I know there are many, many posts on pke probs on here but not many solutions if anyone has solved problems.

Last fall while driving my '94 the door locks cycled and then the rear hatch popped open, yes all while driving 50+ mph. Got home and all seemed fine. Then a few days later went to take another cruise and as I approached the car the locks started cycling between unlock and lock. It did this repeatedly and didn't stop until the remote was out of range. It has now been doing the same since then.

Bought a new remote from dealer a few days ago and it does the same thing (at least I got 2 remotes now). I have ripped apart the interior and have cleaned the door chime module and found all contacts good, it no longer sounds like a dying cricket. I also cleaned the pke module board, and found all connections good. Gonna try to check all the wires in the harness on Sunday. I'm guessing I'll waste my time doing that as it probably is the module but was wondering if anyone has had this same problem and found a fix as even the FSM does not describe these symptoms?

Thanks in advance,
-Dave

 

Dave,

Does your alarm work? Does the 'door ajar' dash light illuminate when the door is opened? Does the radio turn off when the door is openned (radio on, key off and removed from ignition)?

Likely none of the above answers are yes...

Which means likely it is your door switches...

The door switches are powered by the PKE module, but signal the CCM module. They are suppose to 'close' the circuit when the door is opened, and 'open' the circuit when the door is closed.

However, often they do not 'close' the circuit due to corrosion --or-- they intermittenly open/close the circuit due to water intrusion/contamination.

When these types of failures occur, it can cause all sorts of weird things to happen, including the hatch popping, and the door locks cycling. The reason is the CCM uses the door switches to set 'states' (events) and can get 'out of sync' with other events, causing all sorts of odd things to happen.

FYI, if you have the FSM, there is a CCM diagnostic section which can get the CCM (via the dash) to advise the 'states' of its inputs (i.e. the door switches). Otherwise, you can use the 'door ajar' dash light or interior lights on/off (at night) to tell if the switches are working when they should (although it might not tell if the switches are water contaminated and 'shorting' out).

Lastly, if your door switches are the problem, they can be replaced right through their hole (no need to take the door apart) -- also, beware -- the quality of replacments switches has been a problem -- so be sure to check their mechanical and electrical operation before installing them (true of either GM or NAPA brands).

P.S. I wrote-up a long winded post on this 3-4 years ago which might help too -- do a search for my id and 'door switch'..

 

yes to all the ?'s

Will check the CCM tom. along with checking for open circuits in the PKE module. I'll do all this per the FSM.

Checked the door switches had to clean the passenger side it was sticking but that has done nothing either.

I will definately look for that post, I think I came across it last fall when all this started but haven't seen it recently, I'll find it though!






Thanks admiral,

 

Can anybody tell me the locations of any / all the components of the PKE system? I'm not so sure it locks the car every time I walk away. I'm thinking cleaning the contacts can't hurt anything. Besides, the door lock hardware could stand to be lubed.

 

Sounds like you need an exorcist. Good luck!

 

Thanks, I'm currently driving away the demons. My garage however looks like a chop-shop.

 

Are there sensors in the doors, or is it the receiver in the dash that actually picks up the signal?

 

The only time I have had weird things happen with interior lights suddenly going on or weird locking behavior was traced back to the hatch sensor. Generally, I have been able to fix by moving the little plunger that senses when the hatch is latched up and down manually several times. What sometimes happens also is there is a little piece of velcro stuck on the top of the plunger (presumably for noise control) that slips away so that the plunger ends up not getting pushed in all the way by the thingie on the latch that pushes the plunger. You might check that.

Doug

 

There is an antenna in the drivers door and one in the rear of the car (coupe). The receiver in the dash receives the signals (thru the wires) and processes the information. The receiver obviously does not receive it directly the antennas do.

That’s interesting. With my hatch open the system does not care. If I walk away with the FOB the car will lock as normal. It does not care if the hatch is open.

 

There are 2 antenna in the vehicle for the PKE system (on Coupes) one in the drivers door and one on the back wall, under the carpet of the cargo area.


