When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I have brake fluid leaking slightly from where the master cylinder fastens to the booster. Bolts are tight. Is there a gasket there? Can't seem to see it in the FSM. Any ideas
If if is just the seals....sNAPA sells a master cylinder rebuild kit for ~$20. Other wise your looking at a new MC. Bench bleed the MC and bolt her back on.
I would just go and buy a new one, its an easy job... Like the other guy said, bench bleed the Master Cylinder then make sure to bleed each brake also!
I would just go and buy a new one, its an easy job... Like the other guy said, bench bleed the Master Cylinder then make sure to bleed each brake also!
OK, I found the info on bleeding the brakes. Think I can handle this, although I am fairly new at this. Also it says to flush the system when new parts are installed. How would I do that, and after new cylider is installed do I just fill it and how much? I assume I would then need to bleed the system. Thanks for the patience.
Engle do you know that part number from napa? I am having the same problem and have looked around and 70 is the cheapest I found for a kit...
I just checked their website but didn't get any hits for just the rebuild kit...I'm sure they still sell them....I was about 9 years ago when I rebuilt mine with one of these kits. They do however sell a remmy MC version that is ready to bolt on and go for ~$80 (with you giving them a core):http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...linder+-+Remfd
Make sure that enter your specific year model on their website incase your year model requires a different part #
This website sells the rebuild kit but it seems kinda pricey: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/Pro...tNumber=MK1856
OK, I found the info on bleeding the brakes. Think I can handle this, although I am fairly new at this. Also it says to flush the system when new parts are installed. How would I do that, and after new cylider is installed do I just fill it and how much? I assume I would then need to bleed the system. Thanks for the patience.
As you bleed each brake you will be "flushing the system." You might not get all of the old fluid out but you will get close. To be sure you do tho, the fluid should run clear out of each bleeder screw. When brake fluid is old it looks dark and nasty!
Just make sure as you bleed the brakes that your fluid level in the master cylinder doesn't go all the way down. Continually fill it up.
To bench bleed a new master cylinder, clamp it to a vise. The fill it with fluid and use a screw driver or something to push in the piston about 1/4 of an inch repeatadly until no bubbles come back out into the reservoir. The new master cylinder should come with plastic screws to block off the line ports for bench bleeding.
I bought a $30 mite vac manual hand pump with a reservoir, it made bleeding brakes on my truck easy as pie, best $30 tool I have ever bought.
Stick one end on the bleeder, pump up a vacuum, tighten bleeder when the fluid runs clear. Make sure you fill the master or have someone watching it, you don't want to run it dry, the lines don't hold a lot of fluid.
As others have said, it is not a hard job, just takes time and patience.
Big HINT: After bench bleeding, before you secure the MC to the booster, hand thread the 2 nuts from the front/rear pressure lines first. You do not want to accidently cross thread these.
I think I have a hsndle on all this. One last question though. Does anyone know the sizes I need for flare nut wrench and bleeder wrench? Thanks to all who helped.
Thanks Joecarter85, what type of hose is used in the pic? and when done bench bleeding can I just remove the hose and install without air entering the cylinder?
Thanks Joecarter85, what type of hose is used in the pic? and when done bench bleeding can I just remove the hose and install without air entering the cylinder?
He said it is a standard "GM" MC bench bleed kit that he got at Pep Boys or Autozone. He said he "pushed in" and "slowly released" the MC plunger approximatly 50 times, or unitl no air bubbles are observed coming out of the black hoses that are fed back into the reservoir. Do not push the MC plunger to it's full extent, as seal damage is possable(push in approx. 1/2 inch or so). After it is bled properly, just walk it over to the car and install. Very little fluid will bleed out of the MC during this time. There will of course be air in the steel brake lines, so this is why all 4 calipers must be bled.
I just noticed mine last night and doing the same thing. Is there a way to clean the inside of the booster? Take it off??
I think you'd have to remove the booster and lay it on it's face and let gravity it drain out. I'm not sure if the brake fluid will damage the booster's internals or not.