Blown head gasket
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 462
Likes: 21
From: Kansas City Missouri
Blown head gasket
Well, looks like I blew my head gasket. I have a couple of questions surrounding that.
My wife took the car out. She said that, in hind sight, it showed that it was reading hot from the moment that she took it out, but that it didn't act funny. Most of the way home, she said, it started to loose power and then made a sound and died. When I got there is was reading 300 degrees, so we let it cool down. It barely started and then barely ran while puffing smoke everywhere. I didn't notice any leaks, but then after a couple of tries of trying to get it home, I noticed it leaking water about as fast as I could put it in. It was sitting on a hill and would leak out from above the cadilic converter. I don't know where it would have been coming from, but assume it was from closer to the engine and was just rolling down hill.
1. any chance its not a head gasket
2. does it do it more harm to try and drive it home
3. This is really vague, but what would I be out to do a basic rebuild in the 300 to 325 hp range?
Thanks
My wife took the car out. She said that, in hind sight, it showed that it was reading hot from the moment that she took it out, but that it didn't act funny. Most of the way home, she said, it started to loose power and then made a sound and died. When I got there is was reading 300 degrees, so we let it cool down. It barely started and then barely ran while puffing smoke everywhere. I didn't notice any leaks, but then after a couple of tries of trying to get it home, I noticed it leaking water about as fast as I could put it in. It was sitting on a hill and would leak out from above the cadilic converter. I don't know where it would have been coming from, but assume it was from closer to the engine and was just rolling down hill.
1. any chance its not a head gasket
2. does it do it more harm to try and drive it home
3. This is really vague, but what would I be out to do a basic rebuild in the 300 to 325 hp range?
Thanks
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 3,214
Likes: 101
From: Decatur, Alabama
Well, looks like I blew my head gasket. I have a couple of questions surrounding that.
My wife took the car out. She said that, in hind sight, it showed that it was reading hot from the moment that she took it out, but that it didn't act funny. Most of the way home, she said, it started to loose power and then made a sound and died. When I got there is was reading 300 degrees, so we let it cool down. It barely started and then barely ran while puffing smoke everywhere. I didn't notice any leaks, but then after a couple of tries of trying to get it home, I noticed it leaking water about as fast as I could put it in. It was sitting on a hill and would leak out from above the cadilic converter. I don't know where it would have been coming from, but assume it was from closer to the engine and was just rolling down hill.
1. any chance its not a head gasket
2. does it do it more harm to try and drive it home
3. This is really vague, but what would I be out to do a basic rebuild in the 300 to 325 hp range?
Thanks
My wife took the car out. She said that, in hind sight, it showed that it was reading hot from the moment that she took it out, but that it didn't act funny. Most of the way home, she said, it started to loose power and then made a sound and died. When I got there is was reading 300 degrees, so we let it cool down. It barely started and then barely ran while puffing smoke everywhere. I didn't notice any leaks, but then after a couple of tries of trying to get it home, I noticed it leaking water about as fast as I could put it in. It was sitting on a hill and would leak out from above the cadilic converter. I don't know where it would have been coming from, but assume it was from closer to the engine and was just rolling down hill.
1. any chance its not a head gasket
2. does it do it more harm to try and drive it home
3. This is really vague, but what would I be out to do a basic rebuild in the 300 to 325 hp range?
Thanks
I would NOT drive it.....tow it.
$1000 to rebuild yourself including machine shop (avg. could be more)
$2000 to 2500 basic rebuild at engine shop.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,939
Likes: 1
From: Vero Beach Florida
Driving it can cause more damage
To just do the head gaskets you have about $250.00 in parts engine gasket set, new oil, coolant, RTV, thread sealer, ect, I would change the thermostat also. If you need head work done add machining costs. To do the job yourself figure about 12 to14 hours depending on skill level. The only special tools would be a torque wrench for the heads & intake. I didn’t notice what year you have but if you have aluminum heads check to make sure they didn’t warp.
If its a L98 to get into the 325hp range will require new intake setup, heads, cam & exhaust I would figure 3K on the low side. Depending how much botton end work pistons, rods, crank, & boring, add another 1K to 1.5K at least. Just depends what kind of motor you want and how much work you can do yourself. Good Luck
To just do the head gaskets you have about $250.00 in parts engine gasket set, new oil, coolant, RTV, thread sealer, ect, I would change the thermostat also. If you need head work done add machining costs. To do the job yourself figure about 12 to14 hours depending on skill level. The only special tools would be a torque wrench for the heads & intake. I didn’t notice what year you have but if you have aluminum heads check to make sure they didn’t warp.
If its a L98 to get into the 325hp range will require new intake setup, heads, cam & exhaust I would figure 3K on the low side. Depending how much botton end work pistons, rods, crank, & boring, add another 1K to 1.5K at least. Just depends what kind of motor you want and how much work you can do yourself. Good Luck
Last edited by floridamale; May 20, 2009 at 06:26 AM.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 462
Likes: 21
From: Kansas City Missouri
well, the good thing is that I will do it all myself.......I have a good friend who is a mechanic who will walk me through everything. But, I hear you guys saying that as long as nothing else got screwed up, it could be fairly inexpensive and wouldn't require the full rebuild. Is that correct? The cheaper the better at this point. I have a ton that needs to be done cosmetically, so I would like to get some of that done if I could before I started considering motor upgrades.
She said it was hot before it blew. Do you think that she killed it or do you think that it was already going out since it was hot? Makes me wonder if it was something like a thermostat and since she didn't recognize that it was hot, she then burned it up. Doesn't really matter now, just curious though.
She said it was hot before it blew. Do you think that she killed it or do you think that it was already going out since it was hot? Makes me wonder if it was something like a thermostat and since she didn't recognize that it was hot, she then burned it up. Doesn't really matter now, just curious though.
Last edited by Bensons86; May 20, 2009 at 08:18 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
Gasket could have been weak....or you could have had a coolant leak somewhere else in the system that created air pockets....like you said it doesn't really matter how it got killed.
You'll have to pull the head/heads and have them checked for warpage. If they are warped it could get pricey. Drain the oil and see if it is milky in color for a better indicator. Since you'll have the engine broken down so far already....if the car has high mileage or an abused history you may want to rebuild the short block as well.
You'll have to pull the head/heads and have them checked for warpage. If they are warped it could get pricey. Drain the oil and see if it is milky in color for a better indicator. Since you'll have the engine broken down so far already....if the car has high mileage or an abused history you may want to rebuild the short block as well.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
For the most part I agree 100% with Floridamale, I'm doing my rebuild for the entire top end right now, heads are at the shop for seals/valve job/springs/planing. I'm taking the approach that "I may never be back here again!". So I'm trying to do a lot of cleaning, painting, etc. to make the car look a lot better after 20 yr of grime and crap.
Maybe I go a little slower, but I would allocate a bit more time for the job. One thing I highly recommend is to use ziplock bags and a sharpie and label bag of fasteners as they come off the car. I've got bags of Intake Runner Left, Intake Runner Right, Alternator, etc. Also take many digital photos as you pull parts off and in different angels to help you with assembly. I'm not doing much on performance upgrades just exhaust and 1.6 rockers, so I won't be getting into that 300-325 area, hope I see 265 though with a smooth runner.
Maybe I go a little slower, but I would allocate a bit more time for the job. One thing I highly recommend is to use ziplock bags and a sharpie and label bag of fasteners as they come off the car. I've got bags of Intake Runner Left, Intake Runner Right, Alternator, etc. Also take many digital photos as you pull parts off and in different angels to help you with assembly. I'm not doing much on performance upgrades just exhaust and 1.6 rockers, so I won't be getting into that 300-325 area, hope I see 265 though with a smooth runner.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,759
Likes: 8
Why is it shops charge more per hour to do an headgasket change. I believe the going rate is $90 or more an hour. Where as if they were to change my plugs and wires or something, they would charge $45-$30 an hour.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 5,043
Likes: 8
From: Tampa Florida
Complexity pulling a head on the car = big fun = big $
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 462
Likes: 21
From: Kansas City Missouri
Supposedly 12 years and 26k miles ago this motor was completely rebuilt. My dad said that when he bought it, the gaskets were still shiny and new. I purchased it two years ago after it had sat for a year out in the sun and deteriorated. In light of the low mileage on the current rebuild, do you think I will have to change much? If a perfect world this would have happened after I had saved a bunch of money towards building the engine. As it is, I just got the car back on the road after a leak that took forever to find. Needless to say, I am depressed about it.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,939
Likes: 1
From: Vero Beach Florida
I am a firm believer that letting these cars sit causes more problems then driving them at least a few miles every week. I would think your motor would be alright based on mileage from rebuilt. what type of leak?
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,939
Likes: 1
From: Vero Beach Florida
Most shops charge a flat rate based on what the book calls for. A stated time to do the job times there stated labor rate per hour. Some shops run specials with a reduced rate on tune ups, brakes standard maintenance items because they know the book labor times are inflated on these items and also to get you in the door to up sell you
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 462
Likes: 21
From: Kansas City Missouri
Yeah, I agree. Letting them sit is terrible on them. Believe me, I want nothing more than to drive it.
I had a leak in the overdrive unit pan that I thought was the gasket. I replaced the gasket several times before I finally found an obscure line that was loose. The oil was a mess and was leaking right back onto the exhaust. I thought it was a fire hazard, so I stopped driving it until I could figure it out. I woudl start it about once every couple of weeks or so just to keep everythign lubed. Anyways, no sooner than that is resolved, now I am in for major engine work. I really enjoy the car when it works.
I had a leak in the overdrive unit pan that I thought was the gasket. I replaced the gasket several times before I finally found an obscure line that was loose. The oil was a mess and was leaking right back onto the exhaust. I thought it was a fire hazard, so I stopped driving it until I could figure it out. I woudl start it about once every couple of weeks or so just to keep everythign lubed. Anyways, no sooner than that is resolved, now I am in for major engine work. I really enjoy the car when it works.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,939
Likes: 1
From: Vero Beach Florida
I think I remember your post about that. Once your back on the road your drives well be even sweater knowing you handled the job yourself. Let us know how it goes. Remember to keep tract of where things go as you tear it down make some templates to keep your bolts on and lable vac lines take pics also it will help you
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
If it was pouring out that fast check your hoses , simple stuff first.
If you do pull the heads and it got real hot go ahead and put fresh vavlesprings in it,they more than likely lost a fair amount of tension .
Had a friend who went through this, his springs lost almost 50 of tension due to overheating to a lousy T stat Oring.
Fresh 12k motor, got it up and running again and a few valves kissed the piston (valve float), taking the whole block out from the carnage. Being as yours is probably stock (his wasnt) youll probably be Ok, just a thought.
Springs are cheap .
If you do pull the heads and it got real hot go ahead and put fresh vavlesprings in it,they more than likely lost a fair amount of tension .
Had a friend who went through this, his springs lost almost 50 of tension due to overheating to a lousy T stat Oring.
Fresh 12k motor, got it up and running again and a few valves kissed the piston (valve float), taking the whole block out from the carnage. Being as yours is probably stock (his wasnt) youll probably be Ok, just a thought.
Springs are cheap .