Thanks for your help!

 

I had a simular problem that was caused by all therr cats cloghed.I had to have them cut open and everything taken out and the car ran better the ever. The reason I had the cleaned out was because I was on the road and did not want to pay the highway price.

 

pull the hose under the plenum on Pass side leading from the FPR to the upper plenum, if it squirts out Gas when ignition or started on then you need a new FPR.

 

After a week of spraying PB Blaster and Freeze off, tapping, and heating, I got one nut off and broke a stud on both sides

I'm crying uncle on the exhaust-is there a way to gut the pre cats with out worrying about shooting flames?
I'd like to eliminate the possibility of those being blocked while it's still up in the air. Then hopefully isolate the problem and get it in the shop to install the front y.

The fuel filter looks original and will replace it tomorrow and then check fuel pressure.

 

I have been playing with Model T Fords since 1962. One thing that is really great for loosening rusted/stuck on nuts and bolts is Kroil. It works great and a lot of the Model T people swear by it. And we KNOW rust.

 

Ok, front y is still on but I replaced the fuel filter and checked pressure. It is only showing 20 psi. The pump does come on for 2 sec like it should and there is fuel at the rail. FSM flow chart says to block return line. Where is the best place to do this and what should it be blocked with?

 

20# is not enough. Should be around 40#. I'd change the pump.

 

20 is to low. To block the fuel return the best place to do this is at the tank....this can be a 2 man job if you block it off "totally" the pressure will go through the roof and could cause other problems. May want to do some pressure leak down tests to see if the pump, pulse modulator, filter, injector/s or the fuel pressure regulator diaphram that is/are causing the low pressure issue.

Find any probems with those cats?

 

Hope I don't have to drop the tank-full tank of premium
I got a reading of 20psi from just turning the key on but not cranking.
I haven't checked further in the FSM but is there a procedure to do a leak down test other than following the flow chart?

The front y is still on. I have soaking the bolts in PB Blaster and sprayed them with Freeze Off and heated. I have 1 bolt off and 1 stud broken on both sides. As soon as I get it running again, I'll take it somewhere to get it off.....Ok, I'm a rookie!
Thanks guys

 

Sounds like rusty fun...hope your up on your tetanus shots.

The flow chart is fine.....you can do a search here on the forum for leak down tests procedures if you get stuck.
You don't have to drop the tank to get the fuel pump out it all comes out the fuel fill door.

 

The weather broke and I finally got a chance to mess around to see what the problem was.
After buying a cheap fuel pressure gauge, I checked the pressure few weeks ago and got a reading of 20 psi. Regulator checked out Ok. Checked the pressure again this past weekend and got a reading of 0psi. I knew this couldn't be right because there definitely was pressure in the rail but I replace the fuel pump anyway. Checked pressure prior to start up....0 psi. Car started and stumbled but I noticed what looked like glitter flying up from the manifold flange.
(tried taking the front y off a couple months ago and broke a bolt on each side)
I cut notches in both sides of the front Y pipes just ahead of the main cat. Although very loud, she's running fine.
Needless to say, I will never buy a tool or piece of test equipment based on price ever again. The gauge cost me $25 but the fuel pump, boot and gasket cost me about $130, hopefully it's something I won't have to worry about replacing for a long time.
Thanks to all of you that responded and helped me try to figure it out.