corvette Problems of the Last 20 Years!
Joe Kucinski
