Replacing shocks

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Apr 5, 2009 | 12:30 PM

guido7834

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 2,442

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From: SC

Replacing shocks

I am thinking of replacing my shocks myself. I haven't done it before, but it seems like a pretty straight forward job. One question I have is my FSM says before torqueing the rear shock, the suspension should be at specified height as shown in the"Trim height chart". What does this mean? Can't I just replace the old with the new in the same position?

Thanks.

Apr 5, 2009 | 01:28 PM

WW7

Le Mans Master

Joined: Aug 2007

Posts: 8,735

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From: WV

Just unbolt the old ones an bolt the new ones on. Sometimes the FSM makes things harder then they really are.If you want to torque them to the specified pounds thats up to you. There just shocks!!!

Apr 5, 2009 | 03:35 PM

guido7834

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

Joined: Mar 2008

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From: SC

That's what I thought. I wasn't so concerned with torqueing them, just what the FSM said about the height.

Thanks

Apr 5, 2009 | 05:39 PM

BAM92

Safety Car

Joined: May 2003

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From: Houston Texas

I have done two shock jobs in one week. I find it easiest to just replace the fronts with the car on the ground, wheels on. Got to bend over a little for a few minutes but that is it. If you are worried about the rear, with the car on jackstand raise the suspension with your floor jack until the car almost comes off the stands. Now your at ride height. Torque bottom bolt to specs then.

Apr 5, 2009 | 06:55 PM

guido7834

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

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From: SC

Now I guess I should put a jack under the car to support it when doing the front?

Apr 5, 2009 | 10:28 PM

BAM92

Safety Car

Joined: May 2003

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From: Houston Texas

Quote:

Originally Posted by guido7834

Now I guess I should put a jack under the car to support it when doing the front?

I just left car on ground. Leaned over and took off top nut to shock. Then using a 13mm socket and a long extension on the top bolt that attaches lower shock mount while reaching with the other hand and a 13mm boxed wrench, unbolted the shock. Then reversed the process. Like said above, did this twice last week. Now the rear you will need to jack it and pull the wheel to gain access.

Apr 6, 2009 | 10:39 AM

josephf31

Pro

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 579

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From: High Bridge New Jersey

A word of warning!

Quote:

Originally Posted by guido7834

Before you even TRY to remove the rear shocks, take some PB blaster and soak the crap out of both upper mounting bolts on both sides, give the frame near them a few good taps with a hammer, and let them soak for at least a day.

Then repeat the process one more time.

The reason for this is that if you (like me) don't do this, there is a very good chance that you will shear one or more of those top mounting bolts off in the frame, after which you will be very sorry.

There is no top side access to those bolts, they thread into a blind channel in the frame, if they snap they will be next to impossible to get out.

If you get them out successfully the rest of the car is a piece of cake.

Good luck.

Apr 25, 2009 | 04:01 PM

guido7834

Thread Starter

Melting Slicks

Joined: Mar 2008

Posts: 2,442

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From: SC

Wanted to post my shock installation update. Replaced my crappy Monroes with Bilsteins today. What a difference! Installation was easy thanks to all you guys that helped. Although I must say contrary to most opinions, I had a bit more trouble with the fronts than rears.
Thanks again