Won't start - left stranded
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Woodlands TX
Won't start - left stranded
I had been driving all day. No problems until I stop a C-Store to get a coke. When I get back in the car it will not start. Turn the key forward, the dash and idiot lights do the "normal" thing but there is silence when turned to engage the starter. No clicking, no cranking, just silence. I have plenty of power and even attempted to jump it. I called Corvettes of Houston and they told me lock the door, wait fifteen minutes, open the door with the key and it should start. No luck. I have diconnected and reconnected the battery cables. Cleaned the key "chip". No luck....Help please.
Team Owner
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 20,293
Likes: 240
From: Summerland B.C. Canada
Sounds like a VATS situation. Do you have another key with the pellet ? If not, dry cleaning the pellet on existing key and try starting again.
http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/Vats%20Electrical.pdf
http://members.shaw.ca/dankai/Vats%20Electrical.pdf
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Woodlands TX
I cleaned the key using an alcohol wipe. Prior to putting the key in, the security light flashes. When I put the key in goes solid and turn to run, it goes solid. I have noticed that I can hear the fuel pump do it's thing. Still no crank. I have tried the disarm and rearm procedures without success and waiting does not seam to recycle the system.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Coram NY
I had been driving all day. No problems until I stop a C-Store to get a coke. When I get back in the car it will not start. Turn the key forward, the dash and idiot lights do the "normal" thing but there is silence when turned to engage the starter. No clicking, no cranking, just silence. I have plenty of power and even attempted to jump it. I called Corvettes of Houston and they told me lock the door, wait fifteen minutes, open the door with the key and it should start. No luck. I have diconnected and reconnected the battery cables. Cleaned the key "chip". No luck....Help please.
get an ohm meter measure the resistance of your key pellet, now remove the kickpanel on the driver side, follow the steering column find a thin orange cable with 2 wires (runs up into the column) disconnect the white connector (orange cable connects to a black cable.) on the orange side (that goes up the column to the key), put the ohn meter across the 2 pins, when the key is inserted into the lock you should see the meter jump to the resistance value of the key pill. If the meter still reads "open" then the ignition switch is not contacting the key pill
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Woodlands TX
I will have to go buy an ohm meter. Mine has mysteriously vanished and all the usual suspects claim innocence. I suspect the one that constantly crushes his hot wheels with a hammer. I take my key to the dealer can they test the key? If so and the key is bad, can they find the right key via the vin?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Woodlands TX
I am hoping it is the key. That would be the easiest fix. If it did not have an airbag I would jump right in replace the ignition switch with no problem. I presume this is a shop only type of job due to the airbag. Has anyone ever used one of the bypass plugs? I presume that is a viable alternative to replacing the ignition switch?
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Coram NY
I am hoping it is the key. That would be the easiest fix. If it did not have an airbag I would jump right in replace the ignition switch with no problem. I presume this is a shop only type of job due to the airbag. Has anyone ever used one of the bypass plugs? I presume that is a viable alternative to replacing the ignition switch?
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Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Woodlands TX
I was justing reading that on a website where some guy gives step by step instructions on making your own. Looks like I might just save time and better yet money and make my own. It looks really simple.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Woodlands TX
Regarding the neutral safety switch. I thought of that and moved the shifter up and down. I did not try starting in any other position than park. I will walk outside and try it in the various positions.
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 258
Likes: 0
From: Coram NY
but 1st make sure that this is the problem, because it could something like a neutral switch. the bag of resistors cost about $3.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Woodlands TX
Key to run position:
Fuel pump kicks on.
Security light goes from flashing to solid
Change oil light comes on and goes off
Various lights come one the information center and go off leaving only the battery icon (solid), service engine soon (solid) and airbag (flashing).
Key to start:
Everything stays the same except:
Airbag goes to solid
Brake pressure lights up on gauge panel
Brake lights up on gauge panel
The main display stays on. The radio goes off.
Fuel pump kicks on.
Security light goes from flashing to solid
Change oil light comes on and goes off
Various lights come one the information center and go off leaving only the battery icon (solid), service engine soon (solid) and airbag (flashing).
Key to start:
Everything stays the same except:
Airbag goes to solid
Brake pressure lights up on gauge panel
Brake lights up on gauge panel
The main display stays on. The radio goes off.
