Still have clutch problems
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 8
From: Morgan City LA
Still have clutch problems
hey guys, few weeks back i replaced my slave cyl b/c my clutch was engaging with pedal all the way down and wouldn't go into gear. well, it worked but there's still symptons that i don't know where the problem can be. here goes:
1. pedal feels good as long as you let it all the way out. lets say for example if you in traffic and you moving slowly and you kinda slowly letting the clutch engage as traffic moves the clutch will start to engage.
2. feels like it looses pressure until i let the pedal out and recharge it so to speak.
now i was told the master is going out. but i was also told that there's a hose that has a ball bearing that seals off and that could be the problem. i've checked fluid levels, i've bled and rebled and triple bled the line. any ideas?
1. pedal feels good as long as you let it all the way out. lets say for example if you in traffic and you moving slowly and you kinda slowly letting the clutch engage as traffic moves the clutch will start to engage.
2. feels like it looses pressure until i let the pedal out and recharge it so to speak.
now i was told the master is going out. but i was also told that there's a hose that has a ball bearing that seals off and that could be the problem. i've checked fluid levels, i've bled and rebled and triple bled the line. any ideas?
Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 639
Likes: 1
From: Brookfield CT NCM#522998
I know you bled the crap out of it, but it sounds like you've got some air in there! Are all the lines ok? Maybe you've got a small crack/leak in a hose; and did you completly drain and use NEW fluid? Old fluid will have water in it, and it will act just like youve got air in the system. How did the master look? Was the fluid all black and junky? Did you clean it out reall good and put in a new baffle?
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 8
From: Morgan City LA
hi Flynn, yup i drained it completely b/c i read up on what condition the fluid should be. and yeah it was tarry black when i first started having problems. i don't beflive the prev owner ever changed it. now, it still has some very small bubbles when i pump the pedal fast. but i thought once you got it close it would self bleed? honestly the master looks good and so do the lines. no signs of leaks around the master or inside the car. as far as a baffle what ya mean the blk upside down hat that catches moisture?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 5,139
Likes: 482
From: H-Town Texas
If you still have air bubbles, then I would think that air is getting in from somewhere. Is it possible that you got a bum slave? If there are no leaks in the lines, then maybe there is a problem with the seal at the piston area of the slave. Or, perhaps, and I'm just throwing out ideas, maybe there is some debris or some issue with the bleeder screw. allow air in but not fluid out?
Maybe try bleeding one more time?
Maybe try bleeding one more time?
Pro
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 639
Likes: 1
From: Brookfield CT NCM#522998
hi Flynn, yup i drained it completely b/c i read up on what condition the fluid should be. and yeah it was tarry black when i first started having problems. i don't beflive the prev owner ever changed it. now, it still has some very small bubbles when i pump the pedal fast. but i thought once you got it close it would self bleed? honestly the master looks good and so do the lines. no signs of leaks around the master or inside the car. as far as a baffle what ya mean the blk upside down hat that catches moisture?
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,363
Likes: 7
From: 1994 LT1 Coupe 6-speed with FX3 & 2000 LS1 Vert 6-Speed with F45 Hunterdon County, NJ
How many miles on your 1982 vette?
typical life of a slave is 50k and master is 100k (or similiar years).
So there's a good chance your master has failed.
However, also consider the new slave could be the problem (there been many reports of manufacturing problems with the later year c4's, even including reversed piston cups).
Suggest trying the other slave you have and see if any difference (esp since the slave is much easier to replace than the master).
What fluid did you use -- should only use the GM clutch fluid as it has additives to help air bubbles move to the master and to prevent a squeaky clutch pedal.
ALso, how did you bleed the slave -- if you bled it BEFORE it was fully installed, you may have damaged the slave (it can push the piston/seal into the rusty/non machined area).
Before install of the slave, ONLY gravity bleed the slave (hold butt up, open bleeder, DO NOT TOUCH CLUTCH PEDAL, close bleeder when air stops -- be careful to not allow master to go dry).
typical life of a slave is 50k and master is 100k (or similiar years).
So there's a good chance your master has failed.
However, also consider the new slave could be the problem (there been many reports of manufacturing problems with the later year c4's, even including reversed piston cups).
Suggest trying the other slave you have and see if any difference (esp since the slave is much easier to replace than the master).
What fluid did you use -- should only use the GM clutch fluid as it has additives to help air bubbles move to the master and to prevent a squeaky clutch pedal.
ALso, how did you bleed the slave -- if you bled it BEFORE it was fully installed, you may have damaged the slave (it can push the piston/seal into the rusty/non machined area).
Before install of the slave, ONLY gravity bleed the slave (hold butt up, open bleeder, DO NOT TOUCH CLUTCH PEDAL, close bleeder when air stops -- be careful to not allow master to go dry).
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 3,566
Likes: 4
From: Mt Laurel NJ
St. Jude Donor '06-'07
First replace the master and hose. All three should be done at once. Make sure to use the GM fluid, it works best. You can read about the clutch hydrualic system here: http://www.zfdoc.com
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 8
From: Morgan City LA
How many miles on your 1982 vette?
typical life of a slave is 50k and master is 100k (or similiar years).
So there's a good chance your master has failed.
However, also consider the new slave could be the problem (there been many reports of manufacturing problems with the later year c4's, even including reversed piston cups).
Suggest trying the other slave you have and see if any difference (esp since the slave is much easier to replace than the master).
What fluid did you use -- should only use the GM clutch fluid as it has additives to help air bubbles move to the master and to prevent a squeaky clutch pedal.
ALso, how did you bleed the slave -- if you bled it BEFORE it was fully installed, you may have damaged the slave (it can push the piston/seal into the rusty/non machined area).
Before install of the slave, ONLY gravity bleed the slave (hold butt up, open bleeder, DO NOT TOUCH CLUTCH PEDAL, close bleeder when air stops -- be careful to not allow master to go dry).
typical life of a slave is 50k and master is 100k (or similiar years).
So there's a good chance your master has failed.
However, also consider the new slave could be the problem (there been many reports of manufacturing problems with the later year c4's, even including reversed piston cups).
Suggest trying the other slave you have and see if any difference (esp since the slave is much easier to replace than the master).
What fluid did you use -- should only use the GM clutch fluid as it has additives to help air bubbles move to the master and to prevent a squeaky clutch pedal.
ALso, how did you bleed the slave -- if you bled it BEFORE it was fully installed, you may have damaged the slave (it can push the piston/seal into the rusty/non machined area).
Before install of the slave, ONLY gravity bleed the slave (hold butt up, open bleeder, DO NOT TOUCH CLUTCH PEDAL, close bleeder when air stops -- be careful to not allow master to go dry).
also i used fluid that was not GM but according to specs it met or exceeded the requirements. it was all they had available. might just bite the nut and change out all three. thanks guys!
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 617
Likes: 8
From: Morgan City LA
also, when i changed out the first slv cyl and had it in hand i pressed the piston and noticed that the fluid was extremely black and sluggy. do you guys think that contaminants could have travled up to the master and messed of seals/orings??? sorry for the newb questions guys.:o
