Ok, I had to eat my own words. I caught that at the last minute.
Clean them up and bolt them on 
How does this L98 look
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
How does this L98 look
OK, I've got the valve covers and intake off now and I'm ready to clean, paint, and get ready for assembly. I would like to know from experts out there if they see anything in these photos that are alarming?
Engine is bone stock with 78K miles. I broke it down for new intake gaskets, coolant hoses, injectors, etc.
Other than plenty of dirt I think things look OK, but I haven't cracked open a V8 in about 20 years
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...tteEngineWork#
UPDATE 5/14
I have the head off now so I'm really interested in what anyone can see. The internals of the cylinders especially the heads are dirtier than I would have expected. I think I'm glad I pulled the heads now!
Here are a couple shots, you can see more at the link above.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...66022396012162
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...66025707092498
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...66001265353522
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...66023867871666
I'm no expert on valves but I think those exhaust valves look rough??? Going to the machine shop tomorrow.
Engine is bone stock with 78K miles. I broke it down for new intake gaskets, coolant hoses, injectors, etc.
Other than plenty of dirt I think things look OK, but I haven't cracked open a V8 in about 20 years
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...tteEngineWork#
UPDATE 5/14
I have the head off now so I'm really interested in what anyone can see. The internals of the cylinders especially the heads are dirtier than I would have expected. I think I'm glad I pulled the heads now!
Here are a couple shots, you can see more at the link above.
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...66022396012162
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...66025707092498
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...66001265353522
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...66023867871666
I'm no expert on valves but I think those exhaust valves look rough??? Going to the machine shop tomorrow.
Last edited by Dolfan; May 14, 2009 at 10:25 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Made In America
St. Jude Donor '10-'11
A little rust, a little sludge. A few cycles with synthetic and it will be clean as a whistle. Maybe a few extra leaks though.
Honestly, it's hard to tell damage by just looking at the top of the motor. Even harder by pics. *I* see nothing jagged, broken. Like I said a little rust and sludge but hell, if your TPI is running good, LEAVE IT! Believe me, you don't wanna distrub it. It's been hell for me.
2 spun bearins 2 separate times.
I do commend you on you decided to go ahead and replace those injectors and gaskets. Now that was a smart decision!
Preventitive maintenance is the key!
Honestly, it's hard to tell damage by just looking at the top of the motor. Even harder by pics. *I* see nothing jagged, broken. Like I said a little rust and sludge but hell, if your TPI is running good, LEAVE IT! Believe me, you don't wanna distrub it. It's been hell for me.
2 spun bearins 2 separate times. I do commend you on you decided to go ahead and replace those injectors and gaskets. Now that was a smart decision!
Preventitive maintenance is the key!
Pro
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 509
Likes: 8
From: Livonia Michigan
OK, I've got the valve covers and intake off now and I'm ready to clean, paint, and get ready for assembly. I would like to know from experts out there if they see anything in these photos that are alarming?
Engine is bone stock with 78K miles. I broke it down for new intake gaskets, coolant hoses, injectors, etc.
Other than plenty of dirt I think things look OK, but I haven't cracked open a V8 in about 20 years
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...tteEngineWork#
Engine is bone stock with 78K miles. I broke it down for new intake gaskets, coolant hoses, injectors, etc.
Other than plenty of dirt I think things look OK, but I haven't cracked open a V8 in about 20 years
http://picasaweb.google.com/mike.c.m...tteEngineWork#
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Motorcity, that is a good idea. I just got tired of putting off the job and jacked up the car and got started a week ago. The plenum was pretty ugly carbon greasy looking mess.
I'm not looking to take the head off, I know that would be nice in some ways but if I do that then I know I'll have head work done, valve job, springs, etc. That wil raise the budget and this car doesn't see the harsh use it did a few years back. I've got an 04 Z06 that gets the track days and autoX use. This car just cruises, I'm just looking for a nice smooth strong runner.
That is why I figure new injectors, all new gaskets and hoses, replace the cat with high flow, and maybe roller rockers. Should make things run smooth and a bit stronger.
I'm not looking to take the head off, I know that would be nice in some ways but if I do that then I know I'll have head work done, valve job, springs, etc. That wil raise the budget and this car doesn't see the harsh use it did a few years back. I've got an 04 Z06 that gets the track days and autoX use. This car just cruises, I'm just looking for a nice smooth strong runner.
That is why I figure new injectors, all new gaskets and hoses, replace the cat with high flow, and maybe roller rockers. Should make things run smooth and a bit stronger.
Pro
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 549
Likes: 2
From: Bardstown ( Bourbon capitol of the world ) KY ( The Bluegrass state )
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Safety Car
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From: Made In America
St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
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From: Atlanta Ga
OK. my ignorance what is the rotor button???? Thought that might be a joke like on a construction site when you send the new guy out for a "plank stretcher" or a "bucket of steam"
Rotor button?
Rotor button?
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
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From: Atlanta Ga
And it looks like everyone thinks I should pull the heads even if it is onlt to clean up the heads and replace the gaskets!
