Car blew up NEED HELP
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,966
Likes: 4
From: Made In America
St. Jude Donor '10-'11
its a valve that is right infront of the blank coolant tank on the passanger side. I gues it open at high rpms to push more coolant threw. Anyways it broke. I dont have to be a wrench turner to replace this thing. Its only 2 metal tightners. Never mind. Ill ask someone else. Some of you guys on here are dicks.
Thermostats are easy to replace. Just make sure to use a new gasket.
I would also flush the system and replace the hose that busted. Sounds like it got to hot, the pressure built up, and the hose couldn't withstand it anymore.
Last edited by M.J.L.; Feb 14, 2009 at 11:10 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,510
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
I blew a coolant flow restrictor on my '95, this is what you are looking for. You can just go buy a plastic hose coupler from Poop boys or autozone as a temporary fix:
another member pointed out that rockauto.com carry these:
another member pointed out that rockauto.com carry these:
Last edited by MikeC4; Feb 14, 2009 at 12:07 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 5,002
Likes: 5
From: No Opti Here Tn
St. Jude Donor '06
Everything you have described is very simple to do and if you dont feel comfortable doing you should get some help. I am sure there is someone on this forum in your area who will help.
Could be a dick though You just have to take a chance
Could be a dick though You just have to take a chance
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 0
From: Strongsville Ohio
well thanks for the sarcastic remarks, I don't have a tendency to do anything. I get ripped on for spelling a lot and all I try is do is ask questions. But most times I am searching for people who could use my 2 cents. But thanks guys again for helping. I have never changed a T-stat but from the help it doesn't sound hard at all. As far as the coolant, the house is fine but the plastic connector just broke. I saw the pics the one guy sent me and that one is black. Mine is like a ugly light green color and also has like a fake looking turn **** on top. Once again sorry for the delays in pics. i should have one up tomorrow morn.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
Personally I doubt the thermostat is bad the Flush port probably just broke. As I already stated you probably have your flow control replaced by one. It was probably leaking before it broke completely. I would peplace that first.I have neither in my current car just a coupling and the heater works just fine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,510
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Personally I doubt the thermostat is bad the Flush port probably just broke. As I already stated you probably have your flow control replaced by one. It was probably leaking before it broke completely. I would peplace that first.I have neither in my current car just a coupling and the heater works just fine.
Sounds like someone put in an after market flow control device that allows you to manually open/close the valve. This gives you the option to shut off the flow of hot coolant during summertime(even though the diverter door should prohibit hot air from entering cabin). I also just used a hose coupler on my '95 with no problems. I have "read" that the flow control device is used in order to reduce the high coolant flow rate through the heater core at high RPM's .
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Drifting
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
derekguzz That is not factory on the car. Someone put it on there to aid flushing the cooling system. You can get another one at Wall Mart or any auto supply store, or replace the hose they guy cut in half and not have to worry about it breaking again later on. You do not need one of those deals to flush the cooling system. I do not like them because it's just something else to fail and leave you stranded. Replace the hose and leave the flushing deal off. If the engine has overheated a little, it's good insurance to replace the thermostat. Do not get the Opti Spark wet replacing the thermostat. Take off a lower radiator hose and drain the anti-freeze into a container under the car. There is a petcock drain on the radiator, if you can get at that, drain the radiator that way. If not, take a lower hose off. You will have to remove the Mass Airflow with it's two bellows together. I just take off the air filter & all. Disconnect the MAF sensor and pull out the Opti-Spark vent hose from the Bellows. The thermostat housing is right there. Two bolts hold it on. Put a towel in front to catch any drainage to keep the Opti-Spark ignition dry.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,756
Likes: 0
From: Wichita KS
I'm not sure where that flow control valve goes. I doubt the guy replaced the flow control with a flush deal?? Anything's possible. If you look around and find that black flow control, there should only be one.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 0
From: Strongsville Ohio
ryan thanks alot. your help is what i have been looking for, along with everyone elses. I knew this thing wasnt stock on this car. its just stupid looking. thanks alot.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
I told you in the beginning what it was I also gave you several ways to fix it. The flow valve is not totally necessary. That spot is a likely place to install a flush port to assist in flushing the motor. It makes it a lot easier than pulling the knock sensors to do it. You can get the flow valve (see previous links and observe the direction arrow) you can simply put a coupling, available everywhere, or you can put in a new flush port. The choice is yours. Good luck
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 5,789
Likes: 8
From: Myrtle Beach SC
St. Jude Donor '05-'06
The only benefit I see is if you spend a lot of time in higher RPM's such as a race car. All it does is restrict flow and possibly pressure to the Heater core not really an issue till the pump spins up.It does not turn it on or off like the earlier flow valves did,
"Coolant to the heater core comes from the water pump. The lower hose on the water pump is the heater core inlet, and should have a flow restrictor mounted in the hose. This is to prevent over-stressing the core at high engine rpms. The heater core outlet hose returns to the water pump at the upper hose connection, and also has a T-connector to the pressurized reservoir to bleed off any air."
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=216026
"Coolant to the heater core comes from the water pump. The lower hose on the water pump is the heater core inlet, and should have a flow restrictor mounted in the hose. This is to prevent over-stressing the core at high engine rpms. The heater core outlet hose returns to the water pump at the upper hose connection, and also has a T-connector to the pressurized reservoir to bleed off any air."
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=216026
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 2,151
Likes: 0
From: Strongsville Ohio
see a pic is what i needed for reff of where the stock one should be. 5 bucks says I have one there and some guy put the thing that broke in a line to help with the flushing. well this thread id helping with alot of confusion..