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My stock '88 had 1" of wedge on top of the spring in addition to, two aluminum spacers that totaled 3/8". The end rubber on the spring ends totals 3/8". Which should give me 1.5" of drop once it's removed and a protective layer added.
I needed 15" of height to remove the spring, measured under the tang of metal at the jacking point. Pic:
Man,
That looks familiar!! Finished mine a few weeks ago!! Can't wait for the before/after pics!
I also noticed your front spoiler/brake cooling ducts! Very Nice! How do you like 'em? I saw those in one of the mags and was thinking about getting one, since my old one is worn out!
I've heard a lot of people say to use 3" instead. Also this hose melts but it hasn't lost a lot and is doing OK still. 3" dia. of the expensive high temp silicone would be nice! And spindle ducts, I'm looking to buy or make some this year.
When I was routing mine I wrapped some black electrical tape around the ducting in case the tire rubbed a hole in it before I got it routed well. This helped in not getting any holes!
Interesting. My '90 spec Z51 spring was much flatter than the base suspension spring I removed...
Wow. Interesting. I didnt have anything to compare mine too but it seemed pretty curved. I had my car up really high and the spring still it the ground. Is yours an aftermarket spring or right off a '90?
I just got my spring out a couple of days ago. Like Aardwolf, I needed 15" at the jack stand to get it out. I had already removed the lower control arm on the passenger side which made it easier. I don't think I could have gotten the spring over the LCA ball joint stud had I not removed it. Also, when Aardwolf is talking about not reinstalling the spring protectors, he's NOT talking about the spring retainer brackets. Those have to be trimmed according to how much you remove from the top bushings (including shims) and reinstalled.
Kim, I cheated with the LCA and ball joint. It did stick up in the way. I put a rag under the spring on top of the ball joint threads then gave the other side of the spring a few taps to get it started past. Worked fine! Removing one LCA would be nice though because of that and working the spring free. I think the toughest part was getting the spring out of the LCA, it was really wedged in there. Plus it didn't want to come out over the boss for the end link.
StealthLT4, from what I remember the stronger Z51 spring is less curved.
Changed the oil while the car was up, the height is about what I would have it at to change the oil. So this isn't really very high up at all.
Last edited by Aardwolf; Mar 27, 2012 at 08:11 PM.
Wow. Interesting. I didnt have anything to compare mine too but it seemed pretty curved. I had my car up really high and the spring still it the ground. Is yours an aftermarket spring or right off a '90?
Mine is aftermarket but is an exact match to a genuine '90 FHB spring...same rate, ride height after install, etc. I had a genuine '90 FHB spring I was going to use but it was missing the pads on the spring tips so I ended up using the aftermarket spring.