I guess the I can see that but not sure I'm up to it with all the accessories on the front that have to be removed???? Gotta think on this one.
I guess the I can see that but not sure I'm up to it with all the accessories on the front that have to be removed???? Gotta think on this one.
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Made In America
St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Safety Car
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,966
Likes: 4
From: Made In America
St. Jude Donor '10-'11
Head gaskets are more than just replacing gaskets. L98s blowing them out is common. Had one in my jeep blow out. Killed the motor. Don't co cheap on the gaskets either. I prefer Fel-Pro myself.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
If the heads and gaskets are fine, I wouldn't mess with them. You don't have enough miles on it to go that far. If you had 105,000 miles, I would say go ahead. If your car only has 78K in 22 years, you're not driving it enough. mine has 142,000, and is way cleaner than yours.
I would replace the valve stem seals though, and change oil more often.
The thing about these engines,,,,,If they are clean inside, they seem to run forever. If you kept the temps down to 235, I wouldn't pull the head unless there is a gasket problem.
the worst thing about pulling the heads now, is pulling the coolant drain plug on the side of the block. Otherwise, you will have water in the cylinders, and maybe a little in the oil.
If you are going that far, change the oil anyway, and keep changing it when it looks dirty, not black. If you go by the black thing, it's too late.
You seem to have a bit of rust in the lifter area. You might make sure if you start and run it, you have it running for at least 30 minutes before you shut it off. That way, the moisture that accumulates can vaporize and go away, leaving the engine without condensation to screw things up.
I would replace the valve stem seals though, and change oil more often.
The thing about these engines,,,,,If they are clean inside, they seem to run forever. If you kept the temps down to 235, I wouldn't pull the head unless there is a gasket problem.
the worst thing about pulling the heads now, is pulling the coolant drain plug on the side of the block. Otherwise, you will have water in the cylinders, and maybe a little in the oil.
If you are going that far, change the oil anyway, and keep changing it when it looks dirty, not black. If you go by the black thing, it's too late.
You seem to have a bit of rust in the lifter area. You might make sure if you start and run it, you have it running for at least 30 minutes before you shut it off. That way, the moisture that accumulates can vaporize and go away, leaving the engine without condensation to screw things up.
Last edited by coupeguy2001; May 3, 2009 at 02:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
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From: Atlanta Ga
I'm a bit surprised about the interior condition as I've run mobil1 for the past 15yr or so? I typically change the oil about every 3k or so, now sometimes that is once a year as I don't drive it as much.
I guess I could run a compression test on it and if all checks out with that then I could assume to some degree that the head gasket is still in good order?
Oh and rotor button.......I always call that the rotor, that's why I was confused.
I guess I could run a compression test on it and if all checks out with that then I could assume to some degree that the head gasket is still in good order?
Oh and rotor button.......I always call that the rotor, that's why I was confused.
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From: Yucaipa CA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
btw, your coolant passages seem too orange. If you are using dexcool, that may be normal, but if you are using prestone, they should be green.
If the orange is rust from the block, add more antifreeze, and if you don't drive it that much, the added antifreeze will be a rust preventative.
Don't go 100% coolant, just add maybe an extra half gallon instead of water.
When I bought a 89 engine from a wrecking yard, I went to all the cars that had engines in them, and picked the one that had a green water outlet in the throat of the outlet. I knew that person had taken good care of the engine.
Inaddition, when I pulled the dipstick, the oil had recently been changed.
When I asked about the engine, the proprietor told me that the car had been sittin in his yard for over a year.
When I got it home, and tore it down, I realized that I didn't have to tear it apart. it would have gone another 50,000 miles or so before I would have had to do anything to it.
In addition, there was a mobil 1 sticker near the oil cap, and the engine had 105,000 miles on it.
If the orange is rust from the block, add more antifreeze, and if you don't drive it that much, the added antifreeze will be a rust preventative.
Don't go 100% coolant, just add maybe an extra half gallon instead of water.
When I bought a 89 engine from a wrecking yard, I went to all the cars that had engines in them, and picked the one that had a green water outlet in the throat of the outlet. I knew that person had taken good care of the engine.
Inaddition, when I pulled the dipstick, the oil had recently been changed.
When I asked about the engine, the proprietor told me that the car had been sittin in his yard for over a year.
When I got it home, and tore it down, I realized that I didn't have to tear it apart. it would have gone another 50,000 miles or so before I would have had to do anything to it.
In addition, there was a mobil 1 sticker near the oil cap, and the engine had 105,000 miles on it.
Race Director
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 14,130
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Cruise-In II Veteran
Find a machine shop that can hot tank/steam your intake parts.It will look brand NEW when they are done.I did that to my old TPI parts,dropped them off and got them back later that day.I was like they looked incredible!
It may cost between 25-50 bucks to get it done,but they will look brand new when you get it back.You cannot clean them this good at home without hours of elbow grease and scrubbing.
they looked incredible!It may cost between 25-50 bucks to get it done,but they will look brand new when you get it back.You cannot clean them this good at home without hours of elbow grease and scrubbing.