I'm about ready to spring for a set of Hedman Elite headers for my 87 but I was curious about the install process.

How high should the car be raised to be able to get the headers installed? I figure that at least one side will have to go in from the bottom.

 

i had mine put on at shop... they said it was the hardest set they had ever put on..

 

I installed mine on my '88 a few months back. Both will have to go in from the bottom. Overall it really wasnt that bad of a job. The problem I had was with the dipstick on the pass side.

 

How high should the car be raised to be able to get the headers installed? I figure that at least one side will have to go in from the bottom.[/QUOTE]

I did the pass side header with the car jacked up with the factory jack. After removing the starter the only issues were getting it around the dipstick.

 

This is how high I had mine, during install.


My only issue was with a wire bundle(pass side). I had to separate the fuel line at the union and put the bundle to the other side of it. Also, I manhandled my fuel lines to gain some clearance (near the A arm).

I put both in from the bottom and thought the install was smooth and the tie in to the factory "Y", was a breeze.

 

I don't know about the hedmans, but with my hookers, driver side went in from top and passenger went in from bottom. Had jackstands on front, both sides of car, and as high as possible for passenger side to go in.

Good luch, LT's on an L98 is so worth it!

 

haha. That's how they justified your bill.

-- Joe

 

I strongly recommend changing to the later 88+ starter during the install.

 

I agree. I'm running an LT1/1994 starter in mine. Small, out of the way, tons of torque.

I used to run an aftermarket race starter but the ZF6 requires an "offset" starter because the stupid hole in the bell housing is lower and to the left.

-- Joe

 

I've thought about that. I know that the OEM larger 87 starter will not come out with the right side header installed; it has to be loosened to allow starter removal.

Is the 88 and later starter a bolt-in including the wiring? Or would it be worth looking at aftermarket mini-starters like I see in the Summit catalog?

 

hum, i didn't realize this was an option... i'm currently in the market for a replacement starter, i've been using a "hitachi-style" mini-starter to clear my TPIS headers.

do you think the 92+ starter will work for me?

 

You will have to shim just about any of them I think, but mine required only a wire lengthening.

 

I'm not sure. I'm using a manual car starter for a '94. I'm going to guess that the 700R4/4l60/4l60E has the exact same bell housing cutout so it would work fine but if I was you I'd call Jason at vette2vette just to be sure. I know that an old style starter won't fit the ZF6 bell housing, but I don't know if a new starter won't have problems with a different bell housing.


-- Joe

 

i didn't consider auto vs manual difference. i have a ZF6, so it sounds like it should work then...

my local partsamerica has one in stock, tomorrow i'll see if it fits.

thanks,
edl

 

There was two bell housings for a ZF6 (on a SBC), the one year only '89 bell housing which took the normal L98 starter, and the '91+ bell housing which took the weird offset starter.

Let me know how it works out for ya. The '94 starter has a hitachi motor, tons of cranking torque and VERY small.

-- Joe

 

I have TPIS Headers on my 86'. I am using a NAPA auto parts 1988 Corvette starter. It does not require shimming. I know this because I have had 3 of them. The first one, the bendix would not retract properly, so it would grind after the engine fired. The second one worked, but it had a slow crank. I thought this was normal, but it got worse over time. The third one works great and cranks fast and smooth. NAPA replaced the others under their lifetime warranty, no hassels. None of the 3 starters required any shimming. The positive cable can be made to work if you take all the slack out of it, but it is not too hard to put in a newer battery cable. I did have to put my 86' connectors on the newer battery cable as some of the small wires had different connectors on them. That was not hard either.

I do have to take off the flywheel cover to remove the starter, but that is a simple thing compared to loosening the header.

I originally tried a generic small block ministarter, and I could not get it shimmed right. I had 2 different shops try and it still wasn't right. I found the NAPA starter to be a massive improvement.

 

so, the lt1 starter fits no problem, really nice and snug up in there. only one problem for my install though, the 11-tooth drive is binding on my ring gear. i'm running a 400 block w/89 zf6 bellhousing. i can only assume that i'm running a 168-tooth flywheel (don't fell like counting them). this makes sense because my previous starter has a 9-tooth drive which i believe is the correct pairing. shimming helped to at least engage gears, allowing a slight turn over, but the gear would get stuck and not retract. hopefully i can easily swap out the gears...

 

A 168 tooth flywheel fits in the ZF6 bell housing?? How is that possible, the bolt pattern for the ZF6 clutch should be for a 153 tooth flywheel.

Hrmm..

-- Joe

 

well, what i can tell you is that the builder (this was 15+ years ago) had the flywheel custom ground for some reason, probably the issue you reference. for the longest time i remember the old flywheel sitting in storage.

 

more information regarding starter options for C4's:

Later 1996 LT1 vehicles (5.7L) with 153-tooth flywheel, Delco starter PG260M (GM or Delco No. 9000798, 10465293)

1991-1993 L05 (5.7L) engine with 168-tooth flywheel, Delco starter SD300/w9-tooth pinion (for the 168-tooth flywheelers in the crowd, substitute w/GM or Delco PG260M Starter No.9000899 originally in 1999 LT1 Tahoe)

1992-1996 OSGR Corvette starter (GM Delco No. 10455703)

(SD=starter direct drive-no gear reduction)
(PG=Planetary Gear w/gear reduction)
(OSGR=Offset Gear Reduction)

The differences between direct-drive and gear reduction starters are:

• Direct drive starter has field coil and are large, heavy, with low torque.
• Gear reduction starter has no field coil and are small, lightweight, with high torque.

Pilfered (cannot guarantee 100% accuracy) from here: http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=158974

i'll be trying the tahoe option next, fortunately it's in stock where i bought the lt1 unit, so i can just swap them out.

UPDATE: the tahoe starter did not fit the 89-style zf-6 bellhousing w/the nose cone interfering w/mounting. maybe later zf-6 and auto bellhousings will work...

looks as though i'll be getting a mini-starter from summit.