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Can a bad EGR valve cause a mechanical breakdown on a long trip? I get a code every once in a while indicating EGR problem. When I shut off the engine and restart it, the check engine light cancels meanwhile it runs just fine.
Can a bad EGR valve cause a mechanical breakdown on a long trip? I get a code every once in a while indicating EGR problem. When I shut off the engine and restart it, the check engine light cancels meanwhile it runs just fine.
I highly doubt it would cause a break down. Mine was bad, and it just caused my engine to ping under heavy accelleration. Not too bad of a project to fix, but you should be fine in the mean time. All it is for is emissions control.
I highly doubt it would cause a break down. Mine was bad, and it just caused my engine to ping under heavy accelleration. Not too bad of a project to fix, but you should be fine in the mean time. All it is for is emissions control.
You'll get poor performance, but not an all-out breakdown.
On the other hand, if it's throwing codes and you're in doubt, I'd replace it before taking it on any road trips. Even poor performance can make the trip a bummer.
In thinking about it...your EGR could just need a good cleaning. Carbon builds up where it mates to the intake and can eventually clog the valve.
Last edited by jimg's'93; Apr 26, 2009 at 10:27 PM.
There can be a number or reasons why you can get an EGR system code - many of which do not include your EGR valve itself. If you have access to the Shop Manual for your year Corvette, you will find a diagnostic flow chart that you can follow to eliminate the EGR system components that are working properly as you narrow it down to the faulty component(s).
You'll get poor performance, but not an all-out breakdown.
On the other hand, if it's throwing codes and you're in doubt, I'd replace it before taking it on any road trips. Even poor performance can make the trip a bummer.
In thinking about it...your EGR could just need a good cleaning. Carbon builds up where it mates to the intake and can eventually clog the valve.
Also, if you don't want to remove the EGR valve first, use a MityVac and a tiny mirror to test the vacuum operation of the valve.
The diaphragm on my EGR valve was dry rotted from years of engine heat wash, resulting in Code 32 being captured in my ECM. I replaced it with a new one, cleared the codes and voila! No more Service Engine Soon on my DIC.
Also, if you don't want to remove the EGR valve first, use a MityVac and a tiny mirror to test the vacuum operation of the valve.
The diaphragm on my EGR valve was dry rotted from years of engine heat wash, resulting in Code 32 being captured in my ECM. I replaced it with a new one, cleared the codes and voila! No more Service Engine Soon on my DIC.
You replaced the EGR or just the diaphragm? I've never heard of the diaphragm being replaceable.
I get a code every once in a while indicating EGR problem.
If the code occurs after startup it means the ECM is calling for EGR and not detecting that the valve has opened. This is either due to a faulty EGR Sol, EGR valve or EGR Temp Sensor.
Since the ECM doesn't call for EGR till coolant temp exceeds 175deg F and while "cruzing", a 160deg T-stat will "cure" the problem.
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Use the mity vac trick to see if the EGR valve functions.
If it doesnt move replace it.
If it moves replace the selenoid, remove the EGR valve and clean it. (Cleaning or replacing the EGR valve on a L98 is a lot of work)
If the code occurs after startup it means the ECM is calling for EGR and not detecting that the valve has opened. This is either due to a faulty EGR Sol, EGR valve or EGR Temp Sensor.
Since the ECM doesn't call for EGR till coolant temp exceeds 175deg F and while "cruzing", a 160deg T-stat will "cure" the problem.
EGR stuck closed can cause "Spark knock/pinging"....stuck open (depending on how far open) idling problems and/or hesitation. i'd be concerned about long term driving w/EGR stuck closed, if that's your problem. Anyway that alone won't cause a complete "breakdown"...ie "call a wrecker"
Use the mity vac trick to see if the EGR valve functions.
If it doesnt move replace it.
If it moves replace the selenoid, remove the EGR valve and clean it. (Cleaning or replacing the EGR valve on a L98 is a lot of work)
Good luck!
The EGR valve isn't too hard to get at on an LT1. Remove the plastic fuel rail covers, and you'll need an 8 or 10 mm wrench to loosen the two bolts that hold it on the intake.
The new valve should come with a gasket. Be sure you remove the old gasket material completely before installing the new one to prevent vacuum leak.
Can a bad EGR valve cause a mechanical breakdown on a long trip? I get a code every once in a while indicating EGR problem. When I shut off the engine and restart it, the check engine light cancels meanwhile it runs just fine.
You can get a new chip from TPiS that elimanates any reference to the EGR. THen you can remove the valve, solinoid, vac lines and exhaust tube; really cleans up the appearance and clutter, and eliminates many vacuum leak potentials; and install block-off plates to cover the holes in the intake, including where the exhaust tube goes in. May improve performance, won't hurt it, and you can still pass emmission tests if you get the engine really hot before its tested.
TPiS can also add performance to the chip.
No, it wont cause a break down if you do nothing. Dont expect good gas mileage or smooth running though.
Good Luck
I tried the diode fix on my 86. Didn't work, even had a electrical guy at my work double check my work.
So I did the pcm chip. Works fine now. No problems with running or mileage.
May improve performance, won't hurt it, and you can still pass emmission tests if you get the engine really hot before its tested.
TPiS can also add performance to the chip.
No, it wont cause a break down if you do nothing. Dont expect good gas mileage or smooth running though.
Good Luck
Not sure if it would pass here w/o the components. Even though I don't have to pass the emmissions test, they do look for the emissions components to be in place.