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I am replacing the opti spark on my 1996 LT1. The car has approx. 31k miles. While I’m at it, I'm also replacing the water pump, water pump seal, opti spark, and opti spark seal. I’m wondering if I should also replace the spark plug wires while everything is out of the way. The existing wires look new, no cracks, melting, or observed brittleness but they are 13 years old.
Although I have read some people have replaced wires without removing the water pump and damper/pulley it doesn’t seem like there is enough clearance to me. So, should I replace them or stick with the originals? If replacing any suggestions on wires that would last another 13 years?
One more question, while I have the coil out for testing I was thinking about drilling out the studs that hold it to the bracket so it will be easier to replace when it finally goes. What do you use to replace the drilled out studs?
On a side note kudos to all that have posted photos and explanations on replacing the opti spark. They have been extremely helpful. The suggestions for removing the damper/pulley were particularly helpful. Removing mine was a bear but half a can of PB Blaster, a 24” by ½” piece of black pipe, a 4 lb. hand sledge, and 30 minutes of turning and pounding took care of it.
While you are at it change the front crank seal on timing cover. timing cover gasket if shows signs of leaking. Changing the wires now is easier than if all the parts are not removed. When I changed my opti - replaced wp seal, both o-rings on shaft, opti seal, timing cover gasket, front seal and oil pan gasket. Lot easier to change them now than to have to to it all over again in a few years IMO.
For the relatively small amount of money, it would be foolish not to do the wires while you have the opportunity. I would also suggest replacing the radiator and heater hoses while you have the system drained down.
A new sepentine belt, opri, wires and plugs should be part of the project.
Flush the cooling system, then start the project.
Remove the knock sensors and blow the water out of the heater core, this way you would have removed all water out of the system and you'll have a smaller mess at the front.
Use distilled water and due to the fact that the system is now clean you can use dexcool or the green coolant. -Your choice
I will add spark plug wires, radiator hoses, radiator/heater core flush, and heater hoses to the list. (The list gets longer and $$$.)
I'm going to check the timing cover gasket, front crank seal, and oil pan gasket. I haven't seen any spots on the garage floor but will take a closer look. One quick question about the front crank seal; it looks like you would need to remove the hub for the balancer/pulley to remove the seal. I have several pullers including a jaw type and flange with screws type. I haven't done a fit check yet but I suspect the center screw on both will be too long to fit between the balancer/pulley hub and the steering rack. Is there a special puller that I need?
Some background on the opti since some asked, I have had some water pump issues that I beleive ultimately killed the opti.
Yup, definitely swap out the plugs/wires, while you've got everything out of the way. Don't forget the Packard wire looms and clips, too. You can order them online from Mid-America Motorworks (MAM).
For plugs, I like the NGK TR-55 in the Double Platinum flavor. For wires, I went with NAPA/Belden Super Blue 7 mm Premium Ignition Wires. O.E.M. length and fitment like a ****! Limited lifetime warranty, too.