When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The last 2 days the car has started rough and I need to keep some constant revving to keep it from dying, the first couple minutes its really rough I have to keep it around 1500 rpms to keep it going and if I let off on the gas it'll eventually drop to 4-500 rpms and then die. The battery and the alternator both read the same values, 12.2-12.5v and the dash reads 11.5-7v when the ignition is in the on position and then volts match what the dash reads when its idling. I'm not sure if it means anything but the dash reads the car as half a volt less than the battery until the car is started. I checked the wiring again and nothing has failed at this point. The last 2 days when it starts up it runs really rough and after its warmed up some it runs smooth. I'm unsure if this is still related to the charging system problems but I'm probably gonna replace the battery just to play it safe.
Edit: Codes errors shown are 15, 22, and 32.
Last edited by dirtyrobinson; May 10, 2009 at 06:25 PM.
Dash voltmeters read low if the alternator is not charging the battery. Good alternators deliver 14.7 volts at the battery terminals, engine cold and this drops to 13.7 volts when the alternator gets to its operating temp. Dash voltmeters read 0.3 volts low if the alternator is charging because of voltage drop across the ign sw contacts (14.3 -13.3 v). Your alternator is not working properly at 12.5 v (I doubt it works at all). Use your ohmeter to prove that you have low resistance from the battery positive terminal to the alternator output terminal. Your ohmeter should read the same as touching the ohmeter probes together. See if you have battery voltage on the two red wires on the wiring harness plug that plugs into the alternator. Each of these red wires goes to a fusible link to the battery and have 12v on them all the time. Your dash red battery symbol light is likely on, telling you also that the alternator is not charging the battery.
Code 15 is the coolant temperature sensor circuit. Check for good wiring harness plug connection to the sensor under the MAF at the front of the engine.
Code 22 is the throttle position sensor. Signal voltage is too low, less than 0.2 volts.
Code 32 is the EGR circuit.
Any of these three can cause hard starting and too low idle rpm to continue running.
Also, I don't see anything wrong with your battery and recommend you don't replace it.
I had a simular problem and found it was the wire between the alternator and the starter, it was bad ay the alternator. When I took the voltage off the stud it was good but at the starter it was bad. Crimp at the alternator lug was bad. It's worth a check.
Good luck,
Woody