How did you verify that? Dyno, dragstrip or butt-o-meter

 

butt-o-meter! that's awesome!

 

 

TA, Im sure you have experienced all three methods reccomended by you for engine data analysis more than once effectively but generic chips recalibrating won't give the horsepower per dollar expected by many people.

By using the recalibration to your advantage with the right supporting mods I can assure slightly more power than a stock chip, but once again, is it worth the extra work per dollar invested?, probably not. Custom e-prom burning is the best way to go, if you need it.

 

Hypertech chip? You gain 500 rwhp with it, plus you get atleast 50mpg in the city. Stack 2 chips and it's like having a twin turbo setup..

Oops, I had my sarcasm button on, sorry.

 

The crew at PCMforless might take a few extra days but the wait is worth the product. If you have a laptop to record datalogs this will make the process and end results even better.

The hyperchip tecknologie is mostly changing the fan "on" temp.

PCMforless re-ramps those tables necessary to make your car run to its peak.

 

i just put a hypertech chip in my 93 lt1 . It ran great for 2 days then the #$%@ hit the fan! it started taking longer and longer to start,ran like crap almost stalling on acceleration.Nothing but trouble chip PN123382

 

I have an 87 roadster. I was experiencing all sorts of malfunctions and codes, I installed a 160 degree thermostat, installed a manual fused fan switch, purchased a remanded ECM and Hypertech thermo chip for an automatic....total cost, 180 bucks. Anyway you want to spin it, there was increase in hp due to the cooler running temperature, even at an idle on a hot day in traffic you can't make the temp go past 200 degrees. With the open exhaust (all converters removed, as my state does not test exhausts in order to receive a safety inspection sticker), after removing the screens from the MAF sensor and adding a new K&N air filter to allow more air...there is some noticeable TOP END gain.

The only problem experienced was a slight ruff idle problem.....much like that of a high lift cam on the old muscle cars, other than that...I am well pleased, as it corrected the many problems coming from the mandated, factory designed high temperature requirement of making the engine run in the high 230s at operating speeds.

Of course this was designed to meet the BIG BROTHER emission requirements...all GM needed was to run the car at temperatures reaching 240 degrees (the engine can take it but the stock alternator, battery, Electronic Spark Mod in the Distributor, the INTAKE GASKETS due to the cooling and heating, constant EXPANSION unseating the gaskets, of the Aluminum intake....the close prox. of the wiring to run all the whistles and bells...CAN NOT. Left stock the damn thing is nothing but a money pit, requiring constant parts replacements.

Now....COOLER is definitely better all the way around, to hell with the small amount of horse power gain, anytime you can make an engine run cooler you have improved the disposition of your pocket book. I simply got tired of the constant CHECK ENGINE light coming on. A **** poor design, all to simply make the damn thing come into reg's with the emission standards, as the HEAT and three converters are needed to completely burn off the pollutants, its the only way GM could meet the regulations. The engine will always be a dog, the most HP you will ever see from the 5.7 TPI setup is slightly over 300 hp. unless you invest some serious dollars, much like Callaway did.

I began having, problems several months ago, replacing one thing after another. It did not take me long to figure out that HEAT was the culprit. I might be an outlaw.....but the car will go from point A to point B without limping home, or requiring the replacement of some burnt to a crisp part or wire. Its uses more fuel now....but, REMEMBER, carry a spare ECM, mine comes in and out like it has a zipper now.

Hell, its a toy...have some fun, but realize, any of the New Mopars with the Hemi will blow your doors off....up to about 130, then the Vette TOP END takes over, reaching speeds over 145, before I chickened and backed off fearing AIR getting under the car. (AS THAT WAS WHAT MY BROTHER IN LAW, A DEPUTY WHOSE hemi he was testing against the vette estimated the speed to be, as I went by him, of course on a closed section of four lane, at night). Seriously, TOP END is above my desire to find out.

And if there are any Federal Narc's out there......I was just Bull ********. That's my story and I am sticking to it, as the car rolls out of the garage only on occasion.

 

Hypertech power tuning on my relatively stock 94 Corvette was good for a consistent 2-tenths/second off of my 1/4 mile times. All improvement was in the first 60ft. The throttle response is noticably better with the tuning. I recently installed headers and haven't done a comparison of stock vs. Hypertech tuning with the headers.

 

As I said, Total Investment, 180 dollars, to include the purchase of the reman ECM...as the old one was trash, the Chip, and the Fan Switch switch that I made myself and fused. And I always carry a spare ECM with a stock chip....its a simple 5 min. switch should there be a malfunction with the Hypertech unit. I simply left the cover on the passenger side off, its not noticeable unless you are looking to buy her. The 180 bucks cured the problem of having to replace the Alternator, the battery, replacing the intake gasket, spending countless hours trouble shooting some short to ground....or worse yet getting stranded by the failure of the Electronic Spark Control Mod in the Distributor. One is only lucky when they run these cars totally stock if they are not constantly chasing down some malfunction code due to the mandated high temperature requirement set at the factory.