C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

1 tooth off?

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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 04:51 PM
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From: Odessa Tx
Default 1 tooth off?

Is it possible to be one tooth off on the dizzy and the car will start up fine and timing will set fine, but once you drive it, for it to cut out and pop through the air cleaner tube? Ive tried everything else just wondering if I should see if im a tooth off?

One other question. I removed the egr. Do I have to reprogram something for removing it?
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 05:38 PM
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Short answer no. If you installed it one tooth off, but then set timing to spec that would compensate for the one tooth off and it wouldn't be one tooth off anymore.
You did disconnect the EST connector when you set timing?
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 05:58 PM
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Yes sir, I did disconnect the est while setting the timing to 6*. It runs just fine and the motor is all there when you "baby it" and drive it without getting too much into the trottle. But once you try to give it a load it starts to gain power and all of the sudden, it stops in its tracks and sounds like it sucks air. That is with the MAF plugged in. If I unplug it, it runs better on the top end and worse on the bottom end. I have replaced the MAF and the burn off module but still the same results....
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 07:06 PM
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Default timing

Try bumping your timing up to around 12 & take some WD40 & sptay around typical places for vac. leaks
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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ok I will try that....
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 07:21 PM
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I don't think you would even come close to getting it to 6 degrees being a tooth off...6 degrees is 6 degrees regardless of where the tooth is. If you have a vac leak, idle would be very erratic....try spraying around with starter fluid, you will find it very fast. My egr is disabled and it runs fine with no codes.
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Old Apr 4, 2009 | 07:35 PM
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No change of idle when spraying around areas prone to leaking....
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Old Apr 5, 2009 | 08:31 AM
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this sounds familar - i went through pretty much the same thing last year on my 85 - turned out that it wasn't a timing thing, but i had the valves on one cylinder too tight - i went through the distributor indexing and timing thing several times trying to solve the problem, without any luck.

i've adjusted hydraulic lifters now for probably 40 years, but my 85 gave me fits. here's a method that worked out great for me. i tried something a little unconventional on adjusting hydraulic lifters. one thing that always bothered me is the statement "spin the pushrod until resistance is felt" that seems a little too subjective to me. so i tried this: i set "zero" lash with a .0015" feeler gauge while slowly turning the adjusting nut. when i felt the feeler gauge grab, i was fairly confident i was about .001 from zero lash. at that point, i turned the adjusting nut 3/4 turn. if you think you might have a tight cylinder, give this a try - it worked for me...

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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 12:28 PM
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Originally Posted by buddylee432
Yes sir, I did disconnect the est while setting the timing to 6*. It runs just fine and the motor is all there when you "baby it" and drive it without getting too much into the trottle. But once you try to give it a load it starts to gain power and all of the sudden, it stops in its tracks and sounds like it sucks air. That is with the MAF plugged in. If I unplug it, it runs better on the top end and worse on the bottom end. I have replaced the MAF and the burn off module but still the same results....
Then there is no way you can be one tooth off. If you are one tooth off with the EST disconnected and when you reconnect it and rev it and the timing jumps up, you should be fine as far as that goes. Is the timing going up AFTER the EST is connected?
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Old Apr 6, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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Time for a fuel pressure check.....
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