When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Need some help, I recently purchased a 1986 C4 that has sat for the last 7 years. I have a whole host of things that I need to fix but the problem at hand is weak breaks. I have bled and replaced the brake fluid. I have clean fluid at each caliper. When you depress the break it is firm but you can hear air inside the car when you depress the pedal. I did not hear anything near the master cylinder though when depressing the brake. I also did not find any vacuum leaks. Any ideas out there?
I did that but no luck, the large line that attaches to the front top of the power booster could be a little tighter but I dont think its leaking. Is it possible to have the air/vacum leak on the inside of the car?
I did that but no luck, the large line that attaches to the front top of the power booster could be a little tighter but I dont think its leaking. Is it possible to have the air/vacum leak on the inside of the car?
Not sure. But is there a vacuum line to control heat AC controls inside?
I didnt know about the check valve, would you happen to have a picture or an idea on where it is? When I bled the brakes I went from the RR LR RF LF in that sequence.
I didnt know about the check valve, would you happen to have a picture or an idea on where it is? When I bled the brakes I went from the RR LR RF LF in that sequence.
That's old school...longest runs first....that is how I used to do them on non ABS applications too. The factory service manual recommends:
RF
RR
LR
LF
A little brake booster woosh is normal inside with heavy/quick pedal pressure. Is the pedal really hard to depress and the car won't slow quickly?
Rodger, looks like I need to bleed them again. The answer is no and yes. The pedal feels fine when you depress it but the car does not slow very quickly.
One other thing. Make sure you do NOT use silicone brake fluid in your brake system. If your pedal is very firm and hard to push, you do have a master cylinder beginning to go bad.
I used Dot 4 fluid but the pedal isnt difficult to push. If I compare the feel to other cars that I have and have driven it is about the same. The only difference is how poorly the car wants to stop. I am leaning twards something wrong with the booster. I will look at the check valve first and see if it is working. Do the boosters themselves go bad very often?
I used Dot 4 fluid but the pedal isnt difficult to push. If I compare the feel to other cars that I have and have driven it is about the same. The only difference is how poorly the car wants to stop. I am leaning twards something wrong with the booster. I will look at the check valve first and see if it is working. Do the boosters themselves go bad very often?
I had a bad booster about 5 years back in my '89 had to do the ol' pull on the steering wheel routine to get the car to stop...changed it no more problems. I think your going to want to put type 3 fluid in there instead of the 4.
I used Dot 4 fluid but the pedal isnt difficult to push. If I compare the feel to other cars that I have and have driven it is about the same. The only difference is how poorly the car wants to stop. I am leaning twards something wrong with the booster. I will look at the check valve first and see if it is working. Do the boosters themselves go bad very often?
Okay, if your pedal doesn't feel difficult to push or spongey or anything else out of the ordinary, then your problem is more than likely your brake pads. There are different grades of brakes pads out there. Try a more aggressive pad and see how the brakes feel. It wouldn't hurt to go ahead and put new rotors on as well, since the car has sat for so long.
I didnt know about the check valve, would you happen to have a picture or an idea on where it is? When I bled the brakes I went from the RR LR RF LF in that sequence.
The check valve is the little plastic doohickey on the booster that the vacuum line attaches to. It just pushes into a grommet on the booster. They only cost a few bucks to replace if they go bad.