When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Here's my problem. Took my 87 out today and did a few errands. Car started ok. Drove home and let it sit in the drive way for about 1/2 hour. Got in the car to move it, turned the key, got quick dash lights/starter jolt then nothing. Nada. Dead. No interior lights,no headlights,no radio, no power anywhere. I think it may be a fuse/fusible link somewhere. Need suggestions and locations where to look. The only electrical issue I seem to have is that when the car is cold, the battery indicator on the DIC come on and the dash gauge shows 15.1 to 15.3 volts this lasts about 30 seconds and disappears, and does not return. Again thoughts suggestions are appreciated.
Check that your battery connections are clean and tight at both ends. I had this problem with my 1985 and it was the positive connestion at the starter. Hope your problem is this easy to fix.
Check that your battery connections are clean and tight at both ends. I had this problem with my 1985 and it was the positive connestion at the starter. Hope your problem is this easy to fix.
Thanks guys. I'll give it a quick top side check. At this time of year tough to get under it. I can only work out side. May have to have it towed to the car's best friend---the mechanic.
15v + on the battery display is not right. A fully charged battery should show between 12.4 to 12.8v measured at the terminals. The other possibility is a dying battery. The alternator would be trying to charge the battery and an internal short in the battery could be the reason for a high voltage reading.
With a good fully charged battery and the engine running above 1000RPM, typical voltage readings should be anywhere between 13.5 and 14.3v depending on what electrical devices are in use.
Also check both battery terminals. It could be as simple as a loose bolt or corrosion where the cable ring meets the lead terminal. A loose bolt can also result in corrosion eating away the end ring material. The lack of sufficient material to transfer current can result in an outage.
Remove both battery cables (neg first) and clean the cable lugs, bolts, and the battery posts and replace the cables (neg last). Starter motors require 100+ amps and need a low resistance connection of the battery cables to the battery! If you only get a click, then have someone hold the starter on and you measure the battery voltage at the terminals, it should not fall lower than 9.0 volts or you have a dead battery or a battery at the end of its life (cable connections are next, but you have already cleaned them). You can tell the state of charge by measuring the no load battery voltage, 12.0 volts and below, discharged, charge the battery up. 12.9 volts and above, fully charged and linear in between. If clean tight battery cables, charged battery and the starter pulls the voltage below 9.0 volts, then you have a defective battery.
From: levittown pa. usa Even a bad day with my `Vette, is better than a good day at work
St. Jude Donor '10
Originally Posted by AGENT 86
to
I definitely to with your . I had a loose battery connection, & when I turned the key I heard a & then everything went dark. Of course it was at night in the rain.
Thanks for the info. Looks like I have a bad battery, it read 11.5 volts I put the charger on it for awhile then tested it again 12.6, 12.5, 12.3 just kept dropping 30 min. later 11.5.
Thanks for the info. Looks like I have a bad battery, it read 11.5 volts I put the charger on it for awhile then tested it again 12.6, 12.5, 12.3 just kept dropping 30 min. later 11.5.
Take advantage of Black Friday at Sears for a Platinum Die Hard.
Wow, posted this 9 months ago. Anyway, after a $50 tow to the mechanic, turns out that when I put on my quick disconnect, I failed to tighten one of the terminal bolts and it worked its way loose during the drive. Embarrassing and expensive.