Hi all,

Hypothetically, if I were to try and fix this clutch grinding noise myself, I see these instructions:
Step 1) Remove battery negative cable. No problem.
Step 2) Remove entire exhaust system. Yikes.

When it says 'entire exhaust system' what does that entail? Detaching cats from flanges or something, or the actual exhaust manifold from the sides of the engine? I haven't gotten underneath the car yet to see what I have in store for me, but just wanted to know what needs to come off for step 2.

 

You may be able to rent a "U-haul" car trailer for just a few $ a day. You can drive your vette up on there so you don't have to worry about get crushed by the car....and it will give you extra wiggle room to move around, bust you knuckles and throw things.

The reason they are telling you to remove you exaust is because the "C" is what supports the tail end of your transmission....and you need part of the exaust removed so that you can unbolt the "C" beam. You may not have to remove the whole exaust system or even the entire "C" beam....just the parts that cover or bolt to the tranny itself.

 

I replaced the clutch in my garage. Using two sets of 6 tons jack stands you will have enough space to DIY. I would recommend to remove everything pass the manifolds/headers. You'll have more space. To remove the C-Beams is easier than you expect, looks impossible but is not. Now would be a good time to install a short shifter with a T-Handle, rear seal, new U-joints, differential drain plug and a Cat-Back system.

Fill up the ZF with Castrol TWS

Replacing the clutch was easier than installing headers.






Good Luck

Please get help, I did it by myself and almost got myself another hernia

 

All you have to remove is the cat-back. Should be about 8 bolts. If memory serves it's slip fit on one side, and a flange on the other. Be prepared for the ones up near the cats to be rusted solid. I would suggest that you soak them in pb blaster, or nut cracker for about a year and a half before you start, and even at that, expect to break them. On a factory cat back you might have to remove the rear muffler hangers too, 4 more bolts.


Once that is done, your next hardest thing will be getting the C-beam or torque arm as some people call it out. All I can tell you there is good luck. Once that is out, the driveshaft comes out like any other. Then finally the trans will come out. If you open the hood and disconnect the intake duct, the engine will rock back on it's mounts and tilt backwards when you remove the c-beam. Once the driveshaft is removed this tilting backwards will allow the transmission to tilt back and start spilling fluid everywhere. It would be a good time to drain / change the trans fluid anyway. I'm sure having the engine tilt back with the weight of the trans hanging off of it isn't that good for it, so you may want to have a jack under the rear of the trans to keep it level. From there trans removal is very simple.

They key, get the car high enough off the ground to start with and if you can find one, rent a transmission jack! The ZF weighs a ton.