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I have had a LT4 w/a Hot Cam in my 64 GS that I have been building for a few yrs, start it up once a week, warm it up to 210 and let it run a while changing the revs. All has been well to include a very smooth idle. Last week while the car was warming up, the car began to idle rough and then stopped. I thought maybe the fuel cell was reading incorrectly and added 2 more gallons of fuel. Still it brfly starts and has a very bad idle, almost a back fire. I have 40psi at the fuel rails, all the wires are snug and nothing appears to be loose or burned. Extremely frustrated since I am just an interior and bleed the brakes from getting this on the road.
I have had a LT4 w/a Hot Cam in my 64 GS that I have been building for a few yrs, start it up once a week, warm it up to 210 and let it run a while changing the revs. All has been well to include a very smooth idle. Last week while the car was warming up, the car began to idle rough and then stopped. I thought maybe the fuel cell was reading incorrectly and added 2 more gallons of fuel. Still it brfly starts and has a very bad idle, almost a back fire. I have 40psi at the fuel rails, all the wires are snug and nothing appears to be loose or burned. Extremely frustrated since I am just an interior and bleed the brakes from getting this on the road.
I trust it's been garage kept? If that's the case it shouldn't be your opti, which is where most people are gonna point their fingers. Was the LT4 brand new or used? If it was used it could be the opti, but I would check the IAC first. If it's sticking it can cause all kinds of idle problems. Also what about the tune? A MAF car should pretty much tune itself for a cam as mild as the hot cam, but running it no more than you have been it's possible that the plugs are fouled.
I would unplug the IAC and then try to start it. It should start and run with a very high idle, but it should be smooth. If it does, the IAC is your culprit, clean it up and then have the PCM relearn it. If it still doesn't want to run, or runs rough, you're back to the basics, fuel and spark. It could be anything from a bad coil to junk in your injectors.
fair enough thanks, will not get to it until the weekend. The hotcam and motor have been in the car running like this for 2 yrs. I let it warm up then bring the revs up and down.
fair enough thanks, will not get to it until the weekend. The hotcam and motor have been in the car running like this for 2 yrs. I let it warm up then bring the revs up and down.
What I was curious about was if the engine was fresh from the crate or if it came from another running car? If it came from a car there could be a buildup of gunk on the IAC, the opti could be worn, rusted, etc, etc. If it was brand new in a crate and has been garage kept, I would doubt either of these would be a problem.
It came from my wrecked 96, I tore it all apart all was well. It has 20k on it No build up of anything anywhere. The opti and the area around it is very dry.
Thanks
It came from my wrecked 96, I tore it all apart all was well. It has 20k on it No build up of anything anywhere. The opti and the area around it is very dry.
Thanks
Unless you actually took the IAC off of the throttle body and cleaned it, it may be gummed up. Mine acted fine for years and then suddenly started giving me problems. I guess it finally got just the right amount of gunk in there.
Ok new plugs and cleaned the IAC but still will not idle and will back fire a bit as well. As I mentioned in the opening thread, the car although sitting in the garage would start right up, idle smooth and when warmed I would run the revs up to 2-4k and even blipped it once or twice to 5500k. Well it was idling smooth then just sputtered then stopped. Thought the fuel was low so I added 2 more gallons but I am still **** out of luck. All wires are on solid.
2 things The ICM has been know to work OK till warm then crap out what temp is it cutting out at? Regardless of the mileage opti's can go bad at any time. Start checking for loss of spark clean all connectors to ignition parts. Are you able to pull the codes from the PCM?
I will try to pull the codes, its a PCM for Less ECM so its an OBD I with a OBD II connection. I am going to drain the fuel cell, maybe since I keep the fuel low all the time condensation got in it and I have some H2O in the cell. Long.... shot but. For it to be idling fine then just crap out I am hoping its not the OPTI. I will also check the resistance of the fuel injectors and they too could be gummy. Last it does not idle at all. Still hoping to roll it out this March
I drained the fuel and added a new batch thinking I may have some bad fuel. It will not even light off, still good fuel pressure at the rails, close to 50 and when it was turning and sputtering it was moving around idicating the injectors were firing. Every now and then during the past 2 yrs just warming the car up and moving the revs around I would get a rough idle. Ok sl I crawled under the car again and the water pump has a leak in the front, ok it looks like it is leaning twds the opti. How can I test the opti, and is the MSD opti better? I will check the codes next week, need to borrow a scanner. Ign Coil is another option as well. If its the opti I will finish the interior etc then dive into the engine. At this point I am almost ready to convert to a carb and distributor but not yet. Thanks,
I drained the fuel and added a new batch thinking I may have some bad fuel. It will not even light off, still good fuel pressure at the rails, close to 50 and when it was turning and sputtering it was moving around idicating the injectors were firing. Every now and then during the past 2 yrs just warming the car up and moving the revs around I would get a rough idle. Ok sl I crawled under the car again and the water pump has a leak in the front, ok it looks like it is leaning twds the opti. How can I test the opti, and is the MSD opti better? I will check the codes next week, need to borrow a scanner. Ign Coil is another option as well. If its the opti I will finish the interior etc then dive into the engine. At this point I am almost ready to convert to a carb and distributor but not yet. Thanks,
The only thing that will show are codes 16&36 if the electronics are bad in the opti. Sometimes no codes if the cap or rotor is the issue. Personally for your engine I do not think the extra cost of the MSD is warranted. You have the improved design Opti and seal the cap and around the plug with permatex and you should be good. Carb and Dizzy are just more money EFI & Opti work great when they are working much better than Carbs.
Thanks ,I think I will disconnect the MAF sensor and see if that may be it. Also I am seeing if the engine enters a clear flood and does not reset that could also be an issue.
I wanted to close the loop on this. I went out to start tearing into the car to replace the opti and H2o pump and tried one more time to start it. It started right up and ran like a champ. There is fluid under the h2o pump and yes ithe opti has time to dry so I will replace the pump, and the rotor and cap with the MSD one.
however, now when the car is hot it does not want to idle well and will cut off and if I un hook the MAF it smooths out and runs well through out all RPM's. I have this issue on another thread, but if you have the answetr I would be happy to hear it. I have tested for codes and none pop up.
however, now when the car is hot it does not want to idle well and will cut off and if I un hook the MAF it smooths out and runs well through out all RPM's. I have this issue on another thread, but if you have the answetr I would be happy to hear it. I have tested for codes and none pop up.
If you unhook MAF and it runs fine sounds like a bad MAF? That's a classic sign of a toasted MAF.