Last edited by hman1987; Mar 23, 2009 at 10:15 PM. Reason: More info
Max G’s
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,751
Likes: 78
From: Monroe OH
NCM Sinkhole Donor
If your dash lights did not go out, I'm compelled to think your problem is in your ignition switch or neutral safety switch. Try starting the car again and turn key to start and hold to start, keep your foot on the brake, and move your selector slowly back and forth from park to drive and back slowly. I know this sounds silly, but this is how I accidentally found mine.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,510
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
I had a similar problem with my 86, and it was the contacts in the ignition switch didnt complete the circuit with the key pellet.
get an ohm meter measure the resistance of your key pellet, now remove the kickpanel on the driver side, follow the steering column find a thin orange cable with 2 wires (runs up into the column) disconnect the white connector (orange cable connects to a black cable.) on the orange side (that goes up the column to the key), put the ohn meter across the 2 pins, when the key is inserted into the lock you should see the meter jump to the resistance value of the key pill. If the meter still reads "open" then the ignition switch is not contacting the key pill
get an ohm meter measure the resistance of your key pellet, now remove the kickpanel on the driver side, follow the steering column find a thin orange cable with 2 wires (runs up into the column) disconnect the white connector (orange cable connects to a black cable.) on the orange side (that goes up the column to the key), put the ohn meter across the 2 pins, when the key is inserted into the lock you should see the meter jump to the resistance value of the key pill. If the meter still reads "open" then the ignition switch is not contacting the key pill
The above is sound advice. But first check the easy stuff:
-disconnect battery and get uder car and check for secure connections on your starter.
After you have measured the resistence on your key pellet, here is how to decode the values:
You can also purchase plug and play VATS bypass from Ecklers and others. Just order the "Code #" from above table.:
http://ecklers.com/search.asp?action...searchHistory=
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 144
Likes: 0
From: Woodlands TX
Ok here's my plan of attack: (hopefully before the rain hits us today - T-storms predicted)
1. Take kids to school - in wife's uncool car.
2. Go get another key made (been meaning to get a backup and get the key code) - in wife's uncool car.
3. Rush home and try key (praying that it that easy but expecting the worse) - after rushing in wife's uncool car.
4. Go to Dr. Appointment - hopefully not in wife's uncool car.
If key does not solve the problem:
5. Drive home from Dr. appointment - guess what car.
6. Crawl up under the cool (but not running) car that is parked outside in the driveway in the rain (because she was towed home yesterday) and check the wires to the starter
7. If no problems are found, bypass the vats.
8. If still no start, think unmentionable things about the car that I would never actually do.
9. Look for support here in the forum.
1. Take kids to school - in wife's uncool car.
2. Go get another key made (been meaning to get a backup and get the key code) - in wife's uncool car.
3. Rush home and try key (praying that it that easy but expecting the worse) - after rushing in wife's uncool car.
4. Go to Dr. Appointment - hopefully not in wife's uncool car.
If key does not solve the problem:
5. Drive home from Dr. appointment - guess what car.
6. Crawl up under the cool (but not running) car that is parked outside in the driveway in the rain (because she was towed home yesterday) and check the wires to the starter
7. If no problems are found, bypass the vats.
8. If still no start, think unmentionable things about the car that I would never actually do.
9. Look for support here in the forum.
Racer
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 299
Likes: 1
From: Ottawa Ontario
I know this may not help you today assuming you don't have an ALDL cable and laptop but if you connect to the computer through your OBD connector under the steering wheel you can disable the VATS completely through there.
If I remember correctly it was only a checkbox to enable/disable it using tunercat.
I haven't been left stranded as my VATS has always worked fine *knock on wood but the first time it fails me I'll be hooking my laptop back up to disable it.
50.00 for a cable and 20.00 for the Y body profile is money well spent in my opinion. I've already disabled the skip shift and lowered the temp by a few degrees that my fans kick in.
If I remember correctly it was only a checkbox to enable/disable it using tunercat.
I haven't been left stranded as my VATS has always worked fine *knock on wood but the first time it fails me I'll be hooking my laptop back up to disable it.
50.00 for a cable and 20.00 for the Y body profile is money well spent in my opinion. I've already disabled the skip shift and lowered the temp by a few degrees that my fans kick in.
Last edited by -=Tom=-; Mar 24, 2009 at 06:47 PM.
