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Contacted a company about a complete center section and they asked if I needed a 1310 yoke or 1350? What the difference and what do I have and or need? Should I get these hardened?
its the size of the ujoint and cup. dana and spicer use these numbers for differentiation. I cant remember but i think mine(87) uses a 1310. i'll double check today. mosy 1350's are seen on trucks and such.
its the size of the ujoint and cup. dana and spicer use these numbers for differentiation. I cant remember but i think mine(87) uses a 1310. i'll double check today. mosy 1350's are seen on trucks and such.
1350 u-joints are for the half-shafts.
Some guys have custom driveshafts made that use the lager 1350 joints for heavy duty applications.
In that case you will need a pinion yoke like this one http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p317...nion_yoke.html
Last edited by Jagdpanzer; Feb 1, 2009 at 10:16 AM.
Reason: more info
Since I'm just getting a center section I guess I'm with the 1310, which from what I understand comes with it. Is it not good to use the old one or should I just keep that with my stock center section?
The 1350 def. looks beefier, I'd rather have that but don't want to mess with the half shafts.
The reason you were asked is the Super 44-Vette/Viper shares the D60 pinion spline and it's an often desired build. Do you need? If you've experienced drive-line failure, broken u-joints(solid) or otherwise you might consider it. If you experienced broken u-joints you should have your drive-shaft checked for twist. If you move to the D60/1350 flange you should consider the Denny's drive-shaft build with custom tube.
If you're using your original shaft and haven't experienced problems then you might for the time being stick with the 1310 build. Maybe the real "deciding factor" here would be the check of your present shaft for "twist"! It should likely be done anyway with a balance and new joints.
Geez, I should have known better. Getting into other odds and ends now with the drive-shaft. Where can I get that done at, placely locally do this. It's common?
If you've broken "solid joints" the "drive-line" check is a must!
You should be able to have the shaft checked locally. Yellow pages for truck repairs and drive-line. Check with "local racers", those with "big power". Denny's is first class stuff and their "support" is first class also.
If you get the 1350 yoke, you can buy u joints that have 1310 on one side, and 1350 on the other side.
I had to use those when I put a 4+3 trans in my 57 chevy pickup.
The drive shaft i used is out of a 1999 suburban.
If you feel you need a better drive shaft, you can always get a custom one built by any drive shaft repair shop.
I had the suburban one cut down to fit my needs, and it is a lot heavier and beefier.
If you need the special u joints, any 4 wheel drive jeep and offroad vehicle shop can supply them as well as the drive shaft shop.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; Feb 1, 2009 at 08:49 PM.
you can buy u joints that have 1310 on one side, and 1350 on the other side.
.
Spicer 5-460X 1310 x 1350 Conversion U Joint
FWIW
Very few people on here have reported driveshaft problems in Hi-po cars using the 1310 uni's.
Diff components break first before driveshaft and with a 1350 on the rear of the DS ,the 1310 on the trans yoke becomes the next weakest link.
I haven't broken anything "yet" (knock on wood). I haven't been to the strip in a couple years. Once everthing is done and in I'd only be making a couple passes. I usually get kicked out ( no roll bar,etc) so I have to spread out my visits.
Just trying to look into the future if you will to see what I can expect.
I was running 1310s on my dana 44 for years and never had a driveshaft problem even running in the high 10's. With my 12 bolt I have 1350s and am running mid 10's. All my problems were within the differential or outside of the halfshafts. By the way, how's the SR club newsletter coming along?
Well I think I'm just going to get the center section with the 1310 yokes and if I break something deal with it then instead of spending the money on it now. As I stated I don't plan to make that many passes, I hope it all holds together. My best 60" is a 1.70 on M&H slicks. I either bog or spin when using them.
The SR newsletter has been sent to the editor for final proof reading. Stay tuned!
Where can I get speedo change since I'm going to be going from 3.33's to 3.73's.
Last edited by Snakecharmer383; Feb 9, 2009 at 12:36 AM.
Well I think I'm just going to get the center section with the 1310 yokes and if I break something deal with it then instead of spending the money on it now. As I stated I don't plan to make that many passes, I hope it all holds together. My best 60" is a 1.70 on M&H slicks. I either bog or spin when using them.
The SR newsletter has been sent to the editor for final proof reading. Stay tuned!
Where can I get speedo change since I'm going to be going from 3.33's to 3.73's.
Just need to change the speedo gears in the tailshaft. There is a chart with the different color gear combos around somewhere.