Person or company that can direct me to any place that sells headers for an 1985 Corvette I want shorty so I don't have the pain of welding or cutting my exhaust I have true dual pipes on right now through flowmaster 40 series But I am looking for a direct replacement for my stock manifold headers without AIR .

 

These hooker headers (2061) might be your only option. They are listed for LT1 motors but will fit L98 as well. In general, LT1 headers should fit L98's. Not necessarily the opposite though....

My understanding is the flange might be angled a bit differently (on these 2061's). Still they can be made to work.

There might have been an option/two listed on JCWhitney's website too. To be honest, you're looking for a piece that's unexploited. Trying to stay with storties, in order to avoid some work, may just create the work you seek to avoid.

 

 

FYI: On page 129 of John Lingenfelter's book there is a photo of a L98 header. Quote: "While the shorty 1 1/2- inch tubes may look wimpy, I use them in all my performance applications...."

 

what are the factory headers size? & are they the same as an 84?

 

yes, same size. The reason short tubes are hard to find is because their not worth it when you can get long tubes that are much better. Still, just about any aftermarket option is better than the stockers.

Are long tubes not an option for you?

 

I think they will bolt right on. You can remove the air. You can sometimes find them in our parts for sale section for around $50.00. I think they will flow just fine for your motor.

 

well if John Lingenfelter thinks they are fine then its good for me. lol My exhaust comes from the back and does a 90 degree turn up to the stock manifolds and the end looks like someone put a firecracker in it, along with the threaded 3 bolt female flange that is perfectly accepting of the stock manifold. Long tube heders would just make me break out the welder and the wrench set instead of just the wrench set.

 

There's a shop in CA that sells factory styled headers. Basically they are stock headers that have been mildly ported, rewelded and ceramic coated. I don't know if they sell them without A.I.R. Check McJackscorvettes.com.

Personally, if I could dump the A.I.R., I would go with long tubes and bite the bullet for welding up the collectors.

 

Anybody here feel like writing John and asking for a revisal? Or maybe we should just consider the superram's installation issues and take it at that....

To any beginner, this statement is laughable. No one would use stock headers in a 500hp application -- so he shouldn't have said "all" performance applications. (Or, maybe, the statement wasn't meant to stand alone Kool88?)

The stock manifolds neck down to 1 1/4" and have no business on a serious performance application. If you want to pull them, port 'em, ehone 'em, and use them where inspections prevent much else, then they make a bit of sense. Even then, a recommendation on power level should be included. (And, yeah, more duration on the cam's exhaust lobe can compensate for their lack of size.)

If you're looking to the experts, check out where Vizzard's break in exhaust diameter would fall for your application. It's much more scientific.

 

I didn't write the book. I just quoted Lingenfelter. He did have a bit of experience and nobody laughed at his advice. On the cover of the book, John Lingenfelter Is standing next to a small block with a Superam intake; the engine has L98 headers. The man knew what he was doing. Read about his life at this website: http://www.lingenfelter.com/page/lingenfelter-story.

I copied this from the website:
In 1989, John moved on to help set another record, this time at the Bonneville Salt Flats. Lingenfelter built a 355 CID Chevy V8 engine for the SE Racecraft 1989 Firebird Trans Am. This twin-turbocharged, fuel- injected small block produced 1,400 hp and had six nitrous bottles for intercooler cooling only, not for induction. The car’s driver, Gary Eaker, tried to break the 300 mph barrier with the Trans Am but after several attempts fell short of the goal. He did, however, still hit an amazing 298 mph, which set the record for full-body sedans at the time.

I'm not saying that everybody should run out and put L98 headers on their small block. I just think that the poster would be fine with the L98 headers. He's not trying to build a 500 hp machine. He did ask for info on shortys. I don't think he's interested in or needs longtube headers. And I have noticed that there's lots of crappy longtubes out there that won't bolt up right, leak and rust through in a few years. It's also possible to install longtubes and see a decrease in 1/4 mile performance. I've seen it happen at the track with a Corvette.

