I'm putting an LT1 motor together but having uncertainties on how it should be balanced. I want to use a manual trans and would like to run a dual mass flywheel, but availability questions may make that not an option. I could do internal balance, and go with zero balance damper and flywheel, right ? Then later down the road whatever I may need to change on the front or rear end of the crank should be simple to just make sure its zero-balanced, right ? Yet some flywheels come with a cast-in counterweight, which would need to be milled off, if that can be done. I'm a little confused on how to proceed and what the best balancing situation might be that will be the least hassle-free down the road. Anyone have any ideas on what they would do if building a motor regarding balancing issues ? thanks alot.

 

I went with a zero balance, it's better for the bearings.

The single mass flywheel on my dual disk clutch has removable weights.

All I have to do is leave them off.

 

Thanks buddy. Hey, if you get a chance and are inclined, I'd be grateful to receive info about which clutch and flywheel you're running, unless they wouldn't be applicable to my 93 vette.

I've heard internal balancing costs more but I like the idea better than external.

Crap, I bought a set of rods GM #14011082 and noticed today that they weigh 137 grams more each than a stock LT1 gen. 2, PM rod. Are lighter rods always a better choice ? The 14011082's look pretty darn beefy though, they have a bowtie on them and come with ARP capscrews. I bet they can take a beating but am wondering whether the added mass is much of a downside. They're forged 4340, vacuum degassed during production, profiled beams and shot peened. Sounded good to me.

http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/perform...CATID=847.html


"Heavy-duty Bow Tie connecting rods are engineered to withstand the stress and strain of racing. These premium quality rods are forged from tough 4340 steel which has been vacuum degassed to eliminate impurities. Dedicated forging dies are used for the two different center-to-center lengths to minimize rod weight. Fatigue tests have shown that Bow Tie rods can endure more than 10 million cycles at racing loads without failure! Unlike the bolts and nuts used in production connecting rods, heavy-duty Bow Tie rods are equipped with aircraft quality 7/16" bolts which thread directly into the rod fork. Alignment sleeves positively locate the cap on the rod. Bow Tie rods are machined for pressed wrist pins, and are shotpeened to enhance their durability.
Technical Notes: Bow Tie rods are designed for 2.10" rod journals. The crankshaft must be rebalanced when using Bow Tie rods due to the increase in reciprocating and rotating weight. Bow Tie rod bolts should be lubricated with 30 weight oil and torqued to 70 ft./lb.; recommended bolt stretch is .005-.006". Heavy-duty pistons are available with compression heights to match 5.70" and 6.00" long Bow Tie rods; see the piston section for part numbers. Replacement bolts, washers, and sleeves are also available; see listings ."