1986 L98 The only way I can get the car to idle is put all the plugs back one prong on the distributer. i.e. #1 is where #2; #8 is where #1. Then I have to retard the timing almost a prong length so instead of where connector on distributor is perpendicular to engine it is back further to firewall. Then when I put a timing light on it the mark is super high and if I move distributor back to perpendicular to engine the mark moves to where it should be but engine stalls. Won't even sputter when dist is in this position.

I double and tripple checked that dist is set at TDC, and quintuple checked firing order. Unplugging the wire to set timing does not help. What could be wrong?

Does anyone have a better pic of the distributor and what prong is #1 cylinder?

could I have ill adjusted my valves? I tightened till I couldn't roll the rod in my fingers any more, then I put one full additional turn. That seems very tight but thats what I understood from the FSM.

 

pull your dist. take a long screwdriver turn oil pump about 1/8 turn. Drop dist. back in & see if it falls into right place

 

i went thru this stuff on my 85 last year. seems to me that the slot on the oil pump rod needs to be centerline oriented, and the rotor on the distributor is somewhere between the 9:00 or 10:00 position as you drop the distributor in place. as the gears mesh (distributor and cam), the rotor rotates CW to the #1 contact on the distributor. your engine needs to be @ TDC (#1 cylinder) - if your one tooth off on the distributor gear, the distributor won't be orientated correctly. if the distributor is indexed correctly, the side of the distributor that has the electrical connections should be left side perpendicular to the CL of the car. the #1 distributor contact is approximately 10-11 o'clock ALF.

for the valve adjustment, try this method - follow the standard sequence on the valve adjustment order, but use a .0015 feeler gauge (between the valve stem and rocker arm) to adjust the rocker arms. as you tighten the adjusting nut, you'll feel the feeler gauge "grab". at that point, you're approximately .001 from zero lash. now adjust the rocker arm nut an additional 3/4 turn. if you adjusted your valves until you couldn't roll or turn the pushrods, and then adjusted them 1 additional turn, IMHO, you're way too tight!

sounds like you may have a combined distributor indexing/timing/valve adjustment issue here...

hope this helps, and keep us posted...

 

Make sure your vib.damp has not slipped.

 

With all above.
When setting lifter preload, I'm not a fan of the spin the push rod method. Too much room for error due to different levels of friction, grip and hand strength.
For stock rockers, moving the push rod up and down and tightening until the air gap is gone, works for me.
With my stepped guide plates and roller rockers, there is no room for my fingers, so I rock the rocker, back and forth and tighten until the air gap is gone. I find it easy to hear and feel the air gap, others may not.

 

You are probably off one tooth on the dizzy gear
I always use the method of finding TDC # 1 cylinder after replacing distributor, as mentioned the balancer can and will slip on the motor over time so just lining up the marks can be misleading. There are a lot of ways to find TDC # 1. I use a compression gauge and then a small wooden probe in the # 1 spark plug hole. Bump engine with dizzy cap off till you see compression come up on gauge then with a socket on the crank bolt and probe in plug opening turn by hand till you feel the piston reach the full height of its travel with the probe, if you feel it fall away you have gone to far. You are now at TDC # 1, the rotor should be pointing at # 1 plug if it’s not lift the distributor and adjust spindle from oil pump till you can set in this position. Also check harmonic balancer alignment the timing mark should be around zero on the timing tab, if its not chances are your balancer has spun and will need to be replaced however you can paint a mark on the balancer to set a TDC reference point till you replace it. Some distributors have a mark for the # 1 wire but it really doesn’t matter which one you use as long as the rotor is set right pointing at # 1 plug and you then maintain proper firing order with your wires. Always remember to disconnect the EST wire before starting car to set timing

 

thanks, this gives me a lot to work on. I re-adjusted my valves. I was going off a 87 FSM and forgot about my roller rockers on my 87, diff adjustment. It was too late last night to start up the engine (no muffler) so I will get on that distributor tonight.

 

#1 can be anywhere; the engine doesn't know or care where you position the #1. There's no specific position that #1 has to be placed.

What matters are: the length of the spark plug wires, that the rotor tip is correctly positioned, that the wires are routed correctly AND that there is enough clearance to turn the distributor to make any necessary timing adjustment. If installed wrong the distibutor plug protrusion will interfere either with the fireall or the plenum.

If you want it in the stock location, use the screw driver method to turn the oil pump drive shaft so that the distributor and that shaft index with each other.

You set the preload too tightly. You ONLY turn the pushrod until slight resistance is felt, if you choose to use that method. But as already stated the "UP and DOWN" method is much more fool-proof.

Jake

West Point ROCKS!