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I think the ones w/o zerks are the strongest. Spicer or Brute Force seem to get the best reviews around here. I have all Brute Force on my car and havn't had a failure yet, at least with the u-joints, hahahaaah.
I had problems trying to find joints without the zerts around town (this IS Boise Idaho :D ). I ended up getting some lifetimes from Napa. They have zerts, some funky tiny thing on the endcap, never seen that kind of thing before :confused: . I'm sure they are stronger than the "normal" zert type. First I though they could throw the balance off, but they are so small. Had my shafts balanced so it don't matter anyway. Unless I have to change u-joints again soon :eek:
I have u-joints with grease fittings all the way around. They've been on 1 1/2 years with no problems. But someone said they must be mounted correctly for greater strength. I am not sure what that meant.
I have u-joints with grease fittings all the way around. They've been on 1 1/2 years with no problems. But someone said they must be mounted correctly for greater strength. I am not sure what that meant.
Anybody know?
Gregor :seeya
I've heard that also and have no idea what is meant by that.
I have u-joints with grease fittings all the way around. They've been on 1 1/2 years with no problems. But someone said they must be mounted correctly for greater strength. I am not sure what that meant.
Anybody know?
Gregor :seeya
Two of the 4 "arms" (legs?) of the u-joint apply the power, the other two receive power. For maximum strength, the u-joint should be mounted so that the hole for the zerk fitting would be compressed rather than stretched apart when power is applied.
Easier to explain with a picture, but I don't have any. (I'm also assuming the traditional zerk location at the base of arms.)
here is a REAL basic drawing showing what they mean. As you can see from the direction of rotation, the applied force will tend to compress rather than elongate the area where the zerk is located.... therefore preventing tearing the u-joint in half at the weak spot created by the drilled hole for the zerk fitting.
I use GMB performace series U-joints. They have a lifetime warranty and are used by many OEMs including Porche. I don't mind the zerk as I can pack the u-joint with any grease of my choice (including synthetic).
Great picture it help me understand it better. I read it in the installation maual of my u-joints the same way. The only problem I had was determining the position of the say the half shafts where the zerks are actually compressed or where they are tugged upon. The zerk turns around with the half-shaft and the yolk. I the have shaft has a downward inclination it will be different from when it has an upward inclination. For that reason I personally think using these on the half shafts isn't the best option. I personally think using them on the propeller shaft wouldn't matter because it has a fixed orientation and as we all know a little angel on them to keep the needle bearings rolling. So there I suppose the zerk can be mounted in such away that it is always compressed. On the half shafts I don't see it.