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I just bought a '96 LT4 6-speed coupe. I'm going to use it as a track day car. It has the stock wheels, which are 17" x 8.5" front, and 17" x 9.5" rear. I want to run Nitto NT-01 R-compound tires on the race track (road courses). The biggest tire Nitto makes that fits on the 9.5" wide rear is a 275/40/17, so I don't have any choice there. But for the fronts, I have 2 choices: 245/45/17, or 255/40/17. Which size should I buy for the front and why? Thanks.
I just bought a '96 LT4 6-speed coupe. I'm going to use it as a track day car. It has the stock wheels, which are 17" x 8.5" front, and 17" x 9.5" rear. I want to run Nitto NT-01 R-compound tires on the race track (road courses). The biggest tire Nitto makes that fits on the 9.5" wide rear is a 275/40/17, so I don't have any choice there. But for the fronts, I have 2 choices: 245/45/17, or 255/40/17. Which size should I buy for the front and why? Thanks.
Unless you are dead set on running stock wheels and NT-01's(with their limited 18" tire sizes) I would encourage you to bite the bullet and buy a set of used OEM Z06 18x10.5 wheels(I paid $500 for mine off this forum) and run 295/30's or 305/30's( minor clearancing of the inboard trailing arm brackets.) Kumho V710's are offered in the 305's and Hoosiers are in the 295's. I believe that the only NT-01 is a 315/30, which is too tall and may have an interferance issue with the trailing arms. The square 18" setup will save you money down the road due to tire rotation and longevity as well as greater tire selection and availability(especially with scrubs.) Any brake upgrades will be easy and they offer better brake cooling compared to 17's(my experiance.) The skinny 245's or 255's are not going to be good for anything except for delaminating from the understeer.
All good advice. Of course wide 18" would be better. I just bought the car I'm on a budget. In order to get out on track, I need to install racing brake pads, new rotors and Motul 600 brake fluid, get a Canton baffled racing oil pan and sender to avoid oil starvation, install a 4 point roll bar with harness bar, racing seat and harness. That's all I can afford right now. I'll improve the suspension and get bigger wheels and tires later.
You will not like the narrow front tires. If budget then get another set of junk salad shooter rears from another forum member (probably next to nothing) and run Nittos 555 IIR's in square 275's all around. I'm a fan of the ~$200 tire and will stay with slick shod equipped equipment depending more on driver and is very streetable (~10,000 miles a set).
The oil pan is great idea, but unless you improve the suspension to the degree you are pulling some serious g's...a quart over on the stock pan is pretty safe-been done for years on an LT4...stickies mean the pan is more of a priority.
The safety equipment is always a good idea, but I've been tracking mine for 9 years with OEM 3 point...only a few years ago moved to a racing seat-certainly a nice to have rather than mandatory item.
Do you guys run road courses with significant elevation changes, like Sears Point, Thunderhill and Willow Springs? That's where I'm worried about oil starvation, with the car pitching side to side going up and down hills. It has nothing to do with the tires. That oil pan is good insurance for my tired old LT4.
I don't think it has anything to do with elevation and everything to do with the tires/suspension. I understand on a 'g-out' you can get a higher g force in a corner, but otherwise unsure of why elevation is an issue.
Do you guys run road courses with significant elevation changes, like Sears Point, Thunderhill and Willow Springs? That's where I'm worried about oil starvation, with the car pitching side to side going up and down hills. It has nothing to do with the tires. That oil pan is good insurance for my tired old LT4.
Sears Point, Thunderhill and Laguna Seca for the last 6 years, probably 80+ hours on my LT1; stock pan, 1/2 quart over. I like to use a slightly thicker ester based oil with a little bit of stick rather than a PAO, Redline 10w-40. I would be more concerned about bending a few pushrods when the 13 year old plastic gas pedal mount breaks and binds at WOT than the oil starvation.