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when you reassemble this motor I wouldn't use any sealer on any gaskets involved with the intake manifold. I had good luck without it, however I would put thread sealant on "ALL" bolts related to the cylinders head and prior to this cleaning the bolts threads completely. If you are smart I would also "stud" the thermostat housing to prevent any issues in the future of those bolts siezing and use good sealer on the housing gasket (I found mine seeped when under pressure with the gauge)
this was the valve relief damage I was referring too. probably #1 cylinder correct? thats why I was asking if it had detonation issues at all. I'de really look at this piston for any cracks. just to be safe.
this was the valve relief damage I was referring too. probably #1 cylinder correct? thats why I was asking if it had detonation issues at all. I'de really look at this piston for any cracks. just to be safe.
OK, I think I'm with you now. The slightly jagged area on the piston indents on the upper right side of #1??????? That does look like it is different from #3 beside it???
I'll inspect these more this weekend now that I've got some time. What would cause this and the detonation issues in a stock engine?
OK, I think I'm with you now. The slightly jagged area on the piston indents on the upper right side of #1??????? That does look like it is different from #3 beside it???
I'll inspect these more this weekend now that I've got some time. What would cause this and the detonation issues in a stock engine?
L98 is a high compression engine what are they 10.25:1 hard to say if thats what it really is caused from, maybe just a casting flaw who knows. Maybe injector related, mass air, timing. I don't think it will be a problem though just make sure you get a new o2 sensor in there and some known good injectors and correct fuel pressure.
Guys, I started cleaning the block yesterday to get ready for new head gaskets, how clean will it really come? The original GM gaskets came off pretty clean but they were orange in color and even using a razor scraper it seem like the orange has embedded into the iron? I'm not worried about how long it takes me I just want it to be done correctly.
I'll try to post a photo when I have a chance of how the clean has gone.
I did get a better look at the cylinder walls and I thought they looked really good, but I'm not a expert on this.
another thing I'de do is towards the front of the engine in the lifter valley you will see two large holes at the front of the block. you can feel the timing chain in there. I would feel it for any looseness while your at it.
Also when my motor was apart if you look way on the back of the block where the bellhousing is make sure the wiring back there is still covered with it's plastic covering. My wires were unprotected back there when I took my motor apart.
I'll check the timing chain using the method you mentioned. While cleaning, I've got a good look at the rear of the engine and all my wire are still in the protective plastic split tubes so all looks to be in order.
I'm trying to focus on getting the block surface as clean as possible and get the intake and exhaust manifolds cleaned and painted. I figure once the heads are back those three pieces are the most critical of the build. I can clean and paint the runners/plenum/brackets later.
I'll check the timing chain using the method you mentioned. While cleaning, I've got a good look at the rear of the engine and all my wire are still in the protective plastic split tubes so all looks to be in order.
I'm trying to focus on getting the block surface as clean as possible and get the intake and exhaust manifolds cleaned and painted. I figure once the heads are back those three pieces are the most critical of the build. I can clean and paint the runners/plenum/brackets later.
brake cleaner and a brush works great on cleaning the TPI system, maybe some brake cleaner on the blocks deck would remove that orange stuff too.
brake cleaner and a brush works great on cleaning the TPI system, maybe some brake cleaner on the blocks deck would remove that orange stuff too.
I've been very careful to not let anything get into the cylinders, such as simple green, or anything I use, but I guess most of the brake cleaner stuff will evaporate quickly if I spray too much.
Is it normal for the Plenum to have a shiny dark film inside? I'm guessing it's oil from the passenger side valve cover hose that runs to the throttle body.
I guess normal depends on the use, mileage and other factors. Mine has a good film of brown material in the plenum as well, I figure with 79K miles that is was probably normal to see that but I've clean about 85% of it out.
I guess normal depends on the use, mileage and other factors. Mine has a good film of brown material in the plenum as well, I figure with 79K miles that is was probably normal to see that but I've clean about 85% of it out.
Did you remove it to clean it? I'm thinking of just leaving it be. I do plan on removing the throttle body to clean that out real good. Then I'm gonna pull the valve covers to replace the gaskets, and repaint the covers. I noticed some oil on top of some of the spark plug wires and threads. So, I say alot of the gunk around the valve covers is from oil seaping past the valve cover gaskets.
Where would all the gunk be coming from that is on the wire harness right behind the distributor? I'm hoping I'm not having and coolant leaking out.
Trying to get gaskets for the rebuild, There seems to be quite a bit of debate on the ones to use.
At my local parts store the Fel-Pro model that is recommended for the car is Q7733PT2, that number is nothing like the 1003 that was discussed here or one other that I've seen mentioned????
I'm seeing that there might be a Fel-Pro and a Fel-Pro Performance line? Is that the difference? The information on the Fel-Pro Q7733PT2 is that it is the OEM replacement.
New LT4 springs
New retainers
New valve seals
Performance valve job
Guides checked out fine
Heads planed
New PRW 1.6 rockers
Looks much better now!
They did a little "polish" around the intake valves, you can barely see this. Just on the side of the chamber it is smoothed from the rough casting, they said they do this on many of there heads improves the flow/performance. I guess we'll see soon enough!
dam nice! your going to be glad you went the extra mile and had them done. Make sure you get the correct plugs for it as well, standard length chevy plugs wont go all the way into the chamber like the correct ones do.
Last edited by jeffp1167; May 23, 2009 at 08:08 AM.
As far as plugs I always get a standard replacement for an 89 never thought about the length of the plug, I'll have to look at what I've been using.
I do feel better doing the heads especially they said one was a bit bowed, so now things are nice and flat.
Yeah, I just got the standard AC-Delco plugs for 89 with aluminum heads. By the way, are standard AC-Delco plugs supposed to rust? A few months or something after I had my plugs installed, I was looking at the base of them where the plug wires are at, and it is all rusted.
By the way, are standard AC-Delco plugs supposed to rust? A few months or something after I had my plugs installed, I was looking at the base of them where the plug wires are at, and it is all rusted.
A little rust I've seen on occasion but if your seeing a lot of rust especially localize to a particular plug that sounds like something to look at.