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Does anybody have pics of 6-point cage in C4 vette. I'm considering
buying or building one. I'd like to get as many infos as possible.
mounting points, what tubing to use..........
I assume you'll be only using the car for track events. It is important to note that adding roll bars to the front area of the cockpit should only be done if you plan on wearing a helmet whenever you're driving at speed. Otherwise, even with bar padding, a simple fender bender can turn deadly if your unprotected head were to smack into a bar. If you plan to keep the vehicle on the street a 4 point bar behind the seats is a better option.
For a track car, the standard is 1 3/4" OD seamless DOM tubing. You can use chromoly tubing for a small weight savings at a high cost penalty. Typically in a C4 the tubing walls should be 0.095 or 0.120" thick.
Like Brian suggests, check the requirements for the group with whom you plan to run, or a group who you might want to run with in the future. SCCA or NASA rules are a good guideline.
I have scores of pictures of my cage install, if you want some send me a PM with your email.
Good luck!
Last edited by ScaryFast; May 5, 2009 at 10:26 AM.
Thanks for the inputs. This is the type of cage that I had
on my mind:
Second type that I'm considering (picture below), would probably
be better (more rigid), but would also require cutting through the dash,
and I'd like to avoid that, at least for now.
What about those 4-point rear only cage that you mentioned?
Is it even worth to install (rigidity wise)?
I've seen that autopower offers race roll bar that can be upgraded to
full cage with weld kit (pics below).
Getting in and out with the one you prefer would be a major challenge.
Is this a track only car? For my six point it didn't matter about cutting the dash. It's similar to the second option with an additional low side bar that you can get over fairly easily to get into the seat.
I Typically in a C4 the tubing walls should be 0.075 or 0.100" thick.
I'm not sure about road racing orgs but the IHRA and NHRA specify that mild steel (even DOM) must be a minimum of .118 wall. Oval track rules mostly specify .095 or .083 but there we are dealing with entirely stick built cars that have lots of bars in them.
Will
Last edited by rklessdriver; May 1, 2009 at 09:32 PM.
Here's one of the other threads about roll bars and cages. Mine is the one with the red bar. The car was just back from the welder so the interior still looks pretty rough in the pics.
Thanks for the inputs guys. You've got some great cages.
This is not track only car, at least for now.
I think that I'll go with 4-point cage for now, and see
if I'll be satisfied with car behaviour.
From there it should be easy to upgrade to 6-point.
I'm not sure about road racing orgs but the IHRA and NHRA specify that mild steel (even DOM) must be a minimum of .118 wall. Oval track rules mostly specify .095 or .083 but there we are dealing with entirely stick built cars that have lots of bars in them.
Will
You are correct, I misquoted my thicknesses.
I should have written 0.095 or 0.120" wall thickness.
Just fueling the fire but has anyone seen the JEGS kits that they make for our cars? I was debating ordering the 4 point roll bar kit from them and installing it myself.
Just fueling the fire but has anyone seen the JEGS kits that they make for our cars? I was debating ordering the 4 point roll bar kit from them and installing it myself.
Not only have I seen the Kits JEGS offers for our cars, but I have ordered the 12 point cage kit and it will ship this friday. I will make sure to take a ton of pictures, and also write up the install for everyone. I am also doing a Narrow Rear Chassis that is in kit form and going with a solid axle 4-Link setup. My car is going to be a car used for Drag Racing.
Not only have I seen the Kits JEGS offers for our cars, but I have ordered the 12 point cage kit and it will ship this friday. I will make sure to take a ton of pictures, and also write up the install for everyone. I am also doing a Narrow Rear Chassis that is in kit form and going with a solid axle 4-Link setup. My car is going to be a car used for Drag Racing.
Nice! Do you have to weld the 4 point kit together or do you know? I would assume they come in pieces and you have to weld it all up. Will you be Tig welding your kit or Mig welding it?
The kit comes in pieces, and it is something that will need to be welded. I plan on Mig Welding mine. I have a Miller 140. I am going to do a full gut of the interior, and have started that process already. Since I am installing a full 12 point cage, I will be removing the windshield. Reason to fully gut the interior is that I am also installing Tubs in the back of the car. I plan on doing a Dynamat under the carpet, and then reinstalling everything back including the heavy power seats. I do plan on driving this on the streets from time to time, and on cruises.....
I will do a full thread showing the teardown, install and reassembly as time permits and will let everyone know what I think of JEGS Kit. For anyone planing on ordering one, no matter what the guy on the phone tells you, please read the ship times quoted on the website. The phone order takers have not got a clue on stuff like that. I know that the Corvette kit is not a Kit they have in stock, and they actually fab the kit as ordered. It takes them about a month to do the fab and ship it out. Reason I am told that it takes so long to fab is that they wait a little while to see if there are other orders and that they can set up the jigs for it, and do more than one kit at a time.
Again I will be more than happy to share my entire experience with anyone that wants to watch this car build.
I know you are making a post about this but I have already stripped mine down and was wondering how exactly you weld the back posts in. Do you have to cut holes in the floor of the rear hatch and put them down to the frame?
It does need to be a solid weld to the frame. Typically when doing a roll cage, you will take a piece of Angle (Typically around 2-1/2" each leg) and weld that to your frame. You will have the down tubes of the main hoop already welded to the angle. With my car, I am removing the rear hatch area floor, but in your case you can cut the holes needed for this, and then just patch them back. I would recomend taking a piece of 1/2" diameter hose, slitting it, and then putting it around the opening, and then using some sort of caulk on both sides to seal the openings.... 1. for water intrusion, and two to keep the fumes and tire smoke out of the car. I am sure that it will be more time spent fitting and grinding and all than it will be to just weld it in. I have put a few cages in, including putting one of them in a 69 Camaro, and the back seat area was still open, just a matter of fitting the tubing, keeping in mind bends, and all. At the time I was able to have full use of a hydralic tube bender, and a notcher. Now I am kinda on my own and doing this in the garage of my home. I am no longer working as a fab guy, but now design homes for a living, so this is a garage project being done by a guy who has little tools, but is not afraid to do what it takes to obtain my goals for this car. If it cost extra to do it right, then I put in the extra cash... mind you that just delays how long it takes to do the job, as the budget it tight for me. If I need something more... I just wait till it is affordable, and move on to something I can do that does not require that part.
BIGGEST THING I CAN SAY WITH ANY INSTALL IS TO TAKE YOUR TIME, TEST FIT EVERYTHING AND THEN GO BACK AND CHECK IT AGAIN BEFORE DOING ANY WELDING. MAKE ASSEMBLIES THAT YOU CAN WELD OUT OF THE CAR, AND TRY TO PUT AS LARGE AN ASSEMBLY IN THE CAR AT A TIME AS YOU CAN, BECAUSE WELDING IN THE CAR IS MUCH HARDER THAN WELDING THAT SAME JOINT OUT OF THE CAR.
I got a roll bar in mine. The Only problems I have with it is that it blocks my view in the rear view mirror and its hard to look behind you when you back up since it gets in the way.
The cage you are decribing is actually a roll bar, a cage has a "halo" under the roof. My 4 point bar was made and installed by S&W in Pa. About a year later they turned it into a 6 point cage. I use the car in SCCA hillclimb events and track days. The problem is not the door bars that get in the way of climbing in it's the non movable seat sides of a racing seat that gets in the way. Contact them about prices and installs. They modeled their C4 bars and cages from my car. They even had my 4 point bar powder coated before they installed it.
Good luck,
Joe