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Installed them, 12370839, on the 93. I felt remorse about grinding the drip tabs off the valve covers, those were probably the result of some engineer's PhD thesis. Hopefully he'll not be coming up with any more bright ideas anytime soon.
No spring change, engine has 99k. I figured if the valve train can't tolerate another 30 thousandths then it deserves to die anyhow. So far no problems, just a very evident raw torque increase at the wheels. I can no longer operate with the ASR on and go heavy on the gas without the system activating and the rear wheels have surrendered any hopes of having any grip. Manifold vacuum at idle (800) is 19.5 & @ 1500 is 21.5 in. The vehicle definitely requires less gas pedal depression to maintain a steady speed than it required even yesterday. I would have never expected this much increase in performance. Plus, the "puny" 22 lb Bosch III apparently were no bottleneck, since this performance increase occurred in their presence.
I'm thinking about doing this also. I'd probably do the springs at the same time though.
Silencio. Once of the advantages in GM's information is a quieter idle.
Stock springs are wholly adequate for a 0.030 increase in lift for an engine that doesn't rev beyond OEM pre-set. For the doubting Thomases, get a vacuum gauge, connect it and rev the motor. A vacuum gauge is probably the single most versatile piece of diagnostic equipment for detecting valve train issues.
Silencio. Once of the advantages in GM's information is a quieter idle.
Stock springs are wholly adequate for a 0.030 increase in lift for an engine that doesn't rev beyond OEM pre-set.
Thanks, the only reason I say the springs to is that I want to do a Hotcam later on. I'd like to do it all at one time but that ain't happening right now.
Thanks, the only reason I say the springs to is that I want to do a Hotcam later on. I'd like to do it all at one time but that ain't happening right now.
I think with higher-than-stock rpms, one needs different springs but my car won't see anything over stock rev limit. I make this choice for reliability as I don't want to join the club of guys with spun bearings. I got two sets of heads from guys with spun rod bearings recently, and now a third one locally has a 96 vette LT1 he's getting rid of for the same reason. I wonder why all the rod bearing failures ?
looks like they're stainless steel. Those are the best in terms of long-term lack of fatigue under stressing conditions. I put a set of crowers on my 454SS truck to keep guide wear minimized. Dont overlook to clean the gunk out of the fins on your heat sink for the coil / module. when mine quit, the fins were clogged with grime so air couldn't pass through. Those rockers look nice. It looks like you've also got the GM lightweight spring retainers but I could be wrong. If anybody cares, I weighed the "lightweight" GM LT4 retainers versus the stockers for LT1. The difference ? A measley 0.3 grams !!
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The headers are Exotic Muscle Long Tube's. Thanks for the heads up on the coil heatsink fins. I believe I cleaned it before I put it all back together.
The springs, locks, seals, retainers, and bases I bought as a kit for $250. Patriot Gold Extreme.
Here's some more of the rockers. These were also $250.
All of the above was part of my recent cam install.
Last edited by rickneworleansla; Apr 3, 2009 at 11:12 AM.
Rick, great writeup and pictures. Did you replace rocker studs, if so, to what? And did you have to modify valve covers to make the RR's fit? Thnaks for the advice.
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The headers are Exotic Muscle Long Tube's. Thanks for the heads up on the coil heatsink fins. I believe I cleaned it before I put it all back together.
The springs, locks, seals, retainers, and bases I bought as a kit for $250. Patriot Gold Extreme.
Here's some more of the rockers. These were also $250.
All of the above was part of my recent cam install.
Beautiful. Nice thing about those RR's is that it appears they come apart by removing the clips. My GM's lack that feature.
That looks like a nice spring compressor. Can I inquire as to what brand it is - I need one like that, not the junk in the parts stores.
Rick, great writeup and pictures. Did you replace rocker studs, if so, to what? And did you have to modify valve covers to make the RR's fit? Thnaks for the advice.
I used a pliers to break off the drip tabs on the valve covers. This is a requirement for them to fit. I also grinded some of the valve cover supports on one side of each cover. See link directly below. I did this first so I am not 100% sure this was necessary.
Beautiful. Nice thing about those RR's is that it appears they come apart by removing the clips. My GM's lack that feature.
That looks like a nice spring compressor. Can I inquire as to what brand it is - I need one like that, not the junk in the parts stores.
The rr's are rebuildable. Thats probably why the clips are there.
The spring compressor I used is a Moroso. It was a little expensive but it does 7/16, 3/8, and shaft mount rockers(with extra adaptor). It was much much easier than the rented overhead spring compressor I initially tried to use. The overhead type was unable to do the dual coil springs.
The rr's are rebuildable. Thats probably why the clips are there.
The spring compressor I used is a Moroso. It was a little expensive but it does 7/16, 3/8, and shaft mount rockers(with extra adaptor). It was much much easier than the rented overhead spring compressor I initially tried to use. The overhead type was unable to do the dual coil springs.
Nice. $ 82 from Jegs, well worth every penny. Thanks alot.
My car spins the tires in 2nd gear now if I stomp on it. Never did that before and the only change was the RR's. Tires were new last year and aren't worn much.
And this is why I love this Forum, everything you need to know from a guy who did it. Another great solution that goes into my library of "how to do things for Dummies". You are a good man Rick, thanks again.