And Greg, you can't write to John Lingenfelter, he's dead. He was critically injured during an NHRA Summit Sports Compact drag racing event at Pomona, California on October 27, 2002.

 

See... even you don't want to say everyone should put L98 manifolds on their motor, so why post it? It was made in an era where equipment has less potential, right? Let's see if we can get Jennifer Love-Hewitt to ask him! Seriously, it would be interesting (for me) to know what context he wrote it in. One liners like that drive me crazy because of what people can/will do with them.

I did look at the OP's profile (before posting above). I'm not familiar with the Dart heads he's using. But if they flow well at all, I disagree with your recommendation -- at least w/o encouraging porting/honing to maximize their potential.

Also, the OP wanted a set w/o AIR tubes. And really, not enough info was provided by the OP to consider what's appropriate. How's the exhaust duration on the cam? What do the heads flow? Is the removal of AIR definite. Is the car raced? What exhaust is behind the manifolds? I felt it more appropriate to encourage him to look at the details of his car and determine what matches well.

In your defense though, I have made the same recommendation once/twice (with the porting/honing stipulation) but inspections were a concern. And, since the intake being used is a TPI, power above 5k rpms is limited on the intake side as well.

 

Johns stuff was marketed at being 50 state legal, of course the manifolds were used. Take a look on the inside of them they are horrible. Now if the motor were to stay bone stock maybe you could get away with it. imo 1-5/8 is the way to go with most 350s.
McJacks "ported and coated" are a waste of money, too. Shiny junk

 

355 4 Bolt Main, Dart200cc 202,160 Heads, 274/286 Duration 487/490 Lift Comp Roller Cam with Roller Lifters and Rockers, Accel Lower Intake and Runners, Ported Upper Intake, 58mm BBK TB, Accel 30LB Fuel Injectors, Walbro 255 LPH Fuel Pump, MSD Coil,Cap and Rotor, MSD 6al ignition and Msd 8mm Street Fire Wires with AC Delco Plugs gapped at .035, B&M Shift Kit, K&N Air Filter with Straight Inlet Tube (no accordion)with cold air intake, TB coolant bypass, AIR system removed and Bypass pulley installed, EGR Bypass, Cold Start Delete, A/C Compressor Bypass Pulley - system removed , TCI Torque Converter - 2000 stall, Stock 3.07 in the back. Stock manifolds with air system chopped and welded true dual exhaust through Flowmaster 40's (no cats). I think I'm starting to feel everyones point on the long tube style

 

I agree that long tubes will improve scavenging and performance over most stock applications. Just look at the manifolds on most cars. The older Vette had cast manifolds that are narrow and take a 90 degree turn. An older Vette will always benefit from any headers. I was just telling the poster about something I read in a book. Sometimes we spend lotsa money on aftermarket parts that do little or nothing. I still think that the L98 headers are a good and cheap shorty that will improve performance when it is replacing an older stock manifold. . Remember he did ask about shortys. I doubt that aftermarket shortys will flow much better or increase HP when replacing the L98 headers.

One thing I want to caution the poster about is the use of the smoothie air bridge. Here is a good example of an aftermarket item that is not as good as stock.

The smoothie will dry out from the heat of your engine. Over time it will decay. It can implode and debri can be sucked into your engine. I've seen photos of a cracked smoothie and the damage that it did to the engine.

 

I have been keeping a watchful eye on the cracks still have my accordion in the shed.

 

Got any idea of what your heads flow? (For header size selection, exhaust port flow is a good indicator.) If not, a lot of people go by exhaust valve size. Cuisinartvette probably has it nailed with his 1 5/8" recommendation.

Also, I assume you have a chip that handles those 30lb injectors? Otherwise, they are bit oversized for your current config. 24lb (FMS) are much more common with that config.

 

Be careful. The outside may look OK but if it starts to dry out and crack I would throw it away. I read that it can implode at WOT.