Harmonic Balancer Hub!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 215
Likes: 0
From: Radford Virginia
Harmonic Balancer Hub!
OK, I have removed the harmonic balancer (1992) and need to remove the crankshaft hub, so I can replace the timing cover gasket and oil seals. The FSM says to raise the motor some to get to the hub, first questions is what is the best way to raise the motor from underneath the car (Without damaging the oil pan) and has anyone used a tool other than the Kent Moore J-39046 to remove the hub, if so can you describe the tool or maybe post a pic, or link with descriptions of how you used it to remove the hub. I understand that the hub is pressed on and you don't want to use the threads as pushing or pulling point to remove or put the hub back on. I think this is right? I did a search but could not find the exact info that I am looking for, any help would be appreciated.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,939
Likes: 1
From: Vero Beach Florida
One thing I would do before removal is make sure your timing marks line up with TDC on the mark & piston position. These timing hubs can slip with age better to know before you replace the old hub.
I know because I just replaced my dizzy gear and my hub had slipped a little timing marks were off with piston @ TDC. I have an 87 L98 but I think LT1’s are same setup.
Just a thought easier to check before hand then get it all back together and find out.
I know because I just replaced my dizzy gear and my hub had slipped a little timing marks were off with piston @ TDC. I have an 87 L98 but I think LT1’s are same setup.
Just a thought easier to check before hand then get it all back together and find out.
Last edited by floridamale; Jan 28, 2009 at 12:14 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,837
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From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
I managed to get mine off w/o jacking it.
I bought a puller a NAPA puller
The threaded rod barely clears the crossmember, but it clears.
Watch the fins on the PS cooler if you have one.
I bought a puller a NAPA puller
The threaded rod barely clears the crossmember, but it clears.
Watch the fins on the PS cooler if you have one.
Instructor
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 215
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From: NEWPORT NEWS VA
Try this ,it does work very well i used it when pulling the one on my LT4.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1BNM7e6Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1BNM7e6Q
Last edited by catlettlt1; Jan 28, 2009 at 03:22 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,756
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From: Wichita KS
Wouldn't happen to have the puller's part number would you? I'm not sure if NAPA still have a store here or not. Have to order it. Need part number and a picture showing it being used....
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 132
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From: Austin Texas
You will not damage the oil pan if you use a 2" X 8" piece of wood to spread the load. There are only 2 18mm nuts that need to be loosened to raise the engine up. I had to do this to remove the hub from my 'LT4. Do not remove the nuts completely from the mounting bolts.
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Safety Car
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,651
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From: Apple Valley MN
Try this it does work very well i used it when pulling the one on my LT4.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1BNM7e6Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1BNM7e6Q
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,837
Likes: 289
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Just tell them it's for a SBC so the crank bolt it correct.
You'll need it to put the hub back on.
EDIT
This looks like the one I used.
http://www.napaonline.com/MasterPage...alancer+Puller
I put the outer threaded rod through the holes in the hub mount, that were occupied by the balancer.
If the bolts don't fit get smaller ones, and runs the nuts up one at a time till the mount comes off.
Last edited by BrianCunningham; Jan 28, 2009 at 01:29 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 215
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From: Radford Virginia
Thanks guys, the video was real informative and the post about using the piece of wood to support the oil pan. Will not get to work on it until the weekend, but now I know what tools I need and how to use them, thanks to this forum and it's participants.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 30,837
Likes: 289
From: Boston, Dallas, Detroit, SoCal, back to Boston MA
Try this ,it does work very well i used it when pulling the one on my LT4.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1BNM7e6Q
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qkh1BNM7e6Q
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,510
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
although not keyed, the Hub was installed with the arrow to point at 12:00 at #1 TDC(assuming cam gear "dot" is at 12:00) . So the "dot" on the crankshaft gear, the arrow on the Hub, and the arrow on the pully balancer will all be at 12:00 position.
Last edited by MikeC4; Feb 22, 2009 at 10:45 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 3,286
Likes: 6
From: Palm Beach
LT1 doesn't have a timing mark. Not needed as timing is not adjustable.
One thing I would do before removal is make sure your timing marks line up with TDC on the mark & piston position. These timing hubs can slip with age better to know before you replace the old hub.
I know because I just replaced my dizzy gear and my hub had slipped a little timing marks were off with piston @ TDC. I have an 87 L98 but I think LT1’s are same setup.
Just a thought easier to check before hand then get it all back together and find out.
I know because I just replaced my dizzy gear and my hub had slipped a little timing marks were off with piston @ TDC. I have an 87 L98 but I think LT1’s are same setup.
Just a thought easier to check before hand then get it all back together and find out.