I have messed with the rear hatch plunger. I did notice there is no velcro on top of the plunger, however now that you mention it it does look like there is a stain from some glue or something on top of the plunger. I'll have to check that out in the morn when I get home from work.

-Dave

 

I have finally driven away the demons!! This car is clean. After troubleshhoting everything involved with the PKE system, drinking heavily, yelling, swearing and an emergency excorcism, I replaced the PKE module. Would you believe it is actually working the way it should.

If anybody has experienced the problems that are listed in this posting and need to have the PKE working as it should, replace the module. Enough said. I hope we've all learned something from this and I hope none of you have to experience what some of us already have.

Thanks to all who have read and shared their input and expertise on this matter. It is refreshing to know we have people like this to turn to for assisstance and advice from those who have been there and care.


Thanks,
-Dave

 

My PKE problem started about a year and a half ago. I don't drive my 96 very often so the battery died. When I charged it back up and drove it off down the road the PKE Light came on and stayed on. I thought this was strange so when i got home I tried to reprogram the system. It wouldn't reprogram. I went along not really knowing what to do about it and was at the cruise-in last year when Gordon Kilibrew was there helping folks diagnose problems. He used one of his jumpers to check the PKE module and he told me it was dead. I found a used module and have yet to install it. I guess the idea of taking the dash apart is a little more than I have taken on so I've been putting it off all this time. I do have the FSM so I'll get to work on it soon. Just wondering if there are any tips or tricks to make the job go smoother.

 

Use the FSM. Things come apart in a definite order and sequence. There is not one page that will get you to the PKE directly. Removing the dash pad is where to start but it will take you to different sub sections in the book to remove those pieces in those sections. In my case I had to remove a screw (head faces front of car) that held the center A/C vent so I could spread the dash out (a bit) toward me for a little extra room to get the PKE out (that’s not in the FSM).

The most important advice I can give you is go slow, take your time and don’t pull or push to hard. The plastic is 13 years old now and it can crack or break rather easy.

Have the right tools and keep track of all the screws using container cups.

 

Astro7,

"Dead" could also be the analysis result of no power or bad/no ground (likely Gordon determined the module was not communicating -- i.e. sending signals to other computers such as the CCM). So unfortunately, a broken wire might also give the same result.

Presume you've already confirmed all related fuses (based on FSM) are good, replaced or tested them just in case, and disconnected the battery to 'reset' everything (recall on our 94 there are at least 2 different power sources), but once you have it apart..

suggest before disconnecting it, back-probing the PKE control module wire-harness plug (see FSM) for power -- just in case.

Further presume you've checked all related grounds --

but again suggest once everything is disconnected (PKE and battery) to check the wire-harness plug for good (no resistance) ground on the appropriate plug contact.

Lastly, be sure to use a high-impedence VOM (in case you touch any computer leads) and to disconnect the battery negative cable BEFORE starting the disconnect process, to keep from harming anything else (e.g. CCM).

 

Sorry for the delay been pretty busy,

I must agree. DO NOT force things or overtighten when putting back together. Just get things snug, if they come loose later, snug em up again. 13 year old platic that has been heated and cooled gets very brittle.
Definately keep track of all scews. A cup is a good idea, but even better use ziplock bags and label them for each area of the dash you remove them from. That way you can put the correct scews back from where they came from. No matter how hard you try you won't remember where each specific one goes unless you label them.
You will have to relocate the center air duct to get the PKE module out. Also remember that the door chime module is velcroed to the top of the PKE module, this makes a tight work space.

Remember to reference your FSM and don't hesitate to ask if you have a question. I'll keep an eye out for questions and others on the forum are always a great help too. You'll have to remove screws from the top of the dash, the sides the front behind the radio/heat cover plate, the fuse area. Take your time don't get angry. dash defroster pops UP only to reveal 2-3 screws and passenger center vent (the non-adjustable one) pops out fully but be caeful while prying it out or you'll be payin $9.00 for a new one.

Good Luck, keep us updated. It's really not that hard just alot of steps, you must be patient and remain calm.


-Dave