C4 Tech/Performance L98 Corvette and LT1 Corvette Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine

U-Joint Help

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Old May 17, 2009 | 08:12 PM
  #1  
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Default U-Joint Help

Im thinking its time to replace all the u-joints on my 89. Had any luck with a certain make/model/brand? Is replacing the axle shaft ones a pain?

Any advice would be appreciated
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Old May 17, 2009 | 08:42 PM
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Try this. Scorp508 did it. Vader86 made it available.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c4/vad...orpujoint.html
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Old May 17, 2009 | 08:56 PM
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I only use Spicer or NEAPCO U joints. (SOLID not the ones drilled for a grease fitting)
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Old May 17, 2009 | 08:58 PM
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I'll share my recent experiences with you.

Getting the shafts off is a pain. You have to undo enough stuff to free the rear of the knuckle so that it can swing out a little. Then the joints needed some persuasion to part company with the axle stubs after (in my case) 13 years.

The joints in the half shafts were really in there. I used a ball joint press to remove them and when they let loose, they let loose with a bang. I was rather surprised, then, to find that the replacements were rather a loose fit. In fact, I loctite-ed the worst one.

Perhaps I was a little too enthusiastic in cleaning out the bores, so don't overdo that part. It is necessary to get the snap ring grooves nice and clean. I fabricated a tool from a piece of an old circlip which I held with small vicegrips and used to scrape the groove clean. Worked out well.

They say you are supposed to use specially coated joints with the aluminum yokes.

Of course, while you are in there...(haha)
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Old May 17, 2009 | 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by aboatguy
I only use Spicer or NEAPCO U joints. (SOLID not the ones drilled for a grease fitting)
I agree, can't go wrong with spicer.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 06:39 AM
  #6  
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I just did it yesterday. I had the rear apart anyway so it made it easier. I was able to press them out with a table vise. When I installed them, they were bound up a little. I tapped them with a punch and a hammer and that loosened them up so they moved freely. I got my joints from NAPA. They were "Precision" brand but said spicer on them. They are solids. As noted above, stay away from the zerked ones.
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Old May 18, 2009 | 07:51 AM
  #7  
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I got mine from thepartsladi on ebay , they are AC Delco joints and after 2 years have had no problems. Cost for all 6 ( this includes driveshaft) was around $80.00. This might really not make a difference but I marked my shafts to make sure they went in the same way they came out.....WW
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Old May 27, 2011 | 09:48 PM
  #8  
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Originally Posted by jerkyboy
I just did it yesterday. I had the rear apart anyway so it made it easier. I was able to press them out with a table vise. When I installed them, they were bound up a little. I tapped them with a punch and a hammer and that loosened them up so they moved freely. I got my joints from NAPA. They were "Precision" brand but said spicer on them. They are solids. As noted above, stay away from the zerked ones.
Question on this. Is precision the same as spicer? Cause I just ordered precision u joints, but they don't say spicer on then. Is precision just as good? I got the solid non greasable ones
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Old May 28, 2011 | 01:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr.Huxtable
Question on this. Is precision the same as spicer? Cause I just ordered precision u joints, but they don't say spicer on then. Is precision just as good? I got the solid non greasable ones
You have Jim's (421TPI) stroker sbc going into your Vette soon.

You probably will break any U-joint in the rear half shafts within 1 month of playing hard.

Precision is good.

Dana Spicer likely better.

What matters more to me is " Are they made in the USA or not?"

If not made in the USA, I only accept other parts made in Australia, England, Germany, Canada, France.

Anywhere else of parts origin & materials I start swearing out loud.

Thats just me though.

I have bad experiences almost daily with Cheap china made parts I have to install on Customers' cars & trucks.

Sometimes I have to go through 4 or 5 different boxes of brake pads to find a set of the same Part # to fit into a front or rear brake caliper bracket.

the quality of aftermarket parts for daily driver's is really that bad these days.

Often I want to chuck/ throw those cheaply made parts full force across the highway nearby.

BR
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Old May 28, 2011 | 09:20 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by 87 vette 81 big girl
You have Jim's (421TPI) stroker sbc going into your Vette soon.

You probably will break any U-joint in the rear half shafts within 1 month of playing hard.

Precision is good.

Dana Spicer likely better.

What matters more to me is " Are they made in the USA or not?"

If not made in the USA, I only accept other parts made in Australia, England, Germany, Canada, France.

Anywhere else of parts origin & materials I start swearing out loud.

Thats just me though.

I have bad experiences almost daily with Cheap china made parts I have to install on Customers' cars & trucks.

Sometimes I have to go through 4 or 5 different boxes of brake pads to find a set of the same Part # to fit into a front or rear brake caliper bracket.

the quality of aftermarket parts for daily driver's is really that bad these days.

Often I want to chuck/ throw those cheaply made parts full force across the highway nearby.

BR
Yeah i figure i will end up breakin them all anyway. Just figured if I'm gonna get something I'd better get the good ones so they'll hold up alittle longer. The ones i got are made in USA. I know it's a good brand also i just got them though cause this thread mentioned that spicer and precision were the same thing but mine didn't say precision on them
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Old May 28, 2011 | 09:37 AM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Dr.Huxtable
Yeah i figure i will end up breakin them all anyway. Just figured if I'm gonna get something I'd better get the good ones so they'll hold up alittle longer. The ones i got are made in USA. I know it's a good brand also i just got them though cause this thread mentioned that spicer and precision were the same thing but mine didn't say precision on them
Made in the USA.

Don't sweat any more "bullets" than you have to now.

Brian
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Old May 28, 2011 | 11:26 AM
  #12  
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Here is a write-up on C4 universal joints & associated part numbers.
Attached Images
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Old May 29, 2011 | 12:16 PM
  #13  
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The Spicer solid seem to be the best.

I broke my brand new NEAPCO Brute Force UJoints in 6 passes at the race track. Took out an outer stub axel and both halfshafts when they let go.

I bought a used stub axel, 2 used halfshafts and rebuilt the halfshafts with new Spicer UJoints from Denny's Driveshaft.

Last week I made my 25th pass without failure.
Will
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Old May 29, 2011 | 02:08 PM
  #14  
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I don't fully remember how, but I managed to get the halfshafts out without disconnecting anything in the wheel assembly. I also didn't disconnect the C-Beam for the driveshaft. Just throwing it out there, it's possible
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Old May 29, 2011 | 04:37 PM
  #15  
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Follow the instructions in JackDidley's link and you won't go wrong. You might want to have an extra 5/16 socket or two on hand. I broke at least one taking the straps off.
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Old May 29, 2011 | 06:31 PM
  #16  
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Well in my case i have the entire rear end out of the car lol. I actually bought the vette that jmoore79(Josh) used to own(He started this thread back when he had it) and am going completely going through it! I already put the Precisions in so they're gonna have to do for now. They're pretty beefy. Next set I'll get Spicer's
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Old May 29, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #17  
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Precision is made by Federal Mogul in the US of A
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