Right Stuff vs Ultimate Gray RTV
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
rte203,
Exactly, its the "assemble parts within 5 minutes while still wet, secure to recommended torque specs" that I don't like too much. In glue terminology this would have a 5 minute "Open Time".
I also build furniture with M/T joinery, laminated pieces, etc. and 5 minutes would be a very small open time. I actually have a specific slow set glue (20 minute open time) for large projects that have many joints and need tons of clamps placed on the piece.
The one thing that makes me lean toward the RTV is the time to make sure the intake gaskets don't slide down with pressure from the intake. I worry that using the Right Stuff and rushing to secure everything leaves little room for error, kinda get it right or else! And from what people have said here if I need to peel it off due to an issue it's real trouble!
Exactly, its the "assemble parts within 5 minutes while still wet, secure to recommended torque specs" that I don't like too much. In glue terminology this would have a 5 minute "Open Time".
I also build furniture with M/T joinery, laminated pieces, etc. and 5 minutes would be a very small open time. I actually have a specific slow set glue (20 minute open time) for large projects that have many joints and need tons of clamps placed on the piece.
The one thing that makes me lean toward the RTV is the time to make sure the intake gaskets don't slide down with pressure from the intake. I worry that using the Right Stuff and rushing to secure everything leaves little room for error, kinda get it right or else! And from what people have said here if I need to peel it off due to an issue it's real trouble!
I also have built many motors with RTV and had no problems.
I personally like the RS. but I think either would work. Its kind of like Sythetic oil vs conventional oil, They will both work, One uses the latest technology and the other is less expensive. Good luck with your choice
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
If you use the right stuff you won't have to do it over!
However, you can save a couple of bucks using stuff that is known to fail at times. Your choice
As some have said the right stuff is tougher than RTV to remove. Actually its not that big of a pain to remove its just that RTV is so simple to remove.
Just my two cents
However, you can save a couple of bucks using stuff that is known to fail at times. Your choice
As some have said the right stuff is tougher than RTV to remove. Actually its not that big of a pain to remove its just that RTV is so simple to remove.
Just my two cents
Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 6,050
Likes: 147
From: Phoenix AZ
2021 C4 of the Year - Modified Finalist
Just remember, the blue sealant or any other sealant that smells like ammonia will eat aluminum. Use the "right stuff" betwen aluminum and any other metal. the ultra gray, the ultra black, the ultra copper, alll good things as well. the blue is for cast iron to cast iron only.
Who knows, you might try to sell ME something that had the blue crap, and I will feel gypped. Alright, I want my money back, you used the blue sealant!!! Sound familiar? well that's my tag line.........
Who knows, you might try to sell ME something that had the blue crap, and I will feel gypped. Alright, I want my money back, you used the blue sealant!!! Sound familiar? well that's my tag line.........
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,783
Likes: 15
From: Northern California
Since, the TPI intake manifold is so time consuming to remove, you only want to do this job once.
The "Right Stuff" will give you peace of mind that the job is done correctly. You already have everything apart so, it will take Less than five minutes to re-install the intake manifold bolts and torque them. Not a big deal at all.
This is a no brainer, use RTV and always wonder if the leaks will happen again or use the Right Stuff and forget about it.
The "Right Stuff" will give you peace of mind that the job is done correctly. You already have everything apart so, it will take Less than five minutes to re-install the intake manifold bolts and torque them. Not a big deal at all.
This is a no brainer, use RTV and always wonder if the leaks will happen again or use the Right Stuff and forget about it.
Last edited by GKK; May 28, 2009 at 10:58 AM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Since, the TPI intake manifold is so time consuming to remove, you only want to do this job once.
The "Right Stuff" will give you peace of mind that the job is done correctly. You already have everything apart so, it will take Less than five minutes to re-install the intake manifold bolts and torque them. Not a big deal at all.
This is a no brainer, use RTV and always wonder if the leaks will happen again or use the Right Stuff and forget about it.
The "Right Stuff" will give you peace of mind that the job is done correctly. You already have everything apart so, it will take Less than five minutes to re-install the intake manifold bolts and torque them. Not a big deal at all.
This is a no brainer, use RTV and always wonder if the leaks will happen again or use the Right Stuff and forget about it.
I realize that a bomb won't explode at 5:01 on this job but I guess I like taking my time to ensure things are going together properly.
I'm pretty certain I'm going to us RS as it is so highly recommended, the one thing I'll try to do is pre-apply the thread treatment on all bolts first so I'm no playing around with that and can concentrate on the intake position and torque sequence.
Can't remember do the intake bolt get sealant or anti-seize?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 34,988
Likes: 515
From: Riverside County Southern California
Co-winner 2020 C4 of the Year - Modified
2018 Corvette of Year Finalist
2017 C4 of Year
2016 C7 of Year Finalist
St. Jude Donor '09 thru '20
I used gray RTV in my LT4's intake manifold and after several 6,000 RPM it is holding.
Corvette Stories
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Corvettes Ever Sold on Bring A Trailer
Brett Foote
10 Things Every Corvette Owner Needs (2026 Edition)
Michael S. Palmer
8 Most "Only Corvette Owners Understand" Quirks and Problems
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Reasons the C6 Z06 is Still A Performance Benchmark After 20 Years
Joe Kucinski
How Much Horsepower Every Corvette Engine "LOST" in 1972
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 DOs and DON'Ts for Protecting Your Convertible Top!
Michael S. Palmer
Top 10 Most Explosive Corvettes Ever Made: Power-to-Weight Ratio Ranked!
Joe Kucinski
150 hp to 1,250 hp: Every Corvette Generation Compared by the Specs That Matter
Joe Kucinski
8 Coolest Corvette Pace Cars (and Replicas) of All Time
Verdad Gallardo
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
I guess it is my deliberate manner in working on cars but it seems that 5 minutes is a rush to put on RS, then position the intake PROPERLY, then put thread sealant or anti-sieze on all bolts as you run them in then torque by the sequence.
I realize that a bomb won't explode at 5:01 on this job but I guess I like taking my time to ensure things are going together properly.
I'm pretty certain I'm going to us RS as it is so highly recommended, the one thing I'll try to do is pre-apply the thread treatment on all bolts first so I'm no playing around with that and can concentrate on the intake position and torque sequence.
Can't remember do the intake bolt get sealant or anti-seize?
I realize that a bomb won't explode at 5:01 on this job but I guess I like taking my time to ensure things are going together properly.
I'm pretty certain I'm going to us RS as it is so highly recommended, the one thing I'll try to do is pre-apply the thread treatment on all bolts first so I'm no playing around with that and can concentrate on the intake position and torque sequence.
Can't remember do the intake bolt get sealant or anti-seize?
Aluminum Or steel heads?
I think im correct in saying, Someone feel free to correct me, I have steel head so i used lock tight on my bolts, But steel bolts into aluminum may call for anti sieze, I not sure....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
However, the right stuff is not dry in five minutes; however, you can use it in about that amount of time.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 12,518
Likes: 19
Coat the threads with any sealer, and put a thin layer of lube, just under the head of the bolt, where it contacts the manifold. My preference is Permatex Liquid Teflon. I seal the manifold with Permatex Ultra Copper. I tried The Right Stuff 1 time on valve covers. I ruined them trying to get them off the car. That stuff works too well, in my opinion.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 686
Likes: 4
From: Austin Texas
Expensive and a PITA. Engines have been fine long before the right stuff was created.My guess is that, by the way its packaged, that its a polyurethane or polyurea of some sort. Personally, I don't think thats necessary. I sealed lots of motors with Blue and never had a leak.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
OK, enough whining!!!! 
RTV ............. Right Stuff ......... Chewing Gum!
It went better than I thought I used the Right Stuff, not crazy about the cheese wiz type can but I've got a nice even squeze around all side that I can see, l'et;s hope for the best.
RTV ............. Right Stuff ......... Chewing Gum!It went better than I thought I used the Right Stuff, not crazy about the cheese wiz type can but I've got a nice even squeze around all side that I can see, l'et;s hope for the best.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 240
Likes: 0
From: Peachtree City GA
Is that where your distibutor Sits with the wires from the mod coming out to the front, when I put mine in the wires exit in the back.... Close to the firewall, I wonder if mine is in wrong.....
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,035
Likes: 0
From: Atlanta Ga
Also there are tow set of wire out of the distributor, the one in from here has only two wires I think, there is one in bank with a much large plug and more wires.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 11,672
Likes: 20
From: Lake Wylie SC
I know you have the intake on and sealled already, but I thought I'd drop my opinion in here. I used GM's Assembly adhesive Part # 12346141 to seal the "China walls." No leaks here at all after 6 years. I think the real problem comes from setting the intake. If you have to slide it around to fit, then you'll probably spring a leak,
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 10,641
Likes: 13
From: Slidell Louisiana
Here's a reason to use the right stuff
A nice thick bead of some sort of RTV (First time I pulled intake on this car only owned it a year). Someone put new intake gaskets and rtv'd the china walls however, since I've owned the car there has been a steady drip of oil on my driveway and parking spot at work
With the vette finally complete I decided to fix leak on SS today. I bought an intake kit and timing cover kit (timing kit is cheapest way to get front hub seal, optiseal and water pump gaskets )
I did a little looking and it seemed that oil was coming from above OPTI so I checked closer and its leaking from intake.
I pulled intake and there is a think bead of oil covered rtv.
The rtv users are correct it is easy to remove from china walls.
However, I'd rather have deal with the right stuff sticking block and intake than having to fix an intake oil leak.
MIke
A nice thick bead of some sort of RTV (First time I pulled intake on this car only owned it a year). Someone put new intake gaskets and rtv'd the china walls however, since I've owned the car there has been a steady drip of oil on my driveway and parking spot at work
With the vette finally complete I decided to fix leak on SS today. I bought an intake kit and timing cover kit (timing kit is cheapest way to get front hub seal, optiseal and water pump gaskets )
I did a little looking and it seemed that oil was coming from above OPTI so I checked closer and its leaking from intake.
I pulled intake and there is a think bead of oil covered rtv.
The rtv users are correct it is easy to remove from china walls.
However, I'd rather have deal with the right stuff sticking block and intake than having to fix an intake oil leak.
MIke