C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

How does this L98 look

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Old May 3, 2009 | 06:18 PM
  #21  
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Well, I am considering the 1.6 RR's stil on the fence!

I do run Prestone, I'm removing all coolant lines even those on the oil filter cooler, want all 20 year old hoses gone, so I will get all the old coolant out. I can go with what ever I want then?

I think I've decided to not pull the heads, it's not going to see high RPM just cruising around town.

I just took all the intake/runners/plenum/valve covers up to a car wash and used the engine cleaning setting. Holy crap looked like Simple Green meets Prestone meets Solylent Green!!!!! Ran them through a couple cycles then with high pressure water and they cleaned up good. Now I've got to get them preped for painting.
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Old May 3, 2009 | 11:17 PM
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Good to hear you were able to clean them yourself.I took my parts to the car wash using the high pressure wash hose and it didnt get all the grime out of it,even with cleaning chemicals.I had better results with the machine shop hot tanks.I guess my parts were filthier than yours.

This was quite a few years ago though...dont have the Vette anymore,but I take my other car parts to the shop when I need them hot tanked and steamed.I can never get them looking that new.

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Old May 4, 2009 | 09:35 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
...I think I've decided to not pull the heads, it's not going to see high RPM just cruising around town...
You made the right call from my perspective. L98s blow head gaskets as often as any other engine that is not properly maintained or abused. Your head gaskets should be fine.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 10:31 AM
  #24  
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I agree the hot tanking would be a good idea, but I'm looking at this as I just cleaned these things with the car wash and probably got 90-95% of the gunk, that is WAY ahead of where I was!

The one thing I think I'll do to clean more of the engine area,like around the heads and timing cover is to use a garden sprayer with water/simple green, but I'll get close to boiling water in it to really try to cut through the remain exterior gunk.

I now need to turn to all the coolant lines and get those all off, even the ones on the oil cooler as that is how this entire thing got started, I want all new hoses everywhere, no 20yr old hoses for me.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 01:30 PM
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I just had a TPI apart to this same level. I was swapping injectors on it. While I had it apart I did a small port job on the runners and intake. There are a lot of BIG casting flaws in these intakes. Also a good time to replace the EGR if you are keeping all the emissions equip. intact.

Just make sure to not get water in the ports while cleaning. Some of that painters tape that doesnt leave residue works good for this kind of thing.

Good luck!
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Old May 4, 2009 | 03:26 PM
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Where is the EGR, is that on the intake under the plenum?

I too was thinking to do a light porting to remove a few of the large casting areas.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 03:50 PM
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I have some video footage, however stupid that sounds, of porting the plenum and runners if you pm me your email.

The egr is the big contraption in the center of the intake under the plenum. It has a vacuum hose running to it and is kind of a golden color.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 03:51 PM
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Oh also cleaning the EGR port out can help a lot, the one I worked on had 200k miles on it and it was DIRTY!
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Old May 4, 2009 | 05:07 PM
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I thought that was the EGR, I did clean out that port area at the car wash with the high pressure so I think it will breath much better. Given that I've always passed emission with flying colors I would guess the EGR is working OK.

I'll have to gauge if $40 on a no speed/power change is worth it. I'm a fan of preventive maintenacne but I've been doing a lot in that area with this project.
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Old May 4, 2009 | 05:47 PM
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Looking at your pics the rust on the pushrods and the lifter spider concerns me. Maybe just an intake gasket leak into the lifter valley. Hard to tell by the pics.
Is the car normaly brought up to proper operating temp long enough to burn off condensation in the oil? What temp t-stat were you running?
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Old May 4, 2009 | 08:51 PM
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nutz4c4: The car gets mixed use sometimes a run to the office that get well into operating temp drive in ATL traffic, other days it is just a short 8-10 miles run where it probably just get to temp.

The stat was factory or last intake job at GM around 1994. I just picked up a new 180 stat for the assembly.

What is the lifter spider?
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Old May 5, 2009 | 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
nutz4c4: The car gets mixed use sometimes a run to the office that get well into operating temp drive in ATL traffic, other days it is just a short 8-10 miles run where it probably just get to temp.

The stat was factory or last intake job at GM around 1994. I just picked up a new 180 stat for the assembly.

What is the lifter spider?
The lifter spider is the gizmo the pushrods go into thats bolted to the block. It keeps the lifters from turning
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Old May 5, 2009 | 09:42 AM
  #33  
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I also wonder why the moisture. I started this job due to periodic low coolant light without a sure place where I was seeing coolant, At a GM shop day through my NCCC club a GM tech noted that the intake needed the gaskets replaced and figured it was involved with the whole thing.

If I installed roller rockers, which I'm debating, I could pull the push rods and clean them up, or maybe just replace as that won't break the bank, maybe $50 or so.

Damn, once you open it up it is a slippery slope of doing more, more, more.
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Old May 5, 2009 | 09:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
Damn, once you open it up it is a slippery slope of doing more, more, more.
The story of my life...
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Old May 5, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #35  
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why does the intake port valve area on the 7th cylinder look so white colored compared to the others, does it have a bad injector?
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Old May 5, 2009 | 12:40 PM
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Very interesting about the port, not sure which is 7 off the top of my head, but I can tell you that when I did the Ohm test on the injectors I had one that read 3 while all others were at 16.5, so I did have one having an issue for sure. I have the Ohm reading written down at home so I can't remember which one that was either.

Which photo did you see the white area?
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Old May 5, 2009 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
Very interesting about the port, not sure which is 7 off the top of my head, but I can tell you that when I did the Ohm test on the injectors I had one that read 3 while all others were at 16.5, so I did have one having an issue for sure. I have the Ohm reading written down at home so I can't remember which one that was either.

Which photo did you see the white area?
picture 3
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Old May 5, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dolfan
I thought that was the EGR, I did clean out that port area at the car wash with the high pressure so I think it will breath much better. Given that I've always passed emission with flying colors I would guess the EGR is working OK.

I'll have to gauge if $40 on a no speed/power change is worth it. I'm a fan of preventive maintenacne but I've been doing a lot in that area with this project.
also clean the egr ports in the plenum, you will see them just behind the throttle bore openings.
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Old May 5, 2009 | 05:01 PM
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I did hit the plenum at the same time at the car wash so I think I got that area good too! I did all parts from the intake up, and the valve covers.
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Old May 5, 2009 | 05:21 PM
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Delete the EGR and you wont have to worry about it getting dirty or failing. Plus it looks alot nicer with the clean delete plates.
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