My 1994 LT1 M6 is beginning to show it's age I *think*.

Over the last couple of months, it's been registering low oil pressure *only* at idle, low enough for the *check gauges* light to come on. Yesterday I replaced the sending unit for the gauge, and no change. So, that was probably working correctly.

What confuses me is that the engine is making NO funny noises, no lifter noise, nothing, even when cold and first started in the morning. It has 178k on it now, and it purrs just as smooth as she did the day I brought her home with 65k.

Having said all that, I probably need to be ready sooner than later to do something, so what are the long block options?

I'm not looking for a 400-450hp 383 hot build.

A stock long block would make me happy. Not having much luck locating one via GM's Parts Performance site. The only thing Google turns up are race builders, which I'm not interested in. As of yet, the only *stock long block* I've been able to find is from NAPA. I've never used their long blocks before, so I don't know about the quality of them. I did verify they come with 4 bolt mains and aluminum heads, so the important stuff is covered.

Does anybody else have any suggestions that I haven't found yet? I've searched this site up and down and haven't found anything that really answered what I'm looking for.

Thanks!

 

http://www.jegs.com/p/Blueprint+Engi...23891/10002/-1

http://ncane.com/9417

 

Have you checked with a local reputable engine builder in your area to have him freshen up your current engine? you can also try http://www.golenengineservice.com/html/lt1_lt4.html
and look at the basic long or short blocks.

 

I would have the block you have rebuilt. These blocks will go surprisingly long mileage wise.

OR

There are some new short blocks for sale on ebay for $1,000 bucks, add some aftermarket heads, and there is a long blocks for $2,000.
I bought a used shortblock with cam and lifters, it has 98,000 and the cylinders have no ridge and feel and look like they were just honed. I think GM built these engines well.

Mobile One should grab a bunch of these up and say look, use our oil and your engine will go and go without grinding away.

 

Replace the oil pressure sending unit.

My 92 suburban still has the orig engine in it, with 270k miles on it last time I checked. Burns no oil and is just as strong as day 1 as far as I can tell by driving it. The oil pressure sender on that car is shot - I've replaced it 3 times !!!!! GM had problems with their senders, as you will be able to tell if you look up all the different part numbers they had for the same part, reflecting "improvements" which didn't work. Same basic sender as was on the olds quad-4 motor, which was the first sensor to fail on that little 88 Cutlass International I once bought.

Or buy a new motor.

 

Did that yesterday and it still reads low at idle warmed up. I'm wondering if the problem could be the oil pump? I read that they had a history of failure. The problem I foresee there is putting a new pump in a 178k mile engine, I might start getting a blowby/smoking problem.

Decisions decisions.

 

If your considering a replacement engine, pay up AAA and put some black tape over the warning light, when it stops going, call AAA and buy that replacement.

 

I still wouldn't trust the sensor. One I got from GM didn't work right out of the box. When I returned it that's how I learned, from the tech, that they had so many parts changeovers on those and they were notorious for failure.

I've heard you can pull the pan with the motor still in the vehicle. What a bonus that would be , if true. One could change the pump and at the same time change out the bearings. A well maintained motor is good for 250k miles or more, so a couple hundred bucks could get you through at least a couple years if your driving amounts are typical. Just depends on how much "extra" money one has. If you get a long block, I hope you get one that can spin 8000 rpm, that would be a lot of fun. Often its the pressure relief spring in the pump that gets weak with age and lots of folks put a stiffer spring in there upon installation.

 

GM was dumping LT1's for a song about a month back

Check with either Summit or a local dealer.

 

Come to think of it, if your oil pressure dropped dramatically and suddenly, you might be on the verge of spinning a bearing. Not intending to induce fear in you but I probably wouldn't run it until I pulled the pan. A running engine is worth more than one with a rod knock !!

Best of luck to you.

 

http://www.camaroz28.com/forums/showthread.php?t=652864

 

I wouldn't use the words "reputable engine builder" and Golen in the same sentence. Stay far far away from them.

 

Not anymore. I called the dealer today, and the list on the long block is $1800, but it's discontinued. My guy called a few dealers today that have them in inventory, and they have marked them up to $4500.


It hasn't been an all of a sudden thing. Just a very gradual drop. I'm halfway wondering if maybe the oil pickup screen is gunked up. I'm tempted to drop the oil pan to see what I see.

 

New oil pump 35 bucks.

 

I have some brand new NOS LT1 heads fwiw.