EWP Gear removal.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
EWP Gear removal.
Do you have to remove the gear and bearing above the camshaft to get rid of the mechnical side of the pump. Then you freeze plug the timing cover right?
Do I have to freeze plug where the bearing was on the engine side? Or is it ok to let the oild flow thru it?
Do I have to freeze plug where the bearing was on the engine side? Or is it ok to let the oild flow thru it?
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
Yes you should remove the WP drive gear assy. Then you need to put a plug in the timing cover.
It's fine to leave the hole left by the WP drive assy in the block alone.
So I take the reluctor ring off and just tune out the cps code right? Nothing goes in place of the ring???
Will
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,102
Likes: 1
From: Portsmouth Virginia 396LT4 435RWHP/400RWTQ Best so far 11.26 @ 123mph
You should never let gears run or freewheel without some load on the
teeth. You would just be asking for trouble later. At a minimum,you should at least press the gear off the shaft and let the shaft still be used with the seal in the cover if you don't want to plug the cover hole. This would allow you to go back to the mechanical pump later if you should decide to.
The aftermarket dampers like the ATI super damper for the 94-96 cars I use comes with about an .080" spacer ring that makes up for the crank sensor ring if needed.
Rick
teeth. You would just be asking for trouble later. At a minimum,you should at least press the gear off the shaft and let the shaft still be used with the seal in the cover if you don't want to plug the cover hole. This would allow you to go back to the mechanical pump later if you should decide to.
The aftermarket dampers like the ATI super damper for the 94-96 cars I use comes with about an .080" spacer ring that makes up for the crank sensor ring if needed.
Rick
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Add a freeze plug to the timing cover. As long as the plug is somewhat snug, use The Right Stuff or epoxy (ie JB Weld) to hold it in place
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Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
Alright I had a bastard of timing getting a freeze plug to fit. I ended up putting a 1 1/8 freeze plubg in there but its loose. Im not comfortable with that process so IM going to go to the machine shop and get them to do something perminate.
Ill remove the gear when I get home and Ill next day a harmonic balancer in.
Pulling the sprocket on the crank, what did you guys use?
Ill remove the gear when I get home and Ill next day a harmonic balancer in.
Pulling the sprocket on the crank, what did you guys use?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
Im looking on summit I dont know what balancer to get. None of them say a difference between the 1996 1995. Can some get me a part number that would be great. I see that 1996 run a 3.417 and the 1995 is 3.516.
Im thinking that its the ATI 917274 from summit. And like rick says it comes with a spacer so I guess thats it.
They also make one in summit but do you think this is a good replacement. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51607/10002/-1
Im not too concerned with top brand products, Im planning on a 383 forged build that will get all the good stuff. This stock short block 350 Im running now will probly blow up.
Also I can leave the sensor (CPS) in place to plug the hole right? Or should I freeze plug that too?
Im thinking that its the ATI 917274 from summit. And like rick says it comes with a spacer so I guess thats it.
They also make one in summit but do you think this is a good replacement. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51607/10002/-1
Im not too concerned with top brand products, Im planning on a 383 forged build that will get all the good stuff. This stock short block 350 Im running now will probly blow up.
Also I can leave the sensor (CPS) in place to plug the hole right? Or should I freeze plug that too?
Last edited by fc_soldier; Mar 4, 2009 at 02:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
I have mine at the shop its ready to pick up. They didn't weld it cause they were afraid of warping with using heat. Ill see what they did tomorrow.
Last edited by fc_soldier; Mar 5, 2009 at 12:28 AM.
Safety Car
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,624
Likes: 431
From: Dale City VA
Im looking on summit I dont know what balancer to get. None of them say a difference between the 1996 1995. Can some get me a part number that would be great. I see that 1996 run a 3.417 and the 1995 is 3.516.
Im thinking that its the ATI 917274 from summit. And like rick says it comes with a spacer so I guess thats it.
They also make one in summit but do you think this is a good replacement. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51607/10002/-1
Im not too concerned with top brand products, Im planning on a 383 forged build that will get all the good stuff. This stock short block 350 Im running now will probly blow up.
Also I can leave the sensor (CPS) in place to plug the hole right? Or should I freeze plug that too?
Im thinking that its the ATI 917274 from summit. And like rick says it comes with a spacer so I guess thats it.
They also make one in summit but do you think this is a good replacement. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51607/10002/-1
Im not too concerned with top brand products, Im planning on a 383 forged build that will get all the good stuff. This stock short block 350 Im running now will probly blow up.
Also I can leave the sensor (CPS) in place to plug the hole right? Or should I freeze plug that too?
I used the ATI 917269 on Nolands 96. Incidently I had to REMOVE the spacer for it to line up correctly with the accy drive. I also was using the Cloyes double roller timing set.
The balancer can always be transfered to your new 383 when ever you do that swap. IMO it's one less high dollar part to buy later.
You can just leave the sensor in place on the timing cover or plug it -whatever you want to do. I left the sensor in the cover on Nolands engine and hasn't leaked a drop so far.
One last thing. The waterpump drive shaft hole in the timing cover. A Volvo B21 valve adjustment shim presses in there perfectly and then just seal it up with some epoxy.
Will
Will
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Im looking on summit I dont know what balancer to get. None of them say a difference between the 1996 1995. Can some get me a part number that would be great. I see that 1996 run a 3.417 and the 1995 is 3.516.
Im thinking that its the ATI 917274 from summit. And like rick says it comes with a spacer so I guess thats it.
They also make one in summit but do you think this is a good replacement. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51607/10002/-1
Im not too concerned with top brand products, Im planning on a 383 forged build that will get all the good stuff. This stock short block 350 Im running now will probly blow up.
Also I can leave the sensor (CPS) in place to plug the hole right? Or should I freeze plug that too?
Im thinking that its the ATI 917274 from summit. And like rick says it comes with a spacer so I guess thats it.
They also make one in summit but do you think this is a good replacement. http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/51607/10002/-1
Im not too concerned with top brand products, Im planning on a 383 forged build that will get all the good stuff. This stock short block 350 Im running now will probly blow up.
Also I can leave the sensor (CPS) in place to plug the hole right? Or should I freeze plug that too?
Regarding the CPS...Same answer as before...leave it. It doesn't intrude into the cover. You'll see that once you get your cover back and test fit the sensor.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
I'm using the 917275 balancer (pics are in my 383 thread). It's slightly underdriven (5% on the LT4, 10% on the LT1) but will work fine.
Regarding the CPS...Same answer as before...leave it. It doesn't intrude into the cover. You'll see that once you get your cover back and test fit the sensor.
Regarding the CPS...Same answer as before...leave it. It doesn't intrude into the cover. You'll see that once you get your cover back and test fit the sensor.
Thanks
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 15,344
Likes: 4,009
From: Texas
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 5,141
Likes: 7
From: Metairie Louisiana
How did they do yours?
Thanks
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 3,385
Likes: 4
From: King George VA
Did you get it back yet? I brought mine to an exhaust shop and they said they could not weld a 50 cent piece to aluminum. I got some aluminum stock that I am going to try and cut to the same shape then bring it to a full weld shop. I found a bunch in the phone book.
How did they do yours?
Thanks
How did they do yours?
Thanks
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 5,589
Likes: 0
From: DrunkDefender
CI 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8 Veteran
CI-IV AutoX Champ
CI-IV Burnout Champ
St. Jude Donor '07-'10
I used a feeze plug and JB weld. I paid alot of attention to getting the area cleaned and prepped first. I used some 150grit to rough up the surface on the edge of the freeze plug and the inside edge of the timing cover to give the epoxy a rough surfce to adhere to. No problems so far.