383 blueprint engine?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
From: Morehead KY
383 blueprint engine?
http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint+Engi...30CT1/10002/-1
Would this engine work with in an 89 vette if I bought a vortec head base plate and used my stock tpi? Has anybody used this engine in there car?
Would this engine work with in an 89 vette if I bought a vortec head base plate and used my stock tpi? Has anybody used this engine in there car?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 252
Likes: 0
From: Morehead KY
http://www.jegs.com/i/Blueprint+Engi...0CTC1/10002/-1
or could i use this engine, it is the same, just with the carb and dressed up. Has anybody switched there tpi over to a carb setup?
or could i use this engine, it is the same, just with the carb and dressed up. Has anybody switched there tpi over to a carb setup?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Go'n 2 Surf City.. it's 2 to 1
I don't feel those engines are much of a buy for $3000...
For that price I would expect a forged crank, I always squirm
and question motives when I feel like something is overpriced.
http://www.ohiocrank.com
Go to Ohio crank and look at their Forged Steel cranks in 5140
or 4130 steel... 5140 is perfectly fine as most of the 60's
and early 70's SBC and BBC factory performance cranks were
made from 5140.. you don't hear of them breaking in naturally
aspirated scenarios... you're not spraying a 500hp shot of nitrous
or making 1400hp.
Bottom End:
1. Ohio Crank Forged Crankshaft 3.75 stroke in 5140 or 4130
2. 6 inch Ohio Crank Rods
3. Speed Pro Hyper or Forged Pistons, SRP Sportsmans, Probes,etc.
Your cost on the bottom end hard parts will be under $1000 before
machining and assembly..
Buy some Brodix IK180's or 200's to top it off with... you'll be
well under $3000 with alot more motor.
OR.. if you have a $3000 budget.. and are able to get machining
and assembly done for $500 on the above bottom end.
Spend $1500 on a set of AFR's... you'd then have a forged bottom
end with AFR's vs. a cast bottom end and Vortecs.. all for the
same money.
If you need good machine work done locally.. go to the local
dragstrip and talk to 10 racers about who does their machine work..
and who to stay away from... this should give you a good feel
about who does good work locally.
For that price I would expect a forged crank, I always squirm
and question motives when I feel like something is overpriced.
http://www.ohiocrank.com
Go to Ohio crank and look at their Forged Steel cranks in 5140
or 4130 steel... 5140 is perfectly fine as most of the 60's
and early 70's SBC and BBC factory performance cranks were
made from 5140.. you don't hear of them breaking in naturally
aspirated scenarios... you're not spraying a 500hp shot of nitrous
or making 1400hp.
Bottom End:
1. Ohio Crank Forged Crankshaft 3.75 stroke in 5140 or 4130
2. 6 inch Ohio Crank Rods
3. Speed Pro Hyper or Forged Pistons, SRP Sportsmans, Probes,etc.
Your cost on the bottom end hard parts will be under $1000 before
machining and assembly..
Buy some Brodix IK180's or 200's to top it off with... you'll be
well under $3000 with alot more motor.
OR.. if you have a $3000 budget.. and are able to get machining
and assembly done for $500 on the above bottom end.
Spend $1500 on a set of AFR's... you'd then have a forged bottom
end with AFR's vs. a cast bottom end and Vortecs.. all for the
same money.
If you need good machine work done locally.. go to the local
dragstrip and talk to 10 racers about who does their machine work..
and who to stay away from... this should give you a good feel
about who does good work locally.
