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Looking good Glock. What software are you going to use for tuning? LT1 edit? If so I can help you out with a good baseline program to get it running. One of my good friends recently did a 383 conversion in his LT1. He uses LT1 edit to tune. So I know he has a few base programs that he may give you. Let me know, shoot me an email off the list if necessary...
Glock, I may be wrong, but I'm thinking that the GM approved white Teflon thread sealant was the preferred treatment on headbolts. Believe me, it will not be a slamdunk to get at all those headbolts to apply it after the fact, once you get the headers and all the accessories bolted back on. Plus, you will have to drain the block again. Just fyi.
I cannot beleive the head gaskets were for a different version of the same engine... i would be willing to bet they were for a different engine entirely. perhaps an LS1???
The heads look GREAT!
Sorry about the studs... that sucks - no, you did'nt buy them from me...
not the head gaskets.. the exhaust manifold gaskets... the head gaskets have been the same on GM 350's for... AGES...... (ok, almost the same)
[Modified by Glock'94, 10:26 PM 1/22/2002]
that makes more sence... you said head gaskets... confused me...
Just curious, why did you drop the shortblock in before you bolted the heads up? Also, I'm sure he checked, but did you measure the clearance between the rods and cam? You need at least .060" on a stroker, with my custom roller I have .100" which is scary looking:).
Did you do your own tuning? How long did it take? Hopefully since I've been able to wait 2 months for my rebuild, I should be able to work for a few weeks on tuning it. Plus it gives me an excuse to get out and drive it around a lot ;)
Nope, Graham Behan from LPE did the tune)or de-tune... I had too much timing from 2500 on up :D it detonated the whole way down and still did 11.84@117 :) ) It's perfect now. I was VERY close to doing a DFI..but seeing the way the car runs and drives...why mess with a good thing? I'm sure with all of the GOOD PEOPLE here, you ought to be fine getting it dialed in. Be sure to hang out in ECM/PCM Tuning. You'll most likely find the solution to your snag there if you hit one.
Glock, I may be wrong, but I'm thinking that the GM approved white Teflon thread sealant was the preferred treatment on headbolts. Believe me, it will not be a slamdunk to get at all those headbolts to apply it after the fact, once you get the headers and all the accessories bolted back on. Plus, you will have to drain the block again. Just fyi.
OOOOOhhhh.. you're right.. there was teflon tape on the head bolts ..... :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod: Ok, I should be safe then :yesnod: :yesnod: :yesnod:
Looking good Glock. What software are you going to use for tuning? LT1 edit? If so I can help you out with a good baseline program to get it running. One of my good friends recently did a 383 conversion in his LT1. He uses LT1 edit to tune. So I know he has a few base programs that he may give you. Let me know, shoot me an email off the list if necessary...
I'm using Tuner Cat .. the good thing is that Tuner Cat can open LT1 edit files.. so if you have some, by all means jet them overe here ;) ... I'm trying to go through and look at as many tables on different setups as I can to see what all i should do.
Did you do your own tuning? How long did it take? Hopefully since I've been able to wait 2 months for my rebuild, I should be able to work for a few weeks on tuning it. Plus it gives me an excuse to get out and drive it around a lot ;) Nope, Graham Behan from LPE did the tune)or de-tune... I had too much timing from 2500 on up :D it detonated the whole way down and still did 11.84@117 :) ) It's perfect now. I was VERY close to doing a DFI..but seeing the way the car runs and drives...why mess with a good thing? I'm sure with all of the GOOD PEOPLE here, you ought to be fine getting it dialed in. Be sure to hang out in ECM/PCM Tuning. You'll most likely find the solution to your snag there if you hit one.
Catch ya later.
:cool: .. yeah I've been talking with Craig a lot in ECM/PCM
Just curious, why did you drop the shortblock in before you bolted the heads up? Also, I'm sure he checked, but did you measure the clearance between the rods and cam? You need at least .060" on a stroker, with my custom roller I have .100" which is scary looking:).
The block went in before the heads, because it is nearly impossible to get the two bolts holding the engine to the tranny on the top off without taking the heads off. If he didn't do that, the tranny would have to come out too, and that would require taking the hood off ... but this worked out very well. If I ever have to take it out again, I will do it that way for sure. Not having those heads on there leaves a LOT more room to get the bell housing bolts on and other little stuff as well.
I cannot beleive the head gaskets were for a different version of the same engine... i would be willing to bet they were for a different engine entirely. perhaps an LS1???
The heads look GREAT!
Sorry about the studs... that sucks - no, you did'nt buy them from me...
not the head gaskets.. the exhaust manifold gaskets... the head gaskets have been the same on GM 350's for... AGES...... (ok, almost the same)
[Modified by Glock'94, 10:26 PM 1/22/2002]
that makes more sence... you said head gaskets... confused me...
That's really strange on the gaskets. Header gaskets or manifolds? It shouldn't make much difference I know the manifold gaskets for the BlueDemon are EXACTLY like mine. So were the header gaskets we replaced them with. Kinda strange that you could get screwed over there.
It really sounds to me like you have some of my friend's luck. Could the curse of the BlueDemon have you as well?!?! Mwha haha haha!! :reddevil
Uh.. the gasket between the head and the stock headers ... I guess that would be the header gasket then huh.. lol
Yup, Assembly lube is what that looks like. I would have suggested wiping the large clumps off, but looks like you already have the intake on.
Hmm.. oh well... it didn't look THAT thick on there when I looked at the valves myself.... i guess that white just kinda sticks out really bad since there's nothing else white around that area.
The extra lube will just end up burning off when it drips down into they cylinder right?
The block went in before the heads, because it is nearly impossible to get the two bolts holding the engine to the tranny on the top off without taking the heads off.
NAH - you just need a whole bunch of extensions and 1 brother that is willing to get his arms stuck in the space between the tranny and the body! It only took 2 days to put car back together and get it running again.