Over the years I've read threads about folks breaking pullers trying to remove the hub off of LT1/LT4s. I've never had a problem using my generic Craftsman puller and a ground down 1/4" extension. This weekend I decided to install my super damper (its been sitting in the garage for a little while) and since I'm waiting for the correct torque converter to arrive from Precision Industries there was no rush so I took a couple of pics (sorry about the quality its hard to get good angles and light without getting the camara dirty.

Tools for pulling hub.
Big adjustable wrench
two 5/8" sockets and two rachets, couple of extensions and a 5/8" combination wrench

Generic puller and assorted bolts.

and cut down 1/4" drive extension



Here's the extension that fits down the crank and fits through the hub



using big A wrench to position hub



Setting up puller after inserting extension



\

Place puller bolt through loop in steering line



Leave adjustable wrench on hub ear IOT hold crank (so it doesnt turn)

Run the puller bolt in until its pretty darn tight and then pull the hub off by tightening the 3 other bolts evenly until the sucker is loose.



Once its out pull skanky seal with seal puller I installed new seal using big socket and my hub install bolt (6" of all thread with some nuts and washers)

My hub was grooved so its been dripping a little since installed however, china walls were dry so the right stuff works.


Installing the new super damper in the car was a little more involved than the old stock damper. (Ive done stock damper a couple of times)

So after installing superdamper hub I pulled the engine,




...and then figured out the hub was already all the way in.
but thats another thread.

 

Nice write up. I used similar tools and method. Here's some pics...

 

What did you pop back in?


I popped in a superdamper....after jerking around the front of the engine I decided to pull it, since it only takes about an hour.



Hopefully the correct converter arrives tomorrow.

Because my mechanically the car is pretty spartan right now.

But the engine is ready to go

 

How did you remove the pulley and dampener completely so that you could get at the hub????

 

Jack the front of the car up and support it so you can get under the car.
Mark the damper so you will know which way to put it back on
remove the three bolts holding the damper to the hub.
Under the car put one end of a 2x4 on the hub and wack it with a hammer a couple times.
using a breaker bar on the hub bolt rotate the engine
using your 2x4 wack the hub a few times
rotate, wack,rotate,wack until the hub comes off

 

So did exactly as you said... I was tapping it to get my aim straight ... and it just fell off. No rotating no nothing... AMAZING! Thanks for your advice

 

You were lucky I soaked mine and taped and turned till my arm fell off. Then I put it back together and left the three bolts a tad loose and fired it up a few times came right off.

 

I have a 1994. Can the hub and damper be pulled off as a unit? Does the damper have to come off first to remove the hub? I was thinking of removing the hub bolt, Inserting a bolt or cut down extension as you've done, then using a claw-type puller inserted in the openings in the damper to remove as a unit? How long is the cut down extension? Did you use an impact wrench or some other means to remove the hub bolt.
I tried to get mine off last night, but gave up for the night after I busted my knuckle open when the breaker bar slipped!! Great write up. Thanks for answering all my questions. This is holding up my cam swap. Gary

 

I would take the dampner off first and mark the hub no key.

 

BUY A LOTTERY TICKET!!!!

Its been years since I did it on my 92, but I sortta recall 6 complete revolutions before mine popped off.