I am getting all the codes for time out and failure to find the stop
13, 14, 21, 22 etc some in the 30s too After the 12
2 for each wheel
I put new Bilsteins on it and I got the Time codes for a while until they loosened up and then no codes at all for a while Happy, Happy, Joy, Joy

But then within a month or two BAM all of em

Could the module behind the seat have gone bad
The controllers on top of each shock look fine and do the self test when the key is turned on I see no damage to the gears and the shock sticks above the cup according to specs

HELP PLEASE

The codes are 13, 14, 21, 22, 31, 32, 33, 34
I have tried clearing the codes but the light never went out so maybe I didnt

 

hey 94 ZR1...not trying to hijack...but I figured instead of starting another thread on this topic I would see if we get a "guru" in here that could help us both as mine is pretty similar.

I would love to know how to reset the codes as well. Mines a bit different as it's a 95 (different connector under the dash)
I just replaced all 4 shocks (no codes before but I definitely had a bad shock) and now I have 21,31,32,33,34.
21 (left front time out) the shock and actuator are fine and it's seated fine.
I have a feeling as I was checking the actuators the codes were set as they saw no home position because not being attached to the shocks. To reset codes...FSM says to ground pin 3 (95 car) for 2 seconds three times in a row. What I don't get is it's already grounded the get the codes and all that does is start cycling the codes each time I ground so it's not "clearing" the codes??? It don't say key on,off or engine running. I tried ign on, and off, but not running.
It also feels like the 3 setting don't feel any different as I drive. I assume the system goes into a default mode. I think I read that here somewhere...

Anyone?

 

seems like every other thread is about codes with these code prone gadgets, no race was ever won with them, just kidding, i decide to take it all out, I had more codes than underwear, I gave up.

 

Well...slick...that don't help with brand new Bilsteins under it, and I do like the system and had no problem other than a bad shock. (would not compress and bottomed about 3 inches into it's travel)
I did read something here about new shocks throwing codes for a while as the gear on top of the shaft is a bit stiff when new,thus throwing the "time out" codes.
FSM says the time out DTC's will set when "actuator is moving slower than a specified rate of speed". That could explain 94zr1's 13-22 codes and my 21..but I don't get the out of position codes....other that I triggered them testing the actuators when I was waiting for the new shocks to show up. I just want to reset them but can't seem to figure it out...

 

Allrighty
Cleared the codes and after several hours of messin with it I am down to a code 33
Remove the left rear and the gear is toast

 

Same here....
After messing with is for half the day yesterday, I somehow got the codes to reset...
Drove the car and everything seemed to be working great.
Almost home and the SRC light came on again out of nowhere. I was not changing the selection or anything. Now all I have is code 21 and it seems that the system is stuck in the firm position.
Multiple attempts to reset the codes again and no luck. Got dark and I gave up on it.

Anyone know if when you look into the actuator, the gear itself...are the gears inside the actuator supposed to be somewhat "floating" left/right/up/down in the housing? They seem fine on power up and spin both direction in the start up test, but I noticed looking at the fronts, they seemed a hare off center, so I gently put a small flat head in there and they "slide" all over the place. Are they supposed to be like this to help them center on the shock when installing?

Im hoping my 21 time out is due to the stiffness of the new shock gear???

Never had a SRC light or any codes before replacing the shocks, and the stiffness did change but I definitely had a bad shock. front driver was hopping all over the place...

 

The gear does float arond in there and the 21 is a time out light and should go away after a while but I cant figure why it came on while you were driving and not right away
I would check that actuator it might be bad like mine was

I think I am becoming a FX3 guru by default

 

I recived this e mail form Lynn @ http://www.captainzcnc.com/

The parts are made so they self align. The flat blade screw driver is a fine
tool for the test. One that fits correctly in the actuator gear teeth. But be
care full not to damage the internal actuator gear. When putting radial pressure
on the actuator there should be no give but it will have side to side movement.
If the radial pressure feels spongy you most likely have a broken inner cross.
One other thing to check. make sure that you have the correct spacers on the
shocks inside of the rubber shock mounts. I've known of cases where the shock
protruded to far into the actuator causing it to bind. It could also be a
situation where the shock was tightened over torque specs and actually crushing
the spacer some. If this is suspected a thin washer can be added under the
spacer. I would recommend this for test purposes only and correcting it with a
new spacer.

Thank You
Lynn Zimmerman
Captain Z cnc

I think I might have the nuts on the top too tight. I did find the torque spec afterwards and I'm going to loosen them and re-torque them tonight. I figured the spacer in the bushing would limit this and I did snug them up a bit more than maybe I should have. It made sense to me once he sent this to me.
Those nuts were pretty loose when I took them off. (just the fronts though) I figured someone just did not tighten them, but then I got my hands an a FSM and I cant remember the spec...but it wasn't that tight...and I think it's because of his explanation.

I'm with you...by the time I'm done here I will know the system pretty well. I wish I could clear the darn codes. And its weird I never get the code for losing the speed signal (can't remember the number) but I have cycled my ignition probably 10 times this last time trying to clear codes and I never get that code. Just the 21 now.

I'll post up after I reset the nuts on the top of the shock.

 

So after tearing them all out and re torquing the top nuts at 31 lbs per FSM, put it all back together, it actually cleared codes on first try, big smile...drove car...all working well...almost home and out of nowhere I get the light again. Same thing as before. Code 21...
How can I get a light when I did not touch the ****? Could it be because it's adjusting as speed is changing? If so...why would it take 15 minutes to throw the light?

I again cant get codes to reset again now. This really is ticking me off because I had no codes before replacing the shocks and the system worked fine (other than the bad shock)

I'm wondering if the that shock is just a tad stiff and it will break in and the code will clear.

Anyone know if that could be the case and if so will the light eventually go off IF the system is happy or do I have to reset it manually?

 

So for anyone that cares or that may do a search one day that has a similar problem with their FX3 ride control.

Tonight I decided to swap the 2 front actuators. Simple and takes 5 minutes...actually less...and I cant believe I did not think of it before to see if the code followed the actuator or the shock.

Anyhow, I do the swap, turn the key, Light comes on for the check and then OFF!!!!

So then the real test....a drive since I kept getting the code back after 15 minutes or so of driving.

Drove it for a good half hour and no lite and the ride control seems to be working great again. Test will be when I take it on the Hot Rod Power Tour in a couple weeks, and I do plan on taking it to work tomorrow.

For whatever reason the actuator that was on the left did not like that shock and the it was ok with the other side. Strange.

One thing I can say is it is picky on the torque specs and I can see that overtightened top nuts on the shocks could cause a problem.
Make sure that top nut is 31 lbs and you should have the 4.5mm of gear protruding from the top of the cup on the shock.
I still think the stiffness of the new gears on the new shocks can toss up codes, and maybe the one actuator was just more sensitive to that shocks gear stiffness and the other shock gear was a bit looser...
I don't know. all I know is IT WORKS AGAIN!!!

 

94ZR1....Did your code 33 go away after a new actuator or haven't you yet? Are you having it rebuilt or buying a new one? Rebuilt is the way to go I think. All aluminum parts installed instead of the plastic gears.

 

Yeah I sent it to Dr Z to fix but I couldnt figure out the web site and there is no Phone # to call so its like communicating in the stone age
If this one works then I may send the other 3 as preventive

 

I actually asked him to call me when I first found him and he did. When he did, he gave a contact number as he had to leave me a voice mail. I know I have it somewhere, but don't have it handy. If you e mail him he gets back to you usually within 24 hrs. Ask him for a number to call.