I'm planning on replacing my clutch and flywheel soon in my 89 with the ZF 6spd. Any suggestions on what brand would be good? I'm thinking lighter weight is always better and I'd like it to handle up to 400hp for possible future mods. Thanks CF!

 

I bought an aluminum one that I absolutely loved. It reved so much faster and decelerated so much faster than a stock. Yes it gained HP but lost TQ. I believe the heaver your crankshaft the more torque you can have. You may not need all of the extra torque if you can't catch traction. Torque accelerates and horsepower maintains torque. Believe it or not, but after I installed the aluminum flywheel, my car actually decelerated going down hills. This technique is great if you like to autocross. I used a billet flywheel from Hays because billet is a stronger material than regular aluminum. It is recommended to use a scatter shield when using an aluminum flywheel-just in case if it blows up at a high RPM that it does not hurt you. I personally did not use the shield but I had no problems with it. I used it on my TPI engine-which is not a high reving engine. I just got a new engine and I am upset that this flywheel does not match up to the crank-so it is just sitting in my garage. I also used the centerforce dual friction clutch and pressure plate which was great. The higher you rev the better the hold-it uses these sliding brackets on the diaphram which varies the pressure on the clutch. They never made noise on me, but I have heard that some people took these weights off because they felt that they made noise. I feel that maybe they installed their throwout bearing incorrectly or had broken tabs on their clutch fork. I got both parts through summitracing.com I hope this was useful to you. Let me know if you want pictures I have plenty!

 

I'm using a SPEC stage 2 clutch and lightened pressure plate along with a SPEC steel flywheel for my 383 build. SPEC also has an aluminum flywheel. How you plan to use the car and what you can tolerate regarding noise (gear rattle) are the two deciding factors.

 

I don't go to the track too much but would like to. I also like to go to the drag strip once in a while. Mostly, I just like spirited driving. Faster acceleration is always better right? I also have a SuperRam on the car now, would that help determine the right choice?

Why does an aluminum flywheel generate more gear noise?

 

The alum. FW does not dissipate the gear rattle that is natural to a ZF tranny like the much heavier stock DM FW....I have the alum. FW; very nice, but in neutral with the clutch pedal disengaged, it sounds like a can of rocks shaking, push the clutch in and it goes away.....something you need to consider....

 

I'd like to get an aluminum FW but I'm leary of two things:

1) the noise

2) the springs in the DM FW help cushion the load, and I'll be road racing the car.

 

I posted some pics over in my 383 build thread that show the clutch and pressure plate. As far as springs in the dual mass....Think of all the Vettes before and after the ZF6 equipped C4s that don't have a dual mass to cushion the load that survive just fine.

 

I have a Spec Stage 3 (6 puck) and a Fidanza Alum FW.

For general driving its noisey at stop lights and you can't just let the clutch out from idle taking off anymore with the stock motor. The gear rattle is a subjective thing. Either you can live with it or you can't. I'd suggest you try to find someonme local who has a single mass FW ZF6 set up and have a listen to decide.

Some folks say the exact oposite but it helped my car at the drag strip when I still had the stock LT1. On regular street tires I could modulate wheel spin much easier. With drag radials, I could launch the car from 4000-4500RPM and almost dead hook, then hit the bottle. I ran some high 1.60 60fts doing this. The only thing the light FW hurt, was when I ran my real drag racing tires (M/T ET Street 26X11.5 bias ply). I had to launch the car from 5000RPM or better as to not bog the motor if I dumped the clutch off the line. I got down in the 1.50 60fts doing this but broke a lot of rear end parts.

If you look here, I posted up pics of what my Spec Stage 3 Clutch looked like (after all the abuse I just listed). I replaced it when I put the big motor in my 92. All the pertinant info is in the thread.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c4-t...utch-pics.html

Will

 

Have the Spec 3+ clutch and GM Camaro LT1 steel flywheel in my 396. Idle is set at 900 RPM. Noise is not an issue. If you leave the car running in neutral it eventually starts rattling. Normal driving is like the DMF.

 

Can't go wrong with ClutchMasters stages 2 - 4, give them a call to review your application. They will be happy to help. http://www.clutchmasters.com