C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

Is this Optispark dead?

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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 12:34 PM
  #1  
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From: Grand Sport #82
Default Is this Optispark dead?

When I did my cam swap, I inspected my optispark, and found this (shown in the pictures) There was little oil, not much in the optispark, but the rotor was halfway detached. Since I had to get the car roling and out of my friends shop I had no other options as assemble the car again with the rotor repaird with epoxy glue as a shorttherm sulution.

Today I drove a longer drive with the new cam, on the stock tune, and I get some missfires at low rpms, could this be due to my Optispark or the stock tune I have. I get code 300, the car is stumbling also sometimes when I get on it.

I also had some missfire problems before my cam swap, but I am not sure how a Lt4 with a Hotcam SHOULD drive on the stock tune.

Here is the half lose rotor lead

There is some tear in the leads here aswell


There was also some play in the opti beaing..


SO.
How does a dying Optispark feel?
How should a LT4 with a stock tune and Hotcam Drive?
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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That cap and rotor have seen better days. What was loose on the rotor, the 2 torx bolts or the metel contactor ???? You said you had to epoxy something......use loctite on the screws......but if you had to epoxy the metel contactor due to plastic tabs not holding it in place, time to replace rotor/cap.

What kind of Opti is that anyway ???

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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 03:07 PM
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From: Grand Sport #82
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yes, one of the tabs holding the Conductor in plac eon rotor was broken off. So the conductor was loose.

What would a dying opti feel like?
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Old Feb 15, 2009 | 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Lars87
yes, one of the tabs holding the Conductor in plac eon rotor was broken off. So the conductor was loose.

What would a dying opti feel like?
Exactly as you described in your first post. I would have at least put a new cap and rotor in if not the whole unit. You will get misses as the carbon tracing I am sure you had occurs. If you look closely at the cap you will see little lines of carbon. You also probably opened up the gap from the rotor to the pins causing a larger spark gap. I could go on but just replace it and be done with it.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 08:46 AM
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If you could feel play in the rotor bearing, I'd replace the entire unit. That's probably what started the abnormal wear against the cap, which in the long run loosened the rotor.

Mine showed exactly your symptoms and it's now in pieces on my bench. Maybe I'll make a clock out of it.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 10:58 AM
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Default Stock Opti Insurance

Before I install my new optispark I'd like to prevent any future problems. What type of fasteners are those it is sealed with? Tool? What parts need the locktite. High strength? or Medium?


Thanks
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by rickreeves1
Before I install my new optispark I'd like to prevent any future problems. What type of fasteners are those it is sealed with? Tool? What parts need the locktite. High strength? or Medium?


Thanks
The Opti unit is sealed with 4 "inverse" torx screws.
You can get a 6 piece deep wall "External Star(torx) Socket Set" from Harbor Freight. The Opti uses size E4. Can't beat it for $7

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=95178

The 2 normal torx rotor screws should use locktite "red". I would think the "blue" medium would also be fine, I just use "red" . Dealers choice. It would be easier to replace a rotor in future if you use the medium blue stuff. I am not sure why these 2 screws do not have ""star" lock-washer considering the high rotational spin and vibrations.


Last edited by MikeC4; Feb 16, 2009 at 11:20 AM.
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeC4
The Opti unit is sealed with 4 "inverse" torx screws.
You can get a 6 piece "External Star(torx) Socket Set" from Harbor Freight. The Opti uses size E4.

The 2 normal torx rotor screws should use locktite "red". I would think the "blue" medium would also be fine, I just use "red" . Dealers choice. It would be easier to replace a rotor in future if you use the medium blue stuff. I am not sure why these 2 screws do not have ""star" lock-washer considering the high rotational spin and vibrations.

Thanks, I'll pickup the stuff today. Do you recommend using some type of washer? A single star washer maybe?
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Old Feb 16, 2009 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by rickreeves1
Thanks, I'll pickup the stuff today. Do you recommend using some type of washer? A single star washer maybe?
I would stick to using locktite, as you will loose some depth of your torx bolt seating. As I recall, these tiny torx screws are pretty dang short. And since they are bolting into aluminum, you don't want to loose any length to lockwasher offset. I mentioned star lockwashers as something the manufacturers should have considered.


Last edited by MikeC4; Feb 16, 2009 at 11:32 AM.
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