Pan gasket
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,361
Likes: 0
From: Downriver Mi.
Pan gasket
Did the pan gasket twice in my 85,use the felpro 1 piece gasket,both times leaked at chrome timing cover
,second time I put a thin layer black rtv on both sides of the gasket at the front from corner to corner,Ok now I bought a new non chrome timing cover,I'm going to replace the timing cover and try to do the pan gasket again,Question is what will remove the old rtv from the 1 piece felpro gasket ?I would like to reuse,what do you guys think?New cover is alum.
,second time I put a thin layer black rtv on both sides of the gasket at the front from corner to corner,Ok now I bought a new non chrome timing cover,I'm going to replace the timing cover and try to do the pan gasket again,Question is what will remove the old rtv from the 1 piece felpro gasket ?I would like to reuse,what do you guys think?New cover is alum.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 15
From: backwoods upstate ny
oil pans come in two styles : "fat front rubber" and "thin front rubber"...using 'fat' gasket in thin pan will result in corner leaks, using thin gasket in 'fat pan' will leak all across front.
remove old RTV by fingernail pull + patience.
i put a dab of RTV Ultra in the front seal/block corners before gasket install and second RTV dab between pan and gasket...apply RTV only at 'outsides' of corners so excess 'squeeze' beads will not form inside engine/oil pan, possible bead break-away can stop oil from reaching bearings, etc and lead to total oil pan failure (big metal gizmos falling on road)...rumor- 'greasing' entire length of front rubber is not recommended by some as the RTV supposedly lets the rubber slide out of position.
verify that oil is coming from pan and not front (crank) seal...if front seal was not lubed with grease or heavy engine oil during assembly, the seal may 'burn' due to friction at start-up before normal 'splash' oil gets to seal during first minutes of run time.
not unusual if engine was built with "loose" clearances for high perf to have high crankcase pressure till after 'break-in", high pressure may push oil out front seal or pan corners...typ stops after a few hours of run time.
remove old RTV by fingernail pull + patience.
i put a dab of RTV Ultra in the front seal/block corners before gasket install and second RTV dab between pan and gasket...apply RTV only at 'outsides' of corners so excess 'squeeze' beads will not form inside engine/oil pan, possible bead break-away can stop oil from reaching bearings, etc and lead to total oil pan failure (big metal gizmos falling on road)...rumor- 'greasing' entire length of front rubber is not recommended by some as the RTV supposedly lets the rubber slide out of position.
verify that oil is coming from pan and not front (crank) seal...if front seal was not lubed with grease or heavy engine oil during assembly, the seal may 'burn' due to friction at start-up before normal 'splash' oil gets to seal during first minutes of run time.
not unusual if engine was built with "loose" clearances for high perf to have high crankcase pressure till after 'break-in", high pressure may push oil out front seal or pan corners...typ stops after a few hours of run time.
Last edited by redrose; May 18, 2009 at 10:54 AM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 1,361
Likes: 0
From: Downriver Mi.
oil pans come in two styles : "fat front rubber" and "thin front rubber"...using 'fat' gasket in thin pan will result in corner leaks, using thin gasket in 'fat pan' will leak all across front.
remove old RTV by fingernail pull + patience.
i put a dab of RTV Ultra in the front seal/block corners before gasket install and second RTV dab between pan and gasket...apply RTV only at 'outsides' of corners so excess 'squeeze' beads will not form inside engine/oil pan, possible bead break-away can stop oil from reaching bearings, etc and lead to total oil pan failure (big metal gizmos falling on road)...rumor- 'greasing' entire length of front rubber is not recommended by some as the RTV supposedly lets the rubber slide out of position.
verify that oil is coming from pan and not front (crank) seal...if front seal was not lubed with grease or heavy engine oil during assembly, the seal may 'burn' due to friction at start-up before normal 'splash' oil gets to seal during first minutes of run time.
not unusual if engine was built with "loose" clearances for high perf to have high crankcase pressure till after 'break-in", high pressure may push oil out front seal or pan corners...typ stops after a few hours of run time.
remove old RTV by fingernail pull + patience.
i put a dab of RTV Ultra in the front seal/block corners before gasket install and second RTV dab between pan and gasket...apply RTV only at 'outsides' of corners so excess 'squeeze' beads will not form inside engine/oil pan, possible bead break-away can stop oil from reaching bearings, etc and lead to total oil pan failure (big metal gizmos falling on road)...rumor- 'greasing' entire length of front rubber is not recommended by some as the RTV supposedly lets the rubber slide out of position.
verify that oil is coming from pan and not front (crank) seal...if front seal was not lubed with grease or heavy engine oil during assembly, the seal may 'burn' due to friction at start-up before normal 'splash' oil gets to seal during first minutes of run time.
not unusual if engine was built with "loose" clearances for high perf to have high crankcase pressure till after 'break-in", high pressure may push oil out front seal or pan corners...typ stops after a few hours of run time.
