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OK, many people have talked about using the Right Stuff for the intake gaskets back and front along the block.
Is the material really that much better?
I know RTV must be allowed to cure but as I'm doing the build and not rushing I have plenty of time to allow for curing. Is this just a time issue that make it better?
I want to use what is going to do a good job but I don't have a time restriction?????
been using the 'ultra grey' for a few years now...'0' leaks...better than original rtv's of back/day...'ultra blue' also works very good, but 'ult grey' color matches aluminum and looks neater...can't see paying more for the other stuff when the 'ult grey' is 100% satisfactory...the cheaper $ permtx NON-ultra rtv has leaked when oil/gas contacted.
I've used both without problems on intake manifolds.
The right stuff makes disassembly more difficult, which probably means it is a superior sealant. I really don't think you'll have a problem with either if applied/used properly.
I'm guessing that the Right Stuff might be a little easier to use with less chance for error, but with proper care the Ultimate is probably just fine. I guess I've got to figure out which I think I need.
From: Prather, California -1990 ZR-1 White/Flame Red- -SOLD!!-
I used the ultra gray on the china walls on my LT1 intake, but it leaks from the front and back. Though, I might have tightened the bolts down too soon and squeezed too much out the side.
Since I already have the front of the engine torn apart to replace the opti, I am going to reseal the intake manifold. I do not want to have to take it apart again anytime soon so I ponied up the $$ ($24 at NAPA for a 7oz. can, says it will make 14-18 gaskets) and bought 'The Right Stuff', since it is so highly recommended here.
Used the grey and black for years and was pretty much happy with it but once you use the Right Stuff thats all youll buy, its that good.
Try removing it from the china walls.
For giggles a couple of builds ago I lifted a LT1 (on engine stand using my Happy Hooker without any bolts in the intake and the "Right Stuff" along held the engine up.
(was during a disassembly and engine stand was only lifted a couple of inches and left hanging for a while)
For giggles a couple of builds ago I lifted a LT1 (on engine stand using my Happy Hooker without any bolts in the intake and the "Right Stuff" along held the engine up.
(was during a disassembly and engine stand was only lifted a couple of inches and left hanging for a while)
I beleive it, had one hell of a time getting the last intake off I used that stuff on, kept looking for another bolt I mighta missed.
For giggles a couple of builds ago I lifted a LT1 (on engine stand using my Happy Hooker without any bolts in the intake and the "Right Stuff" along held the engine up.
good reason to avoid use of that...thanx for heads up.
I used the ultra gray on the china walls on my LT1 intake, but it leaks from the front and back. Though, I might have tightened the bolts down too soon and squeezed too much out the side.
'assembled too soon' is a very common 'leak maker' with RTV...RTV pre-set time of 10-20 MINUTES before assembly is mandatory...full strength not until 12-24 HOURS fully exposed to atmosphere, longer if it can't breathe...preset and cure time varies with both temp and humidity, less of either needs more time.
Guess that settles in. Theres always someone who will choose curtain A, and someone who will choose curtian B. So in the end it remains personal prefrence weighing, positive and negetives of both products: Good Luck
The RTV definitely need the 10-20 minute cure time that is a fact, and I'm OK with that, I like to be very deliberate with the assembly, I'm not in a rush.
But, that makes me wonder, if using the Right Stuff, is the window of time to place the intake and torque to spec reduced! I other words do I need to worry starting quickly after it is applied and moving quickly with the bolts?
Sorry I know this isn't brain surgery........... it's just more important :-)
The RTV definitely need the 10-20 minute cure time that is a fact, and I'm OK with that, I like to be very deliberate with the assembly, I'm not in a rush.
But, that makes me wonder, if using the Right Stuff, is the window of time to place the intake and torque to spec reduced! I other words do I need to worry starting quickly after it is applied and moving quickly with the bolts?
Sorry I know this isn't brain surgery........... it's just more important :-)
The right stuff has a smaller window, I made sure i was ready with everthing when i started. here:
Exactly, its the "assemble parts within 5 minutes while still wet, secure to recommended torque specs" that I don't like too much. In glue terminology this would have a 5 minute "Open Time".
I also build furniture with M/T joinery, laminated pieces, etc. and 5 minutes would be a very small open time. I actually have a specific slow set glue (20 minute open time) for large projects that have many joints and need tons of clamps placed on the piece.
The one thing that makes me lean toward the RTV is the time to make sure the intake gaskets don't slide down with pressure from the intake. I worry that using the Right Stuff and rushing to secure everything leaves little room for error, kinda get it right or else! And from what people have said here if I need to peel it off due to an issue it's real trouble!