intake manifold gasket replacement
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 763
Likes: 2
From: Weston FL
intake manifold gasket replacement
alright guys I've taken the largest mech project I've ever done. I'm trying to fix an oil leak on my 92 LT1. The leak is finally id'd as coming from the rear of the intake manifold.
I've got just about everything appart but I can't budge the manifold. It won't move an inch. I've got the FSM and followed all the directions and removed all the bolt and connections. Is there a secret? something I'm missing?
thanks for the help since I'm an almost competent mechanic (I know just enough to get myself into deep trouble
)
I've got just about everything appart but I can't budge the manifold. It won't move an inch. I've got the FSM and followed all the directions and removed all the bolt and connections. Is there a secret? something I'm missing?
thanks for the help since I'm an almost competent mechanic (I know just enough to get myself into deep trouble
)
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Are you ABSOLUTELY sure that all the intake manifold bolts have been removed?
If you are, don't expect the intake to simply be lifted up. You will need to insert a thin blade, something like a thin blade screwdriver or a wide, thin scrapper in the area where the intake and block meet.
I usually insert it at the front China Wall area.
A couple of taps on the blade will break the intake free from the block, just a bit. Once you get that "bit" of clearance/opening, the removal continues by gently prying it up, a little at a time.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
If you are, don't expect the intake to simply be lifted up. You will need to insert a thin blade, something like a thin blade screwdriver or a wide, thin scrapper in the area where the intake and block meet.
I usually insert it at the front China Wall area.
A couple of taps on the blade will break the intake free from the block, just a bit. Once you get that "bit" of clearance/opening, the removal continues by gently prying it up, a little at a time.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Le Mans Master
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 9,715
Likes: 27
From: Kempner Texas
Be sure that all traces of gasket material and sealant are completely removed when re-installing the intake.
All mating surfaces MUST be absolutely free of any oil or grease.
Your leak problem is common. Over the years I've learned to use a method that will prevent the leak from recurring. I've posted on it here so many times I can't remember how many. One such post was within the past few weeks. You can do a Search to find it, under my user-name.
It involves dimpling the China Walls (I use a nail set) and the unside of the intake manifold to give the sealing something to "bite" into, using a 3/8" bead of sensor-safe silicone sealant on the China Walls and a very thin application of SS sealant around all the ports - intake and coolant and around the top side of the intake gaskets.
Use multiple steps in torquing down the intake - I use 35 ft/lbs, and go over the bolts many times - with an hour or so between re-torquing - until all the intake bolts hold that torque setting.
Install the intake right after applying the sealant; don't wait for it 'skins' over as some manuals recommend. If it skins over, the sealant may not penetrate any surface imperfections and/or the dimples.
If you need more advice, post.
Hope this helps,
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
All mating surfaces MUST be absolutely free of any oil or grease.
Your leak problem is common. Over the years I've learned to use a method that will prevent the leak from recurring. I've posted on it here so many times I can't remember how many. One such post was within the past few weeks. You can do a Search to find it, under my user-name.
It involves dimpling the China Walls (I use a nail set) and the unside of the intake manifold to give the sealing something to "bite" into, using a 3/8" bead of sensor-safe silicone sealant on the China Walls and a very thin application of SS sealant around all the ports - intake and coolant and around the top side of the intake gaskets.
Use multiple steps in torquing down the intake - I use 35 ft/lbs, and go over the bolts many times - with an hour or so between re-torquing - until all the intake bolts hold that torque setting.
Install the intake right after applying the sealant; don't wait for it 'skins' over as some manuals recommend. If it skins over, the sealant may not penetrate any surface imperfections and/or the dimples.
If you need more advice, post.
Hope this helps,
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 763
Likes: 2
From: Weston FL
Are you ABSOLUTELY sure that all the intake manifold bolts have been removed?
If you are, don't expect the intake to simply be lifted up. You will need to insert a thin blade, something like a thin blade screwdriver or a wide, thin scrapper in the area where the intake and block meet.
I usually insert it at the front China Wall area.
A couple of taps on the blade will break the intake free from the block, just a bit. Once you get that "bit" of clearance/opening, the removal continues by gently prying it up, a little at a time.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
If you are, don't expect the intake to simply be lifted up. You will need to insert a thin blade, something like a thin blade screwdriver or a wide, thin scrapper in the area where the intake and block meet.
I usually insert it at the front China Wall area.
A couple of taps on the blade will break the intake free from the block, just a bit. Once you get that "bit" of clearance/opening, the removal continues by gently prying it up, a little at a time.
Jake
West Point ROCKS!
thanks for the answers. that's just what I did and it came off. I was being a little too careful since like I said this is the biggest project I've taken on so far and I was afraid of breaking something.
I'm going to do another post with pics of the entire project when I finish
thanks